Canary is Scary Again

[fern]

 

so is the broken rock spot visible in any of these pictures?

 

I have climbed this route once but my memory is incomplete. I think it was scary though ... and infested with wasps.

 

I like the smoot picture, thank goodness modern harnesses do a better job of holding up trousers, no more embarrassing photos flashing the waistband of yer tightywhiteys!

[Dru]

ya, canary without wasps is 4th class by comparison

[Lambone]

anyone ever see anybody fall off the "Airy Step?"

[mattp]

Lammy-

 

I don't know where you were. The picture of Eric shows the "traverse" (more like a single step) from the protectable crack start to the start of the main corner, above the unprotected bouldery alternative start. He could have placed a piece of gear under the lip right in front of his face had he wanted to.

 

No, I've never seen anybody falling off the start of the second pitch.

[jkrueger]

ya, canary without wasps is 4th class by comparison

When I did it, there were bats on the first pitch ... so, what is the rating when you're crimping instead of using the bat infested jams?

[Dru]

bats eat wasps

 

fuzzy little winged snafflehounds

[Jake]

When I did it, there were bats on the first pitch ... so, what is the rating when you're crimping instead of using the bat infested jams?

 

Depends... How big were the fangs?

[EWolfe]

With all these around, maybe we can clean up this infestation

[mattp]

Here's the placement I've used there.

Edited March 25, 2004 by mattp

[Jens]

It would be not a lof of fun if you were guiding with a thinner rope and your obese client fell off at the start of the second pitch of Canary. If you had some slack and rope stretch, the client might be haning 30 feet down in space and scared to death. And if your belay was high enough on castle, you wouldn't be able to lower them to the deck.

[scott_harpell]

haul

[chucK]

I thought that placement was marginal. Apparently that might have been empirically proven. It did not do much to alleviate fears of the consequences of a fall right there.

 

Canary was scary before. Probably still is, eh?

[catbirdseat]

Here's a shot showing the pro:

The crack I was referring to that would take an Alien is just below and to the right of mvs' arm pit in this photo. At the very top of the photo is a flake with a slot facing down in which one can place cam of about 2 inches. Obviously, you would want a double shoulder length runner on it.

[Greg_W]

Here's a shot showing the pro:

The crack I was referring to that would take an Alien is just below and to the right of mvs' arm pit in this photo. At the very top of the photo is a flake with a slot facing down in which one can place cam of about 2 inches. Obviously, you would want a double shoulder length runner on it.

 

Given your description, and with a double-length runner, you're still looking at a potentially painful landing if you fall. That pro is useless for anything but your mental state; even that is doubtful as it does nothing.

[mvs]

I saw an opportunity to get rid of the "boat anchor cam" right away. But I think that pro I have in the picture would prevent a pendulum across the face to directly below my belayer. It would keep the climber down in the 1st pitch cave, which I think is safer.

[Greg_W]

Always find the first chance to ditch the boat anchor, for sure. However, I see that if you slip when you step around climber's left and fall, your chin will come in intimate contact with the lip of the ledge. In this case, the longer fall might mean less injury in that you have a better chance of missing the edge of the ledge. It's all conjecture, though.

[catbirdseat]

When executing the step across, it is best not to dwell on the possible consequences of a fall. <<Insert Yoda quote here>>.

[Greg_W]

When executing the step across, it is best not to dwell on the possible consequences of a fall. <<Insert Yoda quote here>>.

 

I would disagree, acknowledge the danger, tune in to the fear and move past it, and move on.

[Alex]

The crack I was referring to that would take an Alien is just below and to the right of mvs' arm pit in this photo. At the very top of the photo is a flake with a slot facing down in which one can place cam of about 2 inches. Obviously, you would want a double shoulder length runner on it.

 

cbs, in my experience placing an alien as you describe eliminates one of the better holds right there, and is a psychological piece at best. If you fall with a piece there, you are going to head right down into the slot beneath your feet, which to me seems more ankle breaker than a longer swing back below the belay ledge.

 

The pro I ended up using is "none of the above". I place a #2 camalot in a smaller crack above the roof (out of view in this photo), directly above and slightly left of the belay ledge. You have to climb up to it a little off the belay to place it, then climb down again to the ledge and do the traverse.

[catbirdseat]

Alex, I know about that one. Some people call it the "hidden crack". I agree with you that the Alien is "Psycho Pro" at best. It's a good place to put one's foot.

 

Greg, if I came out in support for hot dogs, apple pie and Chevrolet, you'd find a way to disagree with me. Now if I came out in support of gun rights...

[Greg_W]

Greg, if I came out in support for hot dogs, apple pie and Chevrolet, you'd find a way to disagree with me. Now if I came out in support of gun rights...

 

Actually, in disagreeing with you, I was simply putting my view out there on how I deal with those situations. It's all individual. I find that acknowledging the situation helps me to focus and put it out of my mind.

[Squid]

I would disagree, acknowledge the danger, tune in to the fear and move past it, and move on.

 

Dead on, Greg.

 

Kinda sounds like a quote from "Way of the Rock Warrior"

[mattp]

I believe the slot that Alex is talking about, and which Catbird calls the "hidden crack," is visible in the picture of MVS that appears just below Alex's crack about him on page 1 of this thread. It does indeed offer some sense of security here, but presents the issue of rope drag that Alex noted.

[Thinker]

I like to get SOMETHING in there just to keep the ropes from fully raking across the 'sharp' edge of the ledge in the event I fall.

[Jim]

I thought Canary was pretty tame compared to the exposure of some 5.3-5.5 climbs back east at the Gunks. Can't hurt to have that one piece in just in case you slip off the ballroom floor. Seems unlikely though.