rbw1966 Posted August 12, 2004 Posted August 12, 2004 I have not read this entire thread but I would like to take issue with all the naysayers on this website who fill the board with bad beta and negativity. I have climbed Cho Orayo via the double-stuff route and we did not pay a permit fee nor were did we have any encounters with officer lee ayson. Bronco-- when do you plan your ascent of mt. index? as you can tell I have experience in expedition climbing and would like to join your trip. Quote
Dru Posted August 12, 2004 Posted August 12, 2004 (edited) Do you allow man/dog speed record holders? Edited August 12, 2004 by Dru Quote
billcoe Posted August 12, 2004 Posted August 12, 2004 RBW, as I posted that bad-beta earlier (about Buffalo Bill), I would like to atone. 007 obviouly knows quite a bit about Nepal. Regular porters in Nepal really will carry your stuff for $1.00 day although I think it is slightly higher now. If it was me, I would shoot for a sub-6500 meter peak. As I understand it, many of the fees have been totally elimanted for those, and Nepal is trying to encourage climbers to show up and crank. A small group of skilled climbers could show up and have a ball doing plenty of stuff over there. Hell, they have some unclimbed ice runnells and "small" mountains (some as yet unnamed)that make some of the Canadian stuff look like a slip and slide. You could really do a kick assed trip for low $$$. Seriously. And if you drink the Chang instead of the $4 a bottle beer that some porter took a week to carry up there, you'd be way ahead of the game. Not as cheap as driving to Alaska or Canada and sleeping in your tent and car mind you, but hey, can't have everything. Quote
iain Posted August 12, 2004 Posted August 12, 2004 There might be a few spots left on the Wickwire/Simpson expedition to K2. It's on the cheap, so we are going to eat any black cats that run in front of us in Karachi, sleep underneath painter's ladders, and fashion ice picks out of broken glass mirror shards. Leaving tomorrow, Fri 13th. Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 Let's ride our little motorcycles up to basecamp, OK? Quote
Dru Posted August 13, 2004 Posted August 13, 2004 HI EVERYONE! ANNABELLE HERE! AS YOU CAN SEE I AM STILLPOSTING MY BLOG ALL IN CAPS! IT MAKES ME FEEL POWERFUL TO TYPE LIKE I"M SHOUTING! ANYWAYS JUST REMEMBER IF YOU ARE A SEXY BLONDE GIRL YOU WILL NOT NEED TO PAY TO CLIMB! YOU WILL BE PAID TO CLIMB BY YOUR SPONSORS! Quote
007_dup1 Posted August 16, 2004 Author Posted August 16, 2004 concerned about acclimatization: Our training in our Cascades will be excellent for Cho Oyu. ...and yes, this 8000m expedition will still only cut 4 weeks out of everyone's busy daily grind! The Chinese NW mapped route is very accessible with 1 class-3 "snow-step" in between regular class 2 climbing. Sleeping in an 02 depravation chamber and personal oxygen use will be a decision of each partner. We will rendevous in Kathmandu, one of the highest cities in the world, spending 3 days of light exercise upon arriving and 2 days coming back. The acclimitization begins back on the Cascade Mtns with a steady rate of ascents/descents not to mention the carbo-loading! We will actually be training our cardio-pulmonary systems for more like a total of 12 weeks. As we bus to Zhangmu, Tibet we will be going a little higher in elevation and resting overnight. From Zhangmu, we will travel through Nyalam and Tingri to the Chinese Base Camp hopefully arriving within 7 days of touching down at KTM. Will probably turn down the Chang offering due to the bacteria content and tight schedule. Still looking for an actual acclimatization timetable, anyone have one? For two weeks we will hike to the advanced base camp, hike to camp 1 at 6200 metres, hike the mapped route to Camp 2 at 6700 metres, put on our crampons and hike the mapped route to camp 3 at 7400 metres. Summit attempt will be within 3 weeks from arriving if the weather is good. Final packing, walking down from advanced base camp to Chinese base, driving to Tingri and to Kathmandu will be done in a celebratory manner the last week. 007, partner for the Cho Oyu 2005 trip (an 8000m summit: cheap, quick, and w/o discrimination!) Quote
fenderfour Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 An acclimitization "table"? Do you mean a climb schedule? If so, many of the pay to climb companies post trip itineraries on their websites. They are usually well thought out plans to acclimate to the needed elevation. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 007, I suppose you could use this as an acclimatudinaltimization table, but I don't think the it's range of altivation will be significant enough to help you out much: Note height adjustment feature... Quote
dmiller Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) " Winners never quit Quitters never win but if you never win and never quit then you're a moron" That's if you have a VO2 max of over 80ml/kg/mn that is a measurement of how efficiently your body can use oxygen. 80 is considered elite. Average Joe is around 40 Edited August 17, 2004 by dmiller Quote
cracked Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 " Winners never quit Quitters never win but if you never win and never quit then you're a moron" Cracked, who ever you are, I find this statement to be very offensive.! Not everyone is expeptional like you. So what's that make me, a losing moron? Maybe here in WA state. You're the moron chumpsucker! Let's see you in the Olympics and bring home the gold, huh! You serious, Donnelly? Does this mean you won't go skiing with me? I kinda figured that it makes you a ripping skier, but what do I know? -Paul Quote
dmiller Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 There's more to winning and altitude acclimization then just hard work and paying money. Look up VO2 max on the web and brouse through the articles you find. Some may surprise you. With the average elites VO2 max being above 80ml/kg/mn, mine tested at 53.7. Given these figures that can explain one reason why winning is hard for some as well as acclimization. Matt Carpenter's VO2 max is 90+ that's how he can jog at a 8 minute pace uphill at 14,000 feet. I figure he could do Raineer roundtrip car to car in under 4 hours with a moderate pack on. Quote
jefffski Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 there's more to it than vo2 max. also recovery rates (fitness), lactic acid carrying ability, aerobic threshold (the point where your body can no longer satisfy its needs through oxygen and begins to use muscle), the percentage of oxygen that your body actually uses, pain tolerance, desire and motivation. all play a part. what did i miss? Quote
007_dup1 Posted August 18, 2004 Author Posted August 18, 2004 Thanx Miller for this wonderful information. The VO2 chart and routine exercise test can help us monitor our performance climbing Cho Oyu. VO2max is the cardiovascular system's ability to utilize oxygen, measured by the volume of oxygen consumed while exercising at maximum capacity. (maximum amount of oxygen in mL, one can use in one minute per kg of body weight. At Sea Level, my last measurement was at 65mL/mn/kg or 97% of VO2max. Again, who are we to judge a climber's ability? There is no discrimination for this climb. If you can prove that your capable to reach an 8000m summit then rope up with us! Quote
ashw_justin Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 What about epo, et al.? Don't you just love the taste of pharmeceuticals in the morning? Or will this been a "clean" ascent Quote
ashw_justin Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 pardon my garbled english I had a something stuck in my teeth it was blue and yellow purple Quote
marek Posted August 21, 2004 Posted August 21, 2004 with regard to permits: A climbing permit to scale the Himalayas in Nepal is issued by the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Tourism. The Tibetan government has opened 326 peaks for climbing. It is waiving royalty for several peaks but requires a liaison officer for peaks above 6500 meters. Visa is $50 in San Francisco! Obtaing a liaison officer for Cho Oyu has royalties around $2,500USD for a small capable group. From Katmandu we will enter China through Zhangmu driving through Nyalam and Tingri to the Chinese Base Camp. The Pay to Climb companies probably don't want climbers to be informed about how easy this is! Well ? Again ! I see you still day dreaming about 30 day 8,000m expedition. Again It,s about 2 weeks more ( with out travel SEA-KTM-SEA ) The visa you mentioning for $50 is valid only for 30 days Zangmu-Zangmu. So, what you gonna do when it,s expired or close to expiry date ? I do not want to shoot you and you endavour down, Just be realistic and give yourself more time Conversly, If you are not doing it with a trekking outfit from Nepal you are setting yourself up for things like : 1, delays and loots of them 2, paperwork on site and loots of it 3, language barier ( liason officer is the only one in your plan that speaks your language and he stays at BC permanently ) 4,Tibetan sherpas are far less relaible than the ones from Nepal, can you comunicate with the cook ? small things but they add to YOUR stress at the time you need to think about climbing. Quote
Farrgo Posted August 21, 2004 Posted August 21, 2004 007 I seriously hope you are kidding. If not I would suggest that you and your skilled partners write out their wills and say goodbye before you go. Altitude is a serious bitch. I have spent most of the last three weeks above 4000m with several days at 5 and 6 thousand meters in Peru. I am back at 3000m and have acclimatized to that height but if I try and run up some stairs I will be breathing very hard at the top. Going up to 6000 was a bitch, this was after two weeks acclimitizing. There is no chance I would go up to 8000 in just another seven days. There is no such thing as a walk in the park at 8000m. Quote
Beck Posted August 22, 2004 Posted August 22, 2004 there was a blurb in this week's Economist- Kathmandu is under blockade by the Maoist rebels....no McPizza or cokes available while aclimatizing. Quote
fenderfour Posted September 2, 2004 Posted September 2, 2004 Who let the troll die? Or is it trawl? Quote
ken4ord Posted September 3, 2004 Posted September 3, 2004 Who let the troll die? Or is it trawl? I think 007 did. It was his to start with. I surprised we haven't gotten any training climbing reports. Whatz up with dat???? Quote
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