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Posted

Heres the article text.

 

 

Rescue underway for injured climber on Mt. Hood

 

09:59 AM PDT on Tuesday, May 18, 2004

 

 

By TERESA BELL, kgw.com Staff

 

 

GOEVERNMENT CAMP, Ore. -- Search and rescue teams are looking for an injured climber who witnesses said fell into a crevasse below Crater Rock, near the 9,600-foot-level on Mt. Hood early Tuesday.

 

An aerial view of Crater Rock on Mt. Hood. (File Photo)

A climber called 9-1-1 for help from a cell phone on the mountain at about 7 a.m., after his partner fell through some ice and into a crevasse, authorities said.

 

“The fallen climber is reportedly a 60-year-old male,” said Sgt. Nick Watt, a spokesperson with the Clackamas County Sheriff’s Office. “They cannot see him in the crevasse nor is he responding to them.”

 

Watt said the man was not tied by rope to his climbing partner, a common practice during dangerous climbs that helps provide more stability if someone slips or falls.

 

As of 9;30 a.m., search and rescue teams had just begun their ascent on the mountain after “scrambling to respond,” Watt said.

 

They set up a base of operations at Timberline Lodge and also put a helicopter crew with the Oregon Army National Guard Military Air Rescue Team, out of Salem, on standby for help if needed.

 

At the base camp, a rescue team boarded a SnowCat that began climbing up the mountain at about 9:30 a.m. The SnowCat will take the team to the highest point it can reach, an effort expected to take about an hour, before dropping the climbers off to finish their trek on foot.

 

From there, the specially trained climbers will carefully make their way to the crevasse area, according to Angie Brandenburg, a spokesperson with the Clackamas County Sheriff’s Office. They probably won't reach the injured climber until after 11 a.m.

 

“We’re still trying to re-contact the climbing partner by phone,” Brandenburg added. “It’s a pretty dire situation up there right now.”

 

Meantime, the Blackhawk crew will likely fly to Timberline Lodge, where it will await the next stage of the rescue.

 

The military helicopter team is specially trained in high elevation rescues and has safely airlifted several injured climbers off Mt. Hood in the past. But Tuesday morning, visibility was extremely poor on the mountain, so the Blackhawk may not be able to safely fly at the high elevation.

 

“There’s kind of cloudy conditions up there right now but certainly we can use air assets up there... if we can get this guy out of the crevasse," Brandenburg said.

 

KGW meteorologist Dave Salesky said conditions were foggy and cloudy at 9 a.m., but blue sky and sunshine was moving into the area.

 

If searchers don’t reach the injured climber by Tuesday afternoon, the rescue effort will probably become much more difficult, as weather conditions grow dramatically worse.

 

Salesky said the forecast calls for mostly cloudy skies with thunder showers and up to four inches of new snow expected in the next 24 hours.

Posted

jeez...poor guy. allready that is a long time to be in a crevase, especialy if he is injured and in shock. hope they get him out soon...

 

not to critisize...but you gotta wonder why people don't rope up on Glaciers in the Spring time. Do people not ussualy rope up below Crater Rock or something?

Posted
not to critisize...but you gotta wonder why people don't rope up on Glaciers in the Spring time. Do people not ussualy rope up below Crater Rock or something?

Rope up - and end up with another massive accident?

Posted

I've always assumed you didn't need to rope up down there because there weren't any crevasses... Wrong again.

Were they over to the left (west side) of Crater Rock, rather than on right on the std route?

Posted

Lambone People usually rope up on the Hogsback (above Crater Rock).

 

I wonder if he fell in a moat around Crater Rock. There is a deep moat that goes all the way around the Rock. Then it could be below Crater Rock. That would be a nasty fall too. There are several slide cracks up there that appear later in the year or if he wandered over onto the White River Glacier there are some whoppers that could swallow you whole. Hope he is ok.

 

Given the slience from a certain PMR cc.comer what do you want to bet that he is up there trying to help? Good luck and hope everything turns out well.

Posted

This sucks, two accidents in a week! by the end of the week I predict that Ken Schram will come on TV and start demanding that nincompoop adrenaline seeking junkies be responsible for their own resue costs.

Posted

From oregonlive.com:

 

 

Tuesday, May 18, 2004

 

Climber found safe

Update from Clackamas County Sherriff's Department

 

Clackamas County Sherriff's Department reports that the 60 year old climber who fell into a crevasse on Mt.Hood has contacted rescuers:

 

Police & Fire:

Clackamas Co. Sheriff's Office: ****UPDATE***** The climber has made voice contact with his partner and says he is not hurt. He fell approx 30 ft down. AMR's Reach and Treat team is making their way to the crevasse and should be there soon. They will assist the climber out by roping down to him.

Posted

hey, thats very cool, great news...

 

but another question comes to mind. if the guy is only 30ft down and unhurt...why do they need a rescue team to come up and get him out?

 

I guess I don't know the whole story...but sheesh...seems pretty straightforward to me...

 

well, i guess I know petty well that once you make the first call, the rescue party is on their way no matter what...

Posted

there are several SAR people on this web site...and we do appreciate their input, especialy insight to the SAR perspective on accidents and such.

 

I'm glad the guy is safe and sound, two tragic stories in one day would be two too many. I'm sure it is the sucess stories that keep SAR volounteers coming back for more...

Posted
...I'm sure it is the sucess stories that keep SAR volounteers coming back for more...

 

Well, not exactly true, Lambone, but sorta. We come back because we've dedicated ourselves to saving lives. See MRA's mission statement here.

 

If you need us, we'll be there.

Posted

Shred picked the location correctly. From Today's Hood Climibing Report:

 

May 18th - The cravasses on White River Glacier are extending much further west than typical. Today one climber was ascending along a common route on the east shoulder of Triangle Moraine, broke through an snow covered cravasse and fell 35+ fee into the cravasse. This was at approximately the 9700' elevation. This is a common line for climbers to take so the prudent thing to do now, is to ascend around the west shoulder of Triangle Moraine.

Posted

Yeah, this maneater was right on the shoulder between Triangle Moraine and White River Canyon. I walked right past it - like withing 20 feet - Saturday morning and didn't even notice it. Who's thinking about crevasses near Triangle Morraine anyway? That's why this one is so dangerous. People aren't roped up there and rarely even have their helmets on. There are several crevasses (well, maybe glide cracks technically) opening up right on the western rim of White River Canyon running parallel to the canyon. My advise is to climb west of Triangle moraine.

 

Anyway, here's the goods:

3363AUT_7116-med.JPG

 

 

The crevasse was about 6 feet wide and about 50 feet deep. It actually went all the way down to the rock below. The guy who fell was beaten up pretty bad and had to be hauled out in a litter and lowered to a snowcat waiting at the Palmer.

 

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on this one! Looks like guy will pull through. bigdrink.gifrockband.gifbigdrink.gif

Posted

Sucker's big. That black part isn't the bottom, but the start of a roof that opens up below. I'm shocked at how well-off the guy is. If you are traveling in this area in low viz it wouldn't be a bad idea to rope up.

Posted

one of the rescue guys (Steve Rollins?) was saying the climbers were a bit off route. better to veer a bit left (west) towards crater rock.

also, there's a great story that hasn't been told about three dudes from Seattle who were some of the first responders. Matt Maker, Mike Di Sisto, and a third guy (sorry, I only interviewed two of them) are employees at a REI in Seattle. they bailed on their summit bid and helped Marc Reynolds call for help. Then Di Sisto rapped into the crevasse and tried to pry the victim (Geoff Godfrey) out. He says he stayed in that crevasse with Godfrey for about four hours shootin' the shit and trying to keep him concious. Mad props are obviously due to PMR... but also to these guys. bigdrink.gif

Posted

damn, broken pelvis is a pretty seroius injury. it's must have been way cold in that crevase for 4+ hours. Glad he made it, those guys from REI are good people!

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