solo glacier travel

[thelawgoddess]

looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ...

[iain]

quote:

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Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ...

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There was a pretty heavy-duty thread on the topic here awhile back started by Terminal Gravity, I believe. A search under his name may get you there. Selters spends a bit of time on it in his crevasse rescue book.

[thelawgoddess]

got that book, thanks. and i'll look up the thread ...

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

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Originally posted by iceguy:

Read the "Uemura" chapter in Wickwire's "Addicted to Danger"; some interesting stuff in there. Uemura-san used to climb solo with two bamboo poles tethered to his shoulders.

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oh, wait; don't have *that* one - thanks!

[Cpt.Caveman]

The key to it is bring a small 3rd tool so you can climb out of holes.

 

Read - Touching the Void by Joe Simpson

[Charlie]

What I usually do while soloing a glacier- bring along an old ship anchor (100 lbs works best) and clip the the chain attached to it to the belay loop on your harness, and drag it along behind you. I also bring a Warren wench or heavy-duty come-a-long to extract myself, should I fall into a crevasse...works like a charm!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious!

[lizard_brain]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious!

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Already have one, thanks.

[allthumbs]

you talkin bout that large

hemroid that won't stay

stuffed in your drawers??

[lizard_brain]

quote:

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Originally posted by trask:

you talkin bout that large

hemroid that won't stay

stuffed in your drawers??

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Yeah. It's name is "trask".

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by lizard brain:

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Some people attach large poles to their bodies. Serious!

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Already have one, thanks.

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I dont need strap on shit. I got the real thing between my legs.

[plexus]

Capt.

 

Been a slow day for you. What's the deal? Soaked up too many suds last night. I have yet to see a from you yet today.

[Cpt.Caveman]

plexus you just ait lookin at the right threads.

 

Now shut the fuck up and get back in line

[fleblebleb]

I'll save you the trouble of looking up the Uemura chapter in the Wickwire book. There is already more information about Uemura's crevasse poles in this thread than in the book, because if I remember correctly the book doesn't mention what he does with the poles. Try digging up some books on Eskimo/Inuit survival techniques instead.

 

You might look at the Wickwire book for the first chapter though, it has some insights into solo glacier travel.

[slothrop]

And then there's Krakauer's account of his ascent of the Devil's Thumb. He strapped something like 30' of curtain rod to his pack. The story's in Eiger Dreams. Solo *Alaskan* glacier travel... that's the real deal.

[Terminal_Gravity]

quote:

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Originally posted by iain:

quote:

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Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ...

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There was a pretty heavy-duty thread on the topic here awhile back started by Terminal Gravity, I believe. A search under his name may get you there. Selters spends a bit of time on it in his crevasse rescue book.

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tlg, I definately did not start that thread. I did post on it a few times.

 

The opinion of several posters was that any solo or un-roped travel on a glacier, except when it is fully free of any seasonal snow, carries an un-acceptable level of risk. I personally think that that attitude is patent bullshit and myopic absoluteism.

 

That being said, it certainly ups the ante and requires a level of knowledge, experience and focus that might be equated to free soloing rock. I do not recommend it, but feel that it is a personnal choice and can be appropriate for climbers that know what they are getting into.

 

I solo glaciers often, but never casually. I pick the glacier and route carefully and move with heightened awareness of subtle snow depressions, terrain variations and cravasse clues. I often probe, take a long way around a suspect area and always carry an accessable second tool in case I have to climb out. I also mantain an awareness of my inner self and make sure that I am truly focused and not just fooling my self into a false sense of security. I have learned that from experience. I have never soloed where there are true monsters but I may if things were right.

 

In Alaska or the Himalayas, rather than bamboo I would use a single pole vault pole or a sail board mast with a webbing ladder attached. This pole could also be used to pull a sled and increase your security.

 

The bottom line is; that when it is done appropriatly, I don't think that the subjective exposure is any more than that of other mountaineering pursuits. I think with some people there is an irrational phobia of cravasses and an irrational complancency of rock fall, changing weather, environmental exposure and, most of all, a false security of the rope.

 

my 2 cents

 

[ 08-02-2002, 08:08 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

[iain]

sorry, didn't mean to claim you started that thread. dunno who did. just remembered you had a few posts on it.

 

cheers,

-Iain

[Terminal_Gravity]

No worries, iain.

 

And, thanks for the beta on the yokum approach. BTW, the Reid glacier was an easy and safe "walk in the park" to cross solo.

[Terminal_Gravity]

quote:

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Originally posted by fleblebleb:

 

You might look at the Wickwire book for the first chapter though, it has some insights into solo glacier travel.

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It also gives some insight to roped glacier travel.

 

[ 08-02-2002, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

[iain]

no kidding that chapter scared the crap out of me.

[Rodchester]

Vern Tejas used an aluminum ladder to solo Denali in winter (first to summit and return in winter solo).

 

If I recall correctly, he wore/carried it over his shoulders and was some how strapped to it, with the idea that each end would hit catch the sides of the crevasse (the top sides) thus preventing him from falling in. He also used the ladder as part of his sleeping system (it was the roof for a pit type system he had).

 

I tend to agree with TG that many over state the damgers or have an irrational view of the dangers.

 

There are times I will solo as well. You just have to accpet the risk and minimize the dangers when possible. Or stay at home.

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

I'm trying to rig a cannon to shoot myself onto the rock and avoid the whole fall into hole deal. I'll post back here when I get it working.

 

I think TG laid it out pretty good. I dont imagine you will find anything on the web and like i said people attach poles to their bodies etc, as well as bring a 3rd tool.

[richard_noggin]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

etc, as well as bring a 3rd tool.[/QB]

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I always bring my Tool, never can tell when you might have the opportunity to use it

[Goat_Boy]

I once ran into a guy carrying skis across his pack. When I asked him why he wasn't going up on his skins, he said the skis would catch a crevasse fall. It didn't occur to him that he could ski up as securely as he could ski down--although he may have been simply scouting the descent route. Either way, I think I'd always prefer to be on the skis rather than carrying them.

[TimL]

Didn't Uemura dissapear trying to solo Denali in winter? If I remember correctly, people thought he might of fallen into a crevasse and perished. If so, its obvious his system worked well.