ryland_moore Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Overboard, Zebra Direct (crimpy!) and Blue Light Special at Smith are some of my favorite .11s to lead. My all-time favorite sport route is Towering Inferno (.11b) at Owens. Sccchhwwweeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 "Sisu" is my favorite. Â P.1- 5.11d+++ sceary 5.10 mantle!!! P.2- 5.10b+++? P.3- 5.10c+++? P.4- 5.11a+++? P.5- 5.10 belay move (don't combine pitches!) P.6- 5.11a+++? P.7- 5.8? Â Rap off sport wall like D.H/L.A. or T.C. Â Overall, it is very enjoyable and I am greatful to have such a wonderful and challenging multipitch route in our area. Â [ 08-27-2002, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RURP Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 This is RURP: Â My favorite sport climb is the one where all of the hangers are missing and the befuddled sport-climbers scratch their heads and then decide to go wind-surfing instead. Â RURP has spoken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Erik, are you talking about the first pitch of Beetle Bailey, perhaps? I believe Confetti is in the corner system to the left, and rarely done. Beetle Bailey is the short pitch, front and center, with a bouldery move to a mantel followed by the power-lieback with sketchy feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Beetle Bailey is at least a letter grade easier if someone has brushed it just before you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 yup thats what i was talkin about mattp  danke!  still damn hard though for .10c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Smith Rock: - 12b, Crossfire - 13a, Churning - 13a, Darkness at Noon - 11a, Magic Light - 10c, Morning Sky (best 10c) - 12d, Kings of Rap - 10a, Light on the Path (Awesome) - 12b, Vision (deserves propah respect) - 11b, Vomit Launch  Little Si: - 12b, Technorignie - 12d, Californiacator  Red Rocks - 12a, Fear and Loathing - 11d, Yak crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2002: Â Red Rocks - 12a, Fear and Loathing - 11d, Yak crack Yak Crack is a climb on Yak peak in BC... Yaak Crack is the one in Red Rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Steep street 11-A Deception crags North bend not because of the grade it's just way cool or any thing on Nevermind wall because it is sooo steep that only cool climbers hang there and the Rock Cops suffer'in from cerebralrectumitis don't go there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 26, 2002 Author Share Posted August 26, 2002 "This is RURP: Â My favorite sport climb is the one where all of the hangers are missing and the befuddled sport-climbers scratch their heads and then decide to go wind-surfing instead. Â RURP has spoken." Â You're such a piton. Go suck a Birdbeak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 26, 2002 Author Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. For someone who's not trying to sound condescending, you're sounding pretty condescending. The Doctor sees why you and the Dwaynepipe get along so well . Given said similarity with Dwayno, Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go? Â BTW, you can't always set up a toprope without access to the top of the cliff, and you can't always access the top of the cliff with trad pro. Hence, sportclimbing is born! Also, on many routes, an attempt with a toprope would lead to some serious swings, with dangerous potentials. X rated topropes! More serious than many trad leads! Maybe you're on to something here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol.[/QB] CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION.....Sport doggin' and booze hounding don't mix! You'll get fat, son. Put the six-pack back and get your six-pack back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 So in other words, bolted sportclimbing exists because it's safer than toproping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greghinemeyer Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 i know people who went to the mountains with an half once and they came back empty handed. but i don't think the mountain found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go? ....[/QB] With only six days and feeling a little out of shape, I went to Squamish instead. Fun in the sun rock work/hiking. Some little puke made a mess out of my door lock one night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 How could I forget?!?! Â 12 Gauge IQ at Rhythm and Blues cliff! Â Would anyone argue if I called it THE BEST sport line at Index? Â Also, Dwarf Toss is pretty damn good. It's the free version of Snow White, just left of Princely Ambitions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hmm....gee, I don't know, Pope, maybe because it's FUN, and it makes us HAPPY? Â Here's to appropriately placed bolts, preferably of the FAT variety! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Float Like a Butterfly 5.10b, Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by allison: quote:Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hmm....gee, I don't know, Pope, maybe because it's FUN, and it makes us HAPPY? Â Here's to appropriately placed bolts, preferably of the FAT variety! Are we confusing happiness with narcissism? You'll get equal pleasure, adventure and sense of accomplishment from a toprope, without the mess left on a typical sport route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 -Smith Teddy Bears Picnic Sunset Slab on Cod Rock BBQ the Pope 5 Gallon Buckets  -32/38 those nice 10c 10ds up at Bobs  -Mazama Methow Inspiration Route  -Red Rocks Trophy Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: Are we confusing happiness with narcissism? You'll get equal pleasure, adventure and sense of accomplishment from a toprope, without the mess left on a typical sport route. Â No. Â Mess? Â Now don't start on me about how the bolts are a major incursion, or I'll start in on how trails are an even bigger incursion, and how if you are anti-bolts, then you should be anti-trails. I bent Dwayner's ear about this pretty bad a few months back. Â Oh and for what it's worth, the satisfaction of completing a climb on lead, even on bolts, is different. Don't be too judgemental of the experiences of others. Â [ 08-27-2002, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: allison ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Smith -Vomit Launch .11b -Heinous Cling .12a -moons of Pluto .10d  Red Rocks -Prince of Darkness (want to do)  El Potrero Chico -Snott Girlz .10 -El Sendero Diablo .11 -Spaceboyz .10  Potash Road -twittin shinkies .11something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Don't misinterpret sport-climber utterances (an easy thing to do). Screaming, wailing, grunting, and hollering are all variously translated as "this route's swell," "what an intriguing sequence," "my goodness, what a long deadpoint to such a jingus sloping edge," and "fuck, this shit's hard!" what sportclimber screaming and cursing means:  waaaa i am a spoiled baby  i got a run in my lycra  hey look at me on this hard climb  i dont suck its my belayer that does - thats why i keep falling here  i am trying a climb way too hard for me to impress chix  my stick clip broke and i will have to climb to the next bolt  the battery on the redpoint laser is dead and i doint know which handhold to reach for next  someone put a pumpkin in the big hold on toxic  a 15 year old girl climbs better than i ever will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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