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yakimuchacho

Bad form/style or accepted technique?

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its bad style to grab draws, chains, or haul yourself up with the rope. but its worse style to fall and get hurt! don't sacrifice safety for "style".

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It's better to take a clean fall on a sport climb, than to give up and grab a draw.

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but it's really dumb to get hurt for the season on a clip-up and have to tell people yeah I got evac'd from bbq the pope for the rest of your life

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I've seen people carrying beers in their chalkbags while climbing. Is this accepted technique? Is it aid to use a chalkbag or should you have to keep the beer in your hands at all times to claim the "amber point"?

 

Inquiring minds want to know. confused.gif

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Jesus!

 

It's all good. Some of you guys are so uptight hellno3d.gif

 

For chrissakes, go out and pull on something besides your pud... yellaf.gif

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I think you have to have at least 3 avatars just for trolling in order to claim a successful Amber point.

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the climber who has the most fun is the best at clipping the chains

 

The climber who clips his nipple chains while being spanked by Muffy is the one having the most fun

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Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

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Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

 

All joking aside, this is very well put.

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Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

 

All joking aside, this is very well put.

 

Is it, though? Yeah, safety is important, but isn't it kind of shortsighted and/or condescending to suggest that one cannot learn to be safe AND to climb in a generally legit style? Are safety and mode of ascent mutually exclusive considerations?

 

Focusing solely on one aspect of one's chosen style of climbing, at any level, is going to be pretty limiting.

 

Balance, friends; the middle ground.

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No, Reinhold was more like "If you aren't suffering frostbite amputations and falling off your castle, you aren't trying, ja, punter!"

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"If you aren't suffering from chronic oxygen deprivation hallucinations and chasing nonexistent Yetis through the Himalayas - you aren't trying."

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special you crack me up. yellaf.gif

in regards to your previous post what happens if you send a pitch after you rode a bike the day before and you hitchhiked to the crag today, suckered someone for a belay, used two different shoes, ran outa of chalk at the crux, zclipped once, skipped 3bolts at the end, took your shirt off after sending the crux and never saw the climb except in a movie and in all the mags??

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edited to remove spray. Forgot I was in Newbies

My bad.

Edited by Squid

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Yeah, safety is important, but isn't it kind of shortsighted and/or condescending to suggest that one cannot learn to be safe AND to climb in a generally legit style? Are safety and mode of ascent mutually exclusive considerations?

 

Focusing solely on one aspect of one's chosen style of climbing, at any level, is going to be pretty limiting.

 

Balance, friends; the middle ground.

Safety and mode of ascent aren't necessarily exclusive of each other, but the first should take precedence over the second. It takes experience to develop good style.

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Rather - you should practice safe climbing by climbing on things within your ability level, not by flailing and aiding your way up things you can only climb safely by climbing in poor style.

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in other words, set your sights low and consistently hit your mark...

Edited by RuMR

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In other words,

 

I have been sport climbing (some 5.10) for the last month and have noticed many climbers holding/hanging on their quickdraw (already clipped to a hanger) when they are clipping in the rope with their other hand. In other words, these climbers are not holding onto the rock, they are hanging from their gear. Is this common practice? I have been doing all of my clips "one handed" without the assistance of hanging onto the clipped draw. I could climb a lot harder routes if I hung onto a clipped sling while clipping the rope with my other hand, but style and good form must prevail.

 

What he said.

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