Peter_Puget Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Never counted the mountain routes but all but 2 or 3 of the crag routes. I say 2 or 3 because I can't remember if I actually climbed one of the Vantage routes. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted September 27, 2002 Author Share Posted September 27, 2002 vol 1;33, vol 2:7(alpine) Kearny:23, 50 classics:12 It seems Kearney did all of his selected personally, is that biased then? [ 09-27-2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: vol 1;33, vol 2:7(alpine) Kearny:23, 50 classics:12 It seems Kearney did all of his selected personally, is that biased then? I just got the book for my birthday and, thanks to on-going unemployment, have read it cover to cover. I dont think it's based, just a different take on the climbs- I think the personal narrative adds to the route description. All I can say is that the Tuning Fork on Mt. Bardean and the S Face of Inspiration have been added at the top of my list- right after Challenger. Those look like amazing lines. Now I just need to get the set of Alpine Balls I put on my Christmas wish list. I don't know if Jim or Peter did all the ones in Select Vol. 1 and 2- I suspect more in Vol. 1 since more of the photo credits appear to be Jim's. I've done a bunch of the climbs in Vol. 1 and Vol. 2, and have generally found those in Vol. 1 to be of better quality. Anyone else have the same experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 The Kearney route descriptions are in the form ofMini TRs and leave something to be desired if you are looking for detailed beta. Instead of saying "Pitch 1, 150 feet, take 3 3 inch cams for the belay" Kearney beta is "We got moving fast once we drank coffee. The bottom 6 pitches went quickly cause my ex-wife was such a trouper" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Does the Haystack on Mt. Si count as a classic? I guess I'm not experienced because all my relatives and students ask me if I'v e ever climbed the REI pinnacle. I haven't. Ok 89 of Nelsen climbs done 44 in book one 45 in book two I don't own the Kearney Book Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 I sent the Tooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 I did Sahale from all of routes in Nelsons guide, oh yeah. Seriously, I've done 7 in volume 1 and 5 in volume 2 all this summer. Is the Kearny guide the "Classic climbs in the Northwest" book? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 The Kearney Book, "Classic Climbs in the Northwest" is by far the best of the three books. The reason it is best is exactly because it is biased. Kearney did all the routes in his book. Of the many many hundreds of routes he's done in the Northwest and the many first ascents he's been involved in, these are the routes he's come up with. He also has an excellent feel for what makes up a good route. Not only that, but he defines the terms in his introduction as to what makes a route good. Potterfield and Nelson don't do this. Recently, Kearney was complimented on his book. His response was that it's good because it has thirty years of climbing in the Northwest behind it. As far as I'm concerned the best of the three tick lists is the Kearney list. Jason [ 09-27-2002, 09:57 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 I don't own the Kearney book but I spent about an hour going though it at marmot. It is a nice book. Nice perspective on a lifetime of experience. but....... In my humble opinion, the Nelson Volume 1 has all the gems and is THE definitive Cascade true tick list. 20 years from now we will still be looking at the grouping of Jim's volume 1. Even though it doesn' have crag climbs it is still awesome. Best crag routes i've done in Wa 1.Outer space 2. Sting-ROTC 3. Dagobah System (Midnight) 4. Technorigine Little Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Funny you should ask- back when I was more ambitious, I made a goal to do all of the climbs in volume one (then he came out with a volume two ) as of now, I've done 18. I've assesed Tooth And Claw and Eve Dearborne Memorial routes as the ones I may never get done, because I'll probably always lack the technical skills and balls for them. As for the 51st classic of north america route (put up by myself and my clan of hooligans) that Mr Caveman mentioned, I failed to claim the first ascent- I couldn't top out without holds breaking off in my hands! [ 09-28-2002, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: Charlie ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 What are these books you guys are talking about? Where do I get one? I only have these old green, red and brown books by some guy named Booky or something like that. They're so old, Mt. St. Helens still has her top on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by David Parker: Mt. St. Helens still has her top on. She's quite the easy skank now that she's whipped it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry_Pi Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Me climb 89.5, anyone do better? If not I the man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tread_tramp Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 18 from Vol. 1 and 9 from vol. 2. Don't know about Kearny's list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted September 29, 2002 Author Share Posted September 29, 2002 Good job on the sending of the Tooth, 51st classic route,Cavey. Is there a cc.tr on it ? Good job Eric8 on this season! The Kearny has the best in my opinion too, though the one I mess myself on is the B.C. Select ! Vol1 is better than vol2. What about a winter select? I guess anytime you can get up anything in winter here is select!! [ 09-28-2002, 06:29 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 Kloke has a winter clims book.....very, very, very hard to find but has some good winter routes on it. See if you can locate one. If not, go do Mount Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 I love Mt Si! It's never too early to wear plastic boots on Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 Yeah, if you're thinking of doing the E Butt on Middle Cathedral in the Valley, go left and do the DNB instead. Longer, a little harder, more commiting and a lot less crowded. Is that "climber's left" or "skier's left"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: Yeah, if you're thinking of doing the E Butt on Middle Cathedral in the Valley, go left and do the DNB instead. Longer, a little harder, more commiting and a lot less crowded. Is that "climber's left" or "skier's left"? I meant to say,"...go right and do the DNB..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 30, 2002 Share Posted September 30, 2002 My Thoughts- The Beckey books have all the classics. But my opinion is that the Nelson\Potterfield books are the standard for select climbs guides. It is my honest thought that the McClane select is not as well written in several forms. IE often does not mention rack size ( I like Big Racks (*)(*) ) or other equipment that may be desired or useful in certain situations, plus topos are never detailed. Some might argue this removes all the aspects of climbing adventure but even beckey books have this info.. Who cares not me. Also the Nelson\Potterfield books rate the approaches which I can find useful for gauging times and strenousness as well. Another note is that the climbs in these books offer best or optimum season times for the routes. If I was from out of the area and visiting this could be crucial. The topos are always great but errors are due to be found.... The Kearney book does not have crag routes or waterfall ice climbing etc. Nothing against the dude. There are key clues and info sometimes not well defined but useful I can find from reading their books. I read the old Sierra Classics and another Sierra Book I have and it doesn't even compare to any of the above mentioned books. My chestbeater numbers are - Vol1 Nelson Potterfield 22 Vol2 Nelson Potterfield 23 Kearney ?? Buddy never gave my book back 50 Classics - 4 I think [ 09-30-2002, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 30, 2002 Share Posted September 30, 2002 I think Chris MacNamara is really setting the standard for the "super" beta on classic climbs these days. Maybe someday he'll get sick of Cali and move up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted September 30, 2002 Author Share Posted September 30, 2002 Colin told me of a dude that as done all but 3 of the vol1. I was stricly raveing about the McLane book for its content. I cant believe all the sweet real estate up there,eh!People like Dru have it made! Its cool to have an unknown horizon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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