dkemp Posted July 6, 2004 Posted July 6, 2004 Climbed Givlers Dome this weekend with my buddy Seth. He let me lead the second pitch - good stuff! I dont think I would've led the first pitch - those first moves are awkward - yikes! Boy I can see how this climb is so popular - that second pitch is fun! Odd enough though, it wasnt crowded on Sunday. We saw some folks nearby but no-one else was on Givlers. Doxey Quote
Greg_W Posted July 6, 2004 Posted July 6, 2004 That climb is not approved for beginners, I hope you didn't take one up there. Those first moves get easier each time you do them; I used to hate that first part, now it's fun. Quote
selkirk Posted July 6, 2004 Posted July 6, 2004 We were up on Givlers sunday afternoon as well. I was amazed how empty the Icicle was all weekend. Climbed R&D on saturday as a warmup and didn't see a soul! Your right though, Givlers Gonna have to go back just lead the second pitch! Quote
dkemp Posted July 6, 2004 Author Posted July 6, 2004 Yeah we were there by 10am - cool breeze, no-one else around - perfect. Then getting ready I realized I had left my harness in the car - Wha? AW GEEZ! No way! But I - I - but - but - Aarrgh! Hiked down the car, retrieved my harness and back to the base of the climb, round trip = 1 hour ten minutes. Oh man, sometimes I drive myself crazy. Quote
Pandora Posted July 6, 2004 Posted July 6, 2004 Yeah we were there by 10am - cool breeze, no-one else around - perfect. Then getting ready I realized I had left my harness in the car - Wha? AW GEEZ! No way! But I - I - but - but - Aarrgh! Hiked down the car, retrieved my harness and back to the base of the climb, round trip = 1 hour ten minutes. Oh man, sometimes I drive myself crazy. That is possibly my favorite post ever. Quote
pzack Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 I got a new Stoke for Rock climbing this September. Stupid rain. I took a day off yesterday, and went to get on some classic routes in Leavenworth without the crowds. Givler's Crack is really outstanding. Fully deserving of the classic route status, but probably not deserving of the 5.8 rating. Doesn't really matter, cuz' it was fun, fun, fun. Did some bolted, slabby thing up there which was also decent, and then flailed around on Dogleg crack ... that jump from 5.8 to 5.8+ seemed like 3 or 4 grades Quote
Off_White Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 Forgot your harness? That's when you pull out the old school bag of tricks. Whip on a quick bowline-on-a-coil, cobble together some leg loops by twisting a 1" sling into a figure 8, clip 'em together with a locker and you're ready to go. It's only 5.8, you won't fall (especially with a harness rig like that!). Forgot the ATC too? That's what a hip belay is all about. Quote
Off_White Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 I thought Munter was a German, shouldn't you Poles be a little more skeptical of that stuff? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 i usually have an extra belay device in my pack. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 Forgot your harness? That's when you pull out the old school bag of tricks. Whip on a quick bowline-on-a-coil, cobble together some leg loops by twisting a 1" sling into a figure 8, clip 'em together with a locker and you're ready to go. It's only 5.8, you won't fall (especially with a harness rig like that!). Forgot the ATC too? That's what a hip belay is all about. Either that, or a Munter Hitch. Quote
DPS Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 I climbed Givler's Crack with an old school guy who refused to wear anything other than a swami belt on climbs easier than 5.10. Quote
lancegranite Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 I climbed Givler's crack free solo during one of my "marathon days". 1. Smoke a bunch of dope. 2. Park car at bottom of canyon. 3. Solo as many pitches as you can, running up the Icicle river road in between climbs. 4. Hitch hike back down the road to your car, sweaty and crazy. 5. smoke a bunch more dope. 6. Go drink beer with TR at Uli's with Julie... Best effort: Mountaineers dome, Careno Corners, Regular Route upper pitches, Bruce's Boulder, Barney rubble, Roto wall, Givler's crack, R&D route... Quote
SnowByrd Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 That climb is not approved for beginners, I hope you didn't take one up there. Those first moves get easier each time you do them; I used to hate that first part, now it's fun. I'm a beginner and I did it as my first multipitch trad! I cursed up a storm that first pitch but the second was like a long extended O I was smiling as I came up to the top, ready to kill my leader Quote
pope Posted September 25, 2004 Posted September 25, 2004 I climbed Givler's Crack with an old school guy who refused to wear anything other than a swami belt on climbs easier than 5.10. Did we team up on that pitch? Quote
MisterMo Posted September 26, 2004 Posted September 26, 2004 I climbed Givler's Crack with an old school guy who refused to wear anything other than a swami belt on climbs easier than 5.10. It was supposed to be the "SMC Dome". Clark had "found" it and with visions of glory lugged a bunch of stuff up there & futzed around the better part of a day. Al finally just went ahead & did it in late afternoon & the name just stuck. Quote
bobbyperu Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 yeah givs is great! anyone know what those neat looking spires across the way are..? Quote
pzack Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 yeah givs is great! anyone know what those neat looking spires across the way are..? Rat Creek Group? Quote
dbb Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Yep, Rat creek Group. The mole on the left, then the blockhouse, then... can't remember! Don't try the appraoch to these from the old road out of Colchuck Lk TH. It blows! Better to climb up from the icicle for that side, or come in St. Edwards plateau for the standard side (see nelson v2 for the mole) Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 yeah givs is great! anyone know what those neat looking spires across the way are..? He knows what they are. He's just trollin' ya'll cuz he put up a new route there recently. CHESTBEATER!!! Quote
Dru Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 I call BS. That can't be the Rat Creek Group. I think it's the Torres del Paine. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 ratgroup, more-or-less left to right==> doulith, mole, croc fang , shrew, monkey's head, blockhouse with rhombic, and the hook. Quote
bobbyperu Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 ratgroup, more-or-less left to right==> doulith, mole, croc fang , shrew, monkey's head, blockhouse with rhombic, and the hook. dood you ust be the imfamous leavenworth ben! wow!! thanx for the info everyone... i really waNNa check that place out sometime looks cool! uhhh, not so suck... uhh horsecock... yeah plab!! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 yeah its amazing what you remember when you stare at something everyday as a kid. take anotha bt 4me Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.