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Everything posted by Goat_Boy

  1. Anyone been up Victory Ridge or any of the eastern ridge routes with access to the Castle? I'm looking for any information out there, from access to conditions to recommendations. We're considering this as an August objective.
  2. MSR stove problems?

    quote: Originally posted by Beck: I've got a Whisperlite (did not spend any money on that P.O.S.) and it SUCKS. Works fine(I guess, if you take into consideration its' inherent crappy design )it's just a P.O.S. Beck--give me an address so I can mail you the operating instructions. C'mon now, they're not crap. They are well designed, simple, durable and perform well for the intended application. I've been using a XGKII and Whisperlite International for a long while. I've had field failures, but nothing that couldn't be fixed in 10 minutes. They do need periodic maintenence, simple cleaning. My major complaint is the inability to nest the fixed tube models in cookware (I like to keep that stuff together). If I'm enlessly simmering or hanging in the tent, I'll bring the Stormy or the Primus. But IMHO there's no finer furnace for melting snow than the XGK. Fast as an R1, loud as a Harley.
  3. Wanker photo test 2

    My Commodore 64 is having a hard time posting these. Testing.
  4. A new species?

    Norman, I'm shocked. You're the last person I would have thought to be trolling through the "Spray," let alone peddling this kind of trashiness... "First, find a small whole (about half and inch to an inch in diameter) and stick your finger in it. If you feel a tounge move away quickly, you have found a clam. Quickly dig out a whole and grab the clam before it borrows deaper into the mud." And this... "Horseneck Clams (Gaper Clams) are larger than your ordinary clam. Typically a nice size Horseneck will have a shell that measures six to eight inches." Not to mention... "Gaper clams are edible and are heavily fished at spring tides. They are commonly infected with larval tapeworm cysts, but these are harmless to humans." I certainly welcome raising the bar here with an exercise in taxonomy or descriptions of endemic organisms, but I'm on to your little game, I'm afraid.
  5. Blood, sweat and tears.

    quote: Originally posted by mikebell: Congrats guys. Swissman and I wished you could have joined us earlier this summer PP. Who wants to do my variation? Up the Hoh and down and out the other side. Are you talking about going up the Hoh Glacier, or doing the Hoh trail to Glacier Meadows and heading toward Low Divide? The Olympus traverse is spectacular. Routefinding through the Humes Glacier/Queets Basin area is especially fun if the weather holds. Look for plane wreckage on the terminal morraine. There are a few bivy sites here, too. Highly recommend camping high in Queets Basin, below Dodwell-Rixon. This is one of the most beautiful spots in the park, and seldom visited. I'd like to do this again, exiting via the queets river (we did the whole Bailey Range last time). Next year for me, though. I can't get back to Washington soon enough. Another cool option would be to exit via the south fork (Valhallas). Anyone done that?
  6. Blood, sweat and tears.

    PP, yes, I am talking about that knife edge. I don't recall it being too difficult--we simply turned the corner and scrambled straight up. I recall being able to look down on the east face. Not sure if that is the correct route, however. Funny thing about a lot of Olympic summit blocks--there usually is a hidden key to the summit that's pretty easy in class. The trick is finding it. BTW, Five Fingers makes an excellent bivy site, wouldn't you say? I've seen some of your trip photos. Looked like an great trip, perfect conditions. Nice outfit!
  7. Blood, sweat and tears.

    quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: [QB]One thing that confused us was the route up was supposed to be class 3, yet 15 feet beneath the rap slings we could find no easier way than straight up that crack. Were we on track... was there an easier way? QB] Now I'm confused, unless the rap point has been moved. Seems to me the summit block involves jumping the moat high to get on the NE face, traversing to the south and scrambling the crumbly ridgeline (keeping right) to the top. It's been quite a while, but that's my recollection.
  8. AT Gear reviews?

    I've been using the old Silveretta 404's with a variety of boots with good results for my abilities. Silverettas are simple, bombproof, and easy to adjust and maintain. If you're looking for Warren Miller action, you might be better off with Diamir, though. I'd be interested to hear more on the Lazer. I've found Denali's to be more boot than I needed (or wanted) for the cascades. But I've settled into the climb first category.
  9. Blood, sweat and tears.

    quote: Originally posted by Norman Clyde: I would not have beat on myself that hard just for the sake of bragging rights. Still, you did earn the merit badge. Olympus in a day puts you in select company. Sweaty, filthy, and somewhat insane company, but select nevertheless. If mountaineering is about personal challenge, then time trials are just as worthy a goal as anything, I guess. A race to break a speed record is quite another matter. Good job, Norman. Not bad for an old country doctor.
  10. Blood, sweat and tears.

    Congrats, Pusher. Give us a TR on conditions, minimalist gear choices, footwear, etc. Why? because we can can can...
  11. Ryland Moore, I’ve just read your essay in Climbing, No 216, Nov ’02. I think many of us share your reaction to crowds on popular summits, particularly after finishing a more serious route only to confronted with the hordes who have followed a cattle path to the top. I’ve also frowned upon more casual climbers pounding their chests over cell phone calls to buddies, attempting to ingratiate some sense of awe over their achievement. Your point about more experienced climbers taking an elitist attitude toward novice climbers is a good one. Many of us who get impatient at a logjam simply want to get away from slower, often more dangerous novices so we can continue “our” climb at our speed. And under similar circumstances, most of us would simply pass by your leash- dragging beginner on Hood, as you did. But I think you failed to fully explore the crux of the issue. Yes, crowds tend to change our behavior, but because they are exactly that, crowds, and not because climbers become naturally elitist or take self-reliance to extremes. The real issue is that crowded routes tend to actually isolate teams and individuals rather than foster cooperation and safe technique. We’re more interested in getting around someone than helping a novice climb safely. When a logjam is not an issue, climbers do, in fact, tend to help other teams on route. Climbers routinely offer unsolicited advice to “greenhorns” who appear poised to gore themselves on their axe, frequently encourage total strangers who appear to be languishing on route. But the fact is, we are less prone to do so when there are several others around to do it for us, when we become self focused and desire primarily an exit from a crowded bottleneck. I doubt you would have callously passed by your Hood beginner had the descent route been free of delays. Crowds do change our behavior in the mountains. No doubt about it. I know that’s what you were trying to say. Using the recent accidents on Hood and Rainier to make your point, however, does a disservice to those involved. What could you have done if you were stationed in the Pearly Gates, waiting to advise teams coming down? The accident was precipitated by a team with a novice, but he was roped to 3 experienced climbers. The route had been glazed by recent rain and was more dangerous. We don’t know who slipped or why. The other victims were simply in the wrong place at the wrong time on fast ice. Similarly, the Rainier teams, all experienced, were caught in severe weather on high angle terrain. Liberty Ridge is a committing route, especially in deteriorating weather. Proposing that a local with experience on the route or with local weather might have been able to offer life-saving advice is a big, big, presumption and insults the victims, it seems to me. Your point about how we react to summit crowds and bottlenecks is interesting and worthy of discussion. But using the accidents on Hood and Rainier to embellish the point completely misses the mark. Eric Ellis Kitsap Peninsula, WA
  12. Let us consider your Goat resume, lowercase goatboy. Have you ... 1. Owned a Pontiac GTO (2 points for "The Judge" edition)? 2. Worn a Goatee? 3. Actually punched an aggressive, pee-thirsty Olympic mountain goat in the head or neck? Still in?
  13. I can't comment on current conditions, but I may have to challenge you to a duel. Not sure this town is big enough for the both of us...
  14. Ryland Moore Essay--Climbing No 216

    Ryland, Thanks for posting the entire piece. To my reading, the edited version changed it's tone and thesis. I think this is especially apparent if you read the published version first. The original text contains much that would mitigate my prior criticism. I still believe 3rd person speculation about climbing tragedies is often gratuitous, frequently misused by those who have an axe to grind. I don't think, however, that was your intent. But I do have to ask, why connect the tragedies with a proliferation of inexperienced climbers? "With the latest tragedies in the Cascades on Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier, I wonder if there are too many people in the mountains with too little experience?" Even though you later point out that they were, in fact, experienced, the reference implies otherwise...that they made rookie mistakes. That's where the using those events fails and insults those victims and survivors. We weren't there and don't know what, or if, mistakes were made. Mountaineering can be dangerous for all level of climbers--sometimes even more so for accomplished climbers willing to shave the safety margin by forgoing that belay, running out that pitch or taking on the more challenging route. That's why a discussion of the dynamics of route crowding, not those particular tragedies, might have been more appropriate here. Otherwise your points about inexperience and poorly educated yahoos in the mountains are all well taken. Seems to me the published version did a small disservice to your intended argument. Best wishes.
  15. You are how you piss.

    If you knew the real truth, it might be "sheep boy," chicken F'er.
  16. You are how you piss.

    I actually drove a GTO in my college days. Hence the name.
  17. You are how you piss.

    Have to admit Trask had me spitting up milk through my nose with these. HIMALAYAN CLIMBER: Fumbling darkly through cluttered gear with numb fingers, mistakes the whiskey for the pee bottle. After 3 weeks in the same company, decides not to tell now despised teamates.
  18. Mt. Deception conditions?

    Deception has been discussed in this section previously--look for some of those threads. I'm sure it's pretty dry and chossy this late in the season. The standard route out of Royal Basin is very straightforward any time of year.
  19. Wind River Range and Gannett Peak

    quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Roughly four more miles up through Titcomb Basin and then over Bonney/Dinwoody Pass). Some camp in the basin. However, I think this makes for too long of a summit day. At the pass there are camp sites with rock rings. However, water can be a problem here. I recommend that you carry over, cross Dinwoody Glacier. There are GREAT campsites below Gooseneck Pinnacle that will put you in great position to do the route. (This is assuming you'll be doing the Gooseneck Route?) Dos: Go light, approach from the west, camp as high and close as possible. Don'ts: Go heavy, approach from the east, camp in titcomb basin as you "high" camp, take advice from those at the "outdoor store" in Pinedale. Excellent advice from Rodchester. This is a LONG climb so you should be fit. There are good sites in the Bonney Pass area, but crossing the Dunwoody will give you a nice advantage on summit day and you won't have the bugs to deal with. It's not a bad idea to build a few extra days into your itinerary for weather, etc. We waited out 2 days of summer rain/snow and were well rewarded.
  20. GoLite Products

    Anyone had any real world experience with GoLite gear, particularly the Gust or Speed packs? Durable or disposable?
  21. Olympics rainshadow...

    quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Well I guess I've just been unlucky then. Clark and the rest of the Needles look pretty cool when they pop out of the clouds. I think you have been unlucky, but this is the NW afterall. I've been hiking and climbing in the Olys since I was a puppy (and I used to walk 5 miles to school in barefeet too, dammit), and I would confirm the rain shadow phenomenom beyond the empirical data. Not to say it the bahamas, but I've had consistently better luck around the Needles than the Vahallas. And it's the only area I found that occasionally beats the prevailing weather systems. Albeit marginally.
  22. Suggestions??

    quote: Originally posted by MATT B: ...Never having spent any time there I would like some suggestions on where to camp, what to see, good EASY climbs, etc. What are the chances that I will actually have good weather? Thanx for the help. Good Camp, EASY climbs, and on the margin of the rain shadow: Go to Marmot Pass. Actually, just above Marmot Pass. There is a nice grassy plateau just south and 300 ft above. Great 360 views of high peaks, Mystery, Warrior, Deception, Alphbet Ridge, etc. Easy traverse and scramble to the top of Boulder Ridge with more great views Easy hike up Buckhorn Mountain to the North. Nice hike down to the Dungeness and Boulder Shelter and beyond toward Warrior Peak if you're more ambitious (bring a rope for this because you'll want to rap the summit tower down to the notch). Very moderate 6 mile hike in to the pass. This is a 4 star trip for someone who wants to take it a little easy and have a few options. Can't beat the campsite, but it's not official so tread VERY lightly in the heather and lichen. No water, but there may still be snow on the north facing slope. And there are more established sites lower in the meadowed basin just below the pass. You will see some of the best country the Olympics have to offer. Nothing hard core, but a good trip for a couple looking to do a little exploring.
  23. A new record on Rainier

    Camp Muir daytrippers will recognize her as the older woman whose always doing the hike on sunny days. She usually travels with another woman (name escapes me) and they're both very friendly and willing to chat. They've even flirted with us. And they can really motor. Great story.
  24. snowboard boot options

    Norman, I'm certainly no expert on a board, but I'd think plastics would be pretty difficult--you need good flexion. You might want to think about versatile bindings instead of the boot. ?? Wonder what Gauthier wears while boarding down the Gib Chute?