What's your favorite sport climb?

[ryland_moore]

Overboard, Zebra Direct (crimpy!) and Blue Light Special at Smith are some of my favorite .11s to lead.

My all-time favorite sport route is Towering Inferno (.11b) at Owens. Sccchhwwweeet!

[Crackbolter]

"Sisu" is my favorite.

 

P.1- 5.11d+++ sceary 5.10 mantle!!!

P.2- 5.10b+++?

P.3- 5.10c+++?

P.4- 5.11a+++?

P.5- 5.10 belay move (don't combine pitches!)

P.6- 5.11a+++?

P.7- 5.8?

 

Rap off sport wall like D.H/L.A. or T.C.

 

Overall, it is very enjoyable and I am greatful to have such a wonderful and challenging multipitch route in our area.

 

[ 08-27-2002, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

[RURP]

This is RURP:

 

My favorite sport climb is the one where all of the hangers are missing and the befuddled sport-climbers scratch their heads and then decide to go wind-surfing instead.

 

RURP has spoken.

[mattp]

Erik, are you talking about the first pitch of Beetle Bailey, perhaps? I believe Confetti is in the corner system to the left, and rarely done. Beetle Bailey is the short pitch, front and center, with a bouldery move to a mantel followed by the power-lieback with sketchy feet.

[mattp]

Beetle Bailey is at least a letter grade easier if someone has brushed it just before you go.

[erik]

yup thats what i was talkin about mattp

 

danke!

 

still damn hard though for .10c

[Bob_Clarke]

Smith Rock:

- 12b, Crossfire

- 13a, Churning

- 13a, Darkness at Noon

- 11a, Magic Light

- 10c, Morning Sky (best 10c)

- 12d, Kings of Rap

- 10a, Light on the Path (Awesome)

- 12b, Vision (deserves propah respect)

- 11b, Vomit Launch

 

Little Si:

- 12b, Technorignie

- 12d, Californiacator

 

Red Rocks

- 12a, Fear and Loathing

- 11d, Yak crack

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ropegun2002:

 

Red Rocks

- 12a, Fear and Loathing

- 11d, Yak crack

---

Yak Crack is a climb on Yak peak in BC... Yaak Crack is the one in Red Rocks!

[richard_noggin]

Steep street 11-A Deception crags North bend not because of the grade it's just way cool or any thing on Nevermind wall because it is sooo steep that only cool climbers hang there and the Rock Cops suffer'in from cerebralrectumitis don't go there

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

"This is RURP:

 

My favorite sport climb is the one where all of the hangers are missing and the befuddled sport-climbers scratch their heads and then decide to go wind-surfing instead.

 

RURP has spoken."

 

You're such a piton. Go suck a Birdbeak.

[pope]

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

quote:

---

Originally posted by pope:

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

---

For someone who's not trying to sound condescending, you're sounding pretty condescending. The Doctor sees why you and the Dwaynepipe get along so well . Given said similarity with Dwayno, Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol.

[sexual_chocolate]

quote:

---

Originally posted by pope:

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

---

Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go?

 

BTW, you can't always set up a toprope without access to the top of the cliff, and you can't always access the top of the cliff with trad pro. Hence, sportclimbing is born! Also, on many routes, an attempt with a toprope would lead to some serious swings, with dangerous potentials. X rated topropes! More serious than many trad leads! Maybe you're on to something here....

[pope]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol.[/QB]

---

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION.....Sport doggin' and booze hounding don't mix! You'll get fat, son. Put the six-pack back and get your six-pack back.

[sexual_chocolate]

So in other words, bolted sportclimbing exists because it's safer than toproping.

[greghinemeyer]

i know people who went to the mountains with an half once and they came back empty handed. but i don't think the mountain found it.

[pope]

quote:

---

Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go?

 

....[/QB]

---

With only six days and feeling a little out of shape, I went to Squamish instead. Fun in the sun rock work/hiking. Some little puke made a mess out of my door lock one night.

[sexual_chocolate]

How could I forget?!?!

 

12 Gauge IQ at Rhythm and Blues cliff!

 

Would anyone argue if I called it THE BEST sport line at Index?

 

Also, Dwarf Toss is pretty damn good. It's the free version of Snow White, just left of Princely Ambitions.

[allison]

quote:

---

Originally posted by pope:

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

---

Hmm....gee, I don't know, Pope, maybe because it's FUN, and it makes us HAPPY?

 

Here's to appropriately placed bolts, preferably of the FAT variety!

[iain]

Float Like a Butterfly 5.10b, Smith

[pope]

quote:

---

Originally posted by allison:

quote:

---

Originally posted by pope:

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

---

Hmm....gee, I don't know, Pope, maybe because it's FUN, and it makes us HAPPY?

 

Here's to appropriately placed bolts, preferably of the FAT variety!

---

Are we confusing happiness with narcissism? You'll get equal pleasure, adventure and sense of accomplishment from a toprope, without the mess left on a typical sport route.

[Alex]

-Smith

Teddy Bears Picnic

Sunset Slab on Cod Rock

BBQ the Pope

5 Gallon Buckets

 

-32/38

those nice 10c 10ds up at Bobs

 

-Mazama

Methow Inspiration Route

 

-Red Rocks

Trophy Wall

[allison]

quote:

---

Originally posted by pope:

---

Are we confusing happiness with narcissism? You'll get equal pleasure, adventure and sense of accomplishment from a toprope, without the mess left on a typical sport route.

 

No.

 

Mess?

 

Now don't start on me about how the bolts are a major incursion, or I'll start in on how trails are an even bigger incursion, and how if you are anti-bolts, then you should be anti-trails. I bent Dwayner's ear about this pretty bad a few months back.

 

Oh and for what it's worth, the satisfaction of completing a climb on lead, even on bolts, is different. Don't be too judgemental of the experiences of others.

 

[ 08-27-2002, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: allison ]

[texplorer]

Smith

-Vomit Launch .11b

-Heinous Cling .12a

-moons of Pluto .10d

 

Red Rocks

-Prince of Darkness (want to do)

 

El Potrero Chico

-Snott Girlz .10

-El Sendero Diablo .11

-Spaceboyz .10

 

Potash Road

-twittin shinkies .11something

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Don't misinterpret sport-climber utterances (an easy thing to do). Screaming, wailing, grunting, and hollering are all variously translated as "this route's swell," "what an intriguing sequence," "my goodness, what a long deadpoint to such a jingus sloping edge," and "fuck, this shit's hard!"

---

what sportclimber screaming and cursing means:

 

waaaa i am a spoiled baby

 

i got a run in my lycra

 

hey look at me on this hard climb

 

i dont suck its my belayer that does - thats why i keep falling here

 

i am trying a climb way too hard for me to impress chix

 

my stick clip broke and i will have to climb to the next bolt

 

the battery on the redpoint laser is dead and i doint know which handhold to reach for next

 

someone put a pumpkin in the big hold on toxic

 

a 15 year old girl climbs better than i ever will