thelawgoddess Posted August 1, 2002 Share Posted August 1, 2002 looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 1, 2002 Share Posted August 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ... There was a pretty heavy-duty thread on the topic here awhile back started by Terminal Gravity, I believe. A search under his name may get you there. Selters spends a bit of time on it in his crevasse rescue book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 1, 2002 Author Share Posted August 1, 2002 got that book, thanks. and i'll look up the thread ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 1, 2002 Author Share Posted August 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by iceguy: Read the "Uemura" chapter in Wickwire's "Addicted to Danger"; some interesting stuff in there. Uemura-san used to climb solo with two bamboo poles tethered to his shoulders. oh, wait; don't have *that* one - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 1, 2002 Share Posted August 1, 2002 The key to it is bring a small 3rd tool so you can climb out of holes. Â Read - Touching the Void by Joe Simpson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 What I usually do while soloing a glacier- bring along an old ship anchor (100 lbs works best) and clip the the chain attached to it to the belay loop on your harness, and drag it along behind you. I also bring a Warren wench or heavy-duty come-a-long to extract myself, should I fall into a crevasse...works like a charm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious! Already have one, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 you talkin bout that large hemroid that won't stay stuffed in your drawers?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by trask: you talkin bout that large hemroid that won't stay stuffed in your drawers?? Yeah. It's name is "trask". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious! Already have one, thanks. I dont need strap on shit. I got the real thing between my legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Capt. Â Been a slow day for you. What's the deal? Soaked up too many suds last night. I have yet to see a from you yet today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 plexus you just ait lookin at the right threads. Â Now shut the fuck up and get back in line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 I'll save you the trouble of looking up the Uemura chapter in the Wickwire book. There is already more information about Uemura's crevasse poles in this thread than in the book, because if I remember correctly the book doesn't mention what he does with the poles. Try digging up some books on Eskimo/Inuit survival techniques instead. Â You might look at the Wickwire book for the first chapter though, it has some insights into solo glacier travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 And then there's Krakauer's account of his ascent of the Devil's Thumb. He strapped something like 30' of curtain rod to his pack. The story's in Eiger Dreams. Solo *Alaskan* glacier travel... that's the real deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by iain: quote:Originally posted by thelawgoddess: looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ... There was a pretty heavy-duty thread on the topic here awhile back started by Terminal Gravity, I believe. A search under his name may get you there. Selters spends a bit of time on it in his crevasse rescue book. tlg, I definately did not start that thread. I did post on it a few times. The opinion of several posters was that any solo or un-roped travel on a glacier, except when it is fully free of any seasonal snow, carries an un-acceptable level of risk. I personally think that that attitude is patent bullshit and myopic absoluteism.  That being said, it certainly ups the ante and requires a level of knowledge, experience and focus that might be equated to free soloing rock. I do not recommend it, but feel that it is a personnal choice and can be appropriate for climbers that know what they are getting into.  I solo glaciers often, but never casually. I pick the glacier and route carefully and move with heightened awareness of subtle snow depressions, terrain variations and cravasse clues. I often probe, take a long way around a suspect area and always carry an accessable second tool in case I have to climb out. I also mantain an awareness of my inner self and make sure that I am truly focused and not just fooling my self into a false sense of security. I have learned that from experience. I have never soloed where there are true monsters but I may if things were right.  In Alaska or the Himalayas, rather than bamboo I would use a single pole vault pole or a sail board mast with a webbing ladder attached. This pole could also be used to pull a sled and increase your security.  The bottom line is; that when it is done appropriatly, I don't think that the subjective exposure is any more than that of other mountaineering pursuits. I think with some people there is an irrational phobia of cravasses and an irrational complancency of rock fall, changing weather, environmental exposure and, most of all, a false security of the rope.  my 2 cents  [ 08-02-2002, 08:08 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 sorry, didn't mean to claim you started that thread. dunno who did. just remembered you had a few posts on it. Â cheers, -Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 No worries, iain. Â And, thanks for the beta on the yokum approach. BTW, the Reid glacier was an easy and safe "walk in the park" to cross solo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fleblebleb: Â You might look at the Wickwire book for the first chapter though, it has some insights into solo glacier travel. Â It also gives some insight to roped glacier travel. Â [ 08-02-2002, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 no kidding that chapter scared the crap out of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Vern Tejas used an aluminum ladder to solo Denali in winter (first to summit and return in winter solo). Â If I recall correctly, he wore/carried it over his shoulders and was some how strapped to it, with the idea that each end would hit catch the sides of the crevasse (the top sides) thus preventing him from falling in. He also used the ladder as part of his sleeping system (it was the roof for a pit type system he had). Â I tend to agree with TG that many over state the damgers or have an irrational view of the dangers. Â There are times I will solo as well. You just have to accpet the risk and minimize the dangers when possible. Or stay at home. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 I'm trying to rig a cannon to shoot myself onto the rock and avoid the whole fall into hole deal. I'll post back here when I get it working. Â I think TG laid it out pretty good. I dont imagine you will find anything on the web and like i said people attach poles to their bodies etc, as well as bring a 3rd tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: etc, as well as bring a 3rd tool.[/QB] I always bring my Tool, never can tell when you might have the opportunity to use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat_Boy Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 I once ran into a guy carrying skis across his pack. When I asked him why he wasn't going up on his skins, he said the skis would catch a crevasse fall. It didn't occur to him that he could ski up as securely as he could ski down--although he may have been simply scouting the descent route. Either way, I think I'd always prefer to be on the skis rather than carrying them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Didn't Uemura dissapear trying to solo Denali in winter? If I remember correctly, people thought he might of fallen into a crevasse and perished. If so, its obvious his system worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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