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Everything posted by pzack

  1. Frostbite Long Term Effects

    I had some frost nip on several finger tips in both hands back in 2004. I had cold sensitivity (got painful quickly) for a couple of seasons and some sensitivity rock climbing. After a couple seasons, things got much better. I remember in 2007 doing some very cold treks in Vermont and remarking on how my fingers were finally 'right' again.
  2. Jewish SuperPAC knows no decent bounds! (NSFW)

    There ain't alot of jews in the PNW. Probably not too many that climb and read Cascade Climbers. Maybe I'm the only one? and dude, you scare the shit out of me.
  3. I had not problem with the content. I don't mind folks linking to their own blog... as long as their own blog isn't firing off pop-up adds... at that point its more like spam in my opinion.
  4. can this be marked as spam please?
  5. Gunks guide book- Loan it to me..?

    I'll put the book in my car tonight. Let me know if you want to come by and get it while I'm at work (Bellevue-Eastgate area)
  6. Gunks guide book- Loan it to me..?

    Hey Matt, I have one. I work in Bellevue & live in Snoqualmie. You can drop by and pick it up if you want... but I need it back for a trip in September/October. -Zack
  7. west ridge of sherpa peak beta request

    The descent goes fine with one rope. I think we had a 60 meter. I don't recall if we needed the extra 10 meters or not.
  8. Snow Creek Wall question

    definately orbit. Here's a photo from AlpineDave's sight: The pic looks down at the start of your 5th pitch. That's the big right facing dihedral. There's one old button head and a newer bolt next to it. Protection is sorta scarce and the climbing is about 5.8 until you get to where this picture was taken, then it eases and you get some crappy button heads as you make your way to the next dihedral (where you started your 6th pitch I think) the next dihedral is left facing. Nicely done ff!
  9. Thai Food

  10. Bad Climbing movies

    It's a trick question. There are no bad climbing movies.
  11. I might have the record for the longest ascent. Did the WR in something like 37 hours. Bivied at the base of the route and then again at the top of the cascadian. Good Times.
  12. [TR] Forbidden- North Ridge 8/21/2005

    Hey Josh, If you do the Nelson route, and then start heading up the north ridge when you first get on it(instead of dropping over the other side and doing the ice/snow climb back to the ridge), then there is one 5.6 move very soon after you get on the ridge. Other than that one move, it's pretty much 5.0 all the way to the summit.
  13. Benchmarks for ratings...

    vicious battle snaffle.
  14. Benchmarks for ratings...

    From Another Thread:
  15. Baker routes

    If you're going to the true summit, then both routes share the same final snow slope to the summit. On the C-D route, you'll be on the left hand side of that slope while you climb to the summit. On the Easton route, you'll be on the right hand side (getting on it after passing the crater rim).
  16. There are a two well-bolted slab climbs next to Bathtub dome on the way to Condor Buttress. Does anyone know who put them up, what they are named, and what they are rated? They're not in the 11worth guidebook.
  17. Anyone know these routes?

    Thanks Fred.
  18. Ice Axes

    I really like the BD Raven. I've used it on everything from Glacier Walk-ups, to AI3. It's pretty light, it has stood up to heavy use, and it's got a comfortable handle. Its best use is in the cane position. The flat-top handle will spare your hand, so that you'll be more likely to keep a solid self-belay. It's OK in dagger position, though maybe not the best.
  19. Freak Dancing

    A town without dancing? Someone call Kevin Bacon.
  20. Climbing/Skiing around Pullman

    There's a climbing gym on campus that he can make use of... but it can get a little bit cosy at times: Also, there's usually a few days of snow, and you can cross country ski through the lentil fields. Quasi-Wilderness in the area. Also, there is a WSU Alpine Club. I'm not sure how you'd get ahold of them. Also, as a student, you can rent a lot of alpine gear Go Cougs!
  21. Road to Phelps Creek TH

    Has anyone been up in the Entiat Range? Is the road to the Phelps Creek TH still wide open? Thanks!
  22. Second Ascent

    Second Ascent is the best climbing store in the NW... When are they going to open a shop on the Eastside. Ballard is FAR FAR away.