ChrisT Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 No kidding! It's fun to have a little once in awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Hells canyon should be looking pretty good right now as the temps cool and the rattlers go to bed for the winter. Wolf rock is worth the trip, check out the SW climbers site and it will get you started with more info than most people had when they first went there (I found a bag of nugs there the day after smith was on fire in the previous decade), some one still needs go go check out the (chech route or some such of a bastard name) of some multipitch rock route steve house put up in the Eagle Caps up out of Enterprise. I think it is in a bowl and on a buttress up the ridge and to the south of the entrance to the hurricane creek valley. I know you can see it driving into enterprise. There is a wright up in an old Climbing mag about it. What about those super secret madras hand cracks? Chicketty check the shizle to the pin bash hooking tie off the rusty bolt whizzle on that big old phalus down by Prineville. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Good call Shapp, the only serious choss you missed may be the Honeycombs. (Perhaps it was intentional) - long assed drive for rock that was like Smith before Smith was Smith. IE, you have to clean the shit off the route yourself. Â Danny Gates or Steve Strauch told me (see what a name dropping bastard I am) that the rock on Superslab was very very loose, and it rained down with every step when they first went up there: now look at it. Â Hope your leg getting better Shapp (just in time for the winter rains?) Â Iain and Nolse, not sure why the anger, hey dudes, it's OK, cleansing breaths and calmness ....................................serenity........serenity....... Â And what's worse? Someone who posts useful information in a supposed "arrogant" way or someone who posts random one liners related to nothing and inside jokes that maybe 4 people on the board get? Â It's not an either or: the board needs both, everyone likes Iain's posts, he make us laugh and sometimes they are very informative as well: just look at the cat spinning the disks on his avatar-hmmmm, don't know if thats specificially informative...hmmmmm. Hey, don't look at mine, we're not talking about that right here. POLEEEAAASSSSSEEE! Â I don't believe I've seen Iain pissed yet, so this is pretty serious:- always enjoy his restraint and humor, proving once again that if you hang around here long enough, you get contact internet anger...........apparently. Â Â Just a reminder that some of the best climbing in Oregon happens to be in Washington. See all the Beacon posts the Oregon cascades section if you doubt this. Â I'm surprised the Wahingtonions take it lying down: I think it because there's so much good shit up there, they didn't see the hijacking coming, or don't care just because they have so much and are being gracious to us impoverished Oregonians. Â Shapp, if your foot is better-would you just go do that cliff by Enterprise and tell us about it? Â Better take Ireno with you or you'll never hear the end of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 I'll spice it up...been putting up route after route at Area-51. It won't be too much longer before the cat slips out of the bag a little further. don't forget the menagerie for a great fall adventure, sits above the valley fog up in the sunshine. So i've been traveling from Washington to climb in Oregon, not to bring up a sore subject. peace and climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 I'll spice it up...been putting up route after route at Area-51. It won't be too much longer before the cat slips out of the bag a little further. don't forget the menagerie for a great fall adventure, sits above the valley fog up in the sunshine. So i've been traveling from Washington to climb in Oregon, not to bring up a sore subject. peace and climb hi retired climbing is FUN...go climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Wait a sec if Iain is really DFA then is NOLSe claiming to climb harder than DFA? NOLSe have you sent Churning without the chipped pockets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IChing Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Kent Benesch, Menagerie, 08/04. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 BillCoe, I am not sure what you are talking about choss? Hells canyon is not choss, wolf rock is not too chossy, I think the S. House route is like wise fairly choss free from the F.A. description, Madras hand cracks = no choss, there are 2 or 3 loose holds on the Phalus though. Was working in oregon last week, caught a nice 20 chinook near elkton, also tested out my ankle on my favorite hand crack at skinners while I was down that way. 9:00am and no one was there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 the photo captioned astro chicken is incorrect. Kent is on The Beak 11a, Rooster rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Kent Benesch, Menagerie, 08/04. Â Â hey...is Kent climbing again?? That's awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnmedic Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 Thats what im woundering,the thing here is all my bro's got married got tons of kids and retired to the lazy boy growin a gut. Short of putting a gun to their heads ya jus cant get'em away from the old milwalkee and the tv... Pretty sad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted October 25, 2004 Share Posted October 25, 2004 Certainly not super secret or even that interesting, but a couple of us cruised the standard route on 3FJ on 10/15. Nice Sunny day for the 3 of us and the hunters. Got rained out of Smith on Sunday 10/16. It looked like it snowed down to about 5K or so the night before, so anyone still thinking about Cascades choss can count on some white stuff on the routes now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vert Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 here is a little help maybe for those of you who need some new ground to go at. the weather in hells canyon has been great, even if it is in idaho it is not choss! when you get there, get outta the car, fill your lungs with good air; (or any kind you want!) look for the cleanest rock, there is lots of it, then go there and clip up the bolts. this place is home to some of the best climbing anywhere the PNW has to offer and the south faces offer great winter climbing. sorry no guide book- the cliff above enterprise is called benthos. interesting history: check out the old thomas guide to oregon rock. dave jensen was prolific on early lines at smith and beacon. he is also responsible for pioneering benthos as well as the matterhorn (marble mountain) up hurracaine creek. on benthos,he did the ice gully wi-2/3 and the main prow 5.7 a1 700'. it is good granite, a lot like stuarts complete north ridge but without the soft middle. this line now goes free with an athletic 10c layback at 9000' near the summit. other routes are the kozak route, named after the slovenian climbing club of which steve h. is a member, we put this route up in 89, the west face 400', the north face 5.11 a1 900', and cutty sark, 10b 500' up the eastern prow. its obviously out now but try next june. other crags around here are also feeling the winter hit but the water ice is forming in the elkhorns. if its good yet i will let you all know next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Hilarious. I think it's now crystal clear where the insecurities lie. Â Yes indeed. Crystal clear. Â Shine on, you crazy diamond. Or pot, in this case. Black pot, that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 such a fresh take on the go-to c.c. cliche Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Vert da man, Â What is the best approach for the benthos? I new that House route was some kind of eastern block shit, I was thinking the Chech route or some such thing, but really called the Kozak route. For 70% of the population that lives within 20 miles of the Willamette River (yes this is a real statisitic recently derived by a water quality study on the Willamette) it would be cool if you posted a little more history of that particular area and the routes on Benthos, I for one would be interested to know more than the bits I all ready know. Also you have any info on Dunns bluff (North of moss springs, that faces east over the minam?) I did a couple routes there a several years ago and found a few pieces of fixed gear, but have never heard anyone talk about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Is the Benthos of which you boys speak the granite behemoth in the Wallowas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Eagle Caps specifically Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 I've climbed a route that goes directly up the ridge, although we got shut down by the final pitch which I imagine is the one A1 pitch vert refers to. It was pretty wet when we were on it. I hope to get back up there real soon. This peak is almost literally in TGs backyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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