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Posted

 

I've seen people carrying beers in their chalkbags while climbing. Is this accepted technique? Is it aid to use a chalkbag or should you have to keep the beer in your hands at all times to claim the "amber point"?

 

Inquiring minds want to know. confused.gif

Posted

Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

Posted
Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

 

All joking aside, this is very well put.

Posted
Since this is a thread for newbies, I will answer accordingly and seriously.

Technically, using anything but the rock to stand on or pull on is aid. But the goal is not to climb in the best style when you are a newbie. The goal should be to survive unhurt and move over as much rock as possible in the process. Style will come with experience. The most dangerous time of your climbing carreer will be when you are learning to lead. This is especially true if you are trad climbing. Do what you need to to remain calm and in control. Use that calmness to focus on being safe. Style will come in good time.

 

All joking aside, this is very well put.

 

Is it, though? Yeah, safety is important, but isn't it kind of shortsighted and/or condescending to suggest that one cannot learn to be safe AND to climb in a generally legit style? Are safety and mode of ascent mutually exclusive considerations?

 

Focusing solely on one aspect of one's chosen style of climbing, at any level, is going to be pretty limiting.

 

Balance, friends; the middle ground.

Posted

special you crack me up. yellaf.gif

in regards to your previous post what happens if you send a pitch after you rode a bike the day before and you hitchhiked to the crag today, suckered someone for a belay, used two different shoes, ran outa of chalk at the crux, zclipped once, skipped 3bolts at the end, took your shirt off after sending the crux and never saw the climb except in a movie and in all the mags??

Posted

Yeah, safety is important, but isn't it kind of shortsighted and/or condescending to suggest that one cannot learn to be safe AND to climb in a generally legit style? Are safety and mode of ascent mutually exclusive considerations?

 

Focusing solely on one aspect of one's chosen style of climbing, at any level, is going to be pretty limiting.

 

Balance, friends; the middle ground.

Safety and mode of ascent aren't necessarily exclusive of each other, but the first should take precedence over the second. It takes experience to develop good style.
Posted

Rather - you should practice safe climbing by climbing on things within your ability level, not by flailing and aiding your way up things you can only climb safely by climbing in poor style.

Posted

In other words,

 

I have been sport climbing (some 5.10) for the last month and have noticed many climbers holding/hanging on their quickdraw (already clipped to a hanger) when they are clipping in the rope with their other hand. In other words, these climbers are not holding onto the rock, they are hanging from their gear. Is this common practice? I have been doing all of my clips "one handed" without the assistance of hanging onto the clipped draw. I could climb a lot harder routes if I hung onto a clipped sling while clipping the rope with my other hand, but style and good form must prevail.

 

What he said.

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