vert Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 i am looking for a partner with alpine rock experience for climbing the multi pitch routes down in hells canyon. one wall has adjacent 120 meter routes, 600 meters in all, mid 10/upper 11 on excellant limestone. climbing with double rope experience is helpful as well as endurance. this month through april-then again oct on through are the times to go. Quote
layton Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 is that the hell's canyon bordering idaho & montana? where did you get info on this area? can't go, in skoul. sorry. Quote
EWolfe Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 My buddy in Idaho also found some killer bouldering down there. Quote
Sabertooth Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 There is bouldering too, but that area has recently seen a plethora of development of multi-pitch sport routes. I haven't been down there, but I know two of the "drillers". No guidebooks on these routes yet. Quote
southernmtguide Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 A guy by the name of Russ from Spokane has put up over 100 new routes down there. The pictures look fantastic. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 This is the hells canyon between OR and ID. I climbed some of the single-pitch sport routes there years ago. Fun stuff and not crowded at the time. Very short approach. Quote
J_Kirby Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 As an added plus, when you get done at the end of the day you can drive back down the canyon a ways and do some cliff diving right off the road. Went with some locals a few years back and it Quote
Thinker Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 I climbed there about 4 years ago. Great limestone, all bolted from what I could see. I suspect there's a lot more routes now compared to when I was there. Â Sounds like Vert has the updated scoop on the place. Please share! Quote
lummox Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 fukin long drive for some sport climbing imho. Quote
J_Kirby Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 It was a nice diversion for us on our way to the Tetons. Quote
shapp Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 I think there is more climbable rock in hells canyon than at Smith Rock, but good luck finding beta Quote
vert Posted March 19, 2004 Author Posted March 19, 2004 the routes i mentioned are my own. i have put up a 100 there as well. they differ somewhat from the 'cliche' modern top down trad. i like to ground up mine drilling from awesome hooks. they are quite safe yet remain unreapted by the new and old 'locals'. aparently, they lack challenge enough. any way that is the reason for my plea-these routes are great if you like long pitches and enjoy climbing as much vertical as you can in a weekend. i am the living guide book! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 hmm ... long multi-pitch trad routes? sweet! post again near october, 'kay? Quote
billcoe Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 Vert, is the hike in from the resevoir? How far? I'm interested, the rock in the canyon seemed chossy when I was there last, 20 years ago. I must have been in a different area. Â How about some beta? Â Thanks: Â Bill Quote
billcoe Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 Oh, does EOSC in Lagrande still have an outdoor program? Used to be some real strong alpine climbers there. Â Good luck. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 hmm ... long multi-pitch trad routes? sweet! Â They are bolted sport routes on limestone. Quote
shapp Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 Vert, If you are who I think you are (from La Grande) you are one of the only climber out there who I respect. The other wankers that have to much time and battery power on ther hands are drilling way too much (i.e. the spring mountain bolt fest). I lived out there for quite a long while and did climbed a lot all over, including Duns Bluff, and interesting stuff up in the Elkhorns that you were a part of. Thanks for being a shining star, maybe some of the new beginers in that part of the state will have someone else to look up to besides steve and the walla walla mad driller. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 They are bolted sport routes on limestone. doh! i guess i saw the word "alpine" (and somehow glazed over the word "limestone") and assumed they were trad. oops - my bad!!! Quote
Sabertooth Posted March 19, 2004 Posted March 19, 2004 Those are some pretty bold words there Dr. Shappattack. I'll make sure to mention the name Jason Shappart to the guys I know, and tell them you think their work sucks. Quote
shapp Posted March 20, 2004 Posted March 20, 2004 Go ahead Sabertooth, I have already told those individuals these things in person. I do not hide behind a fake name as so many other posters do! Â Vert are you Mark H.? Â Shap out- Quote
shapp Posted March 20, 2004 Posted March 20, 2004 One more point and I am done. I don't think that steve's routes and the mad bolters routes suck. Many of them are damn fine sport routes. The problem for me is, especially at spring mt., is that so many routes are put up, many of them extremely close together and there are many bolts near bomber natural pro. I don't want to get into a debate about this, I have already had long discussions with the route developers along time ago. It is their choice, I just disagree. My main point was that if Vert is Mark H. he is a damn fine climber by reputation and any of you out there would be stoked to share a rope with him. Quote
vert Posted March 21, 2004 Author Posted March 21, 2004 i like to keep an open mind- i have climbed a lot of routes all over out here. truth be told, granite, greenstone, columnuar? basalt, andesite and limestone covers the types out here. i just want to climb for fun, no debate no bullshit just flat out balls to the walls climbing. the kind that makes you howl! this used to be the norm for me, but bridges burn and i am hoping to find new like minded partners for here and elsewhere. the routes i have put up in hells canyon are far from trad for from sport- it just seems logical to follow the rock, and it hovers in the grades of 10 and above. so educated by the stone- and thanks for the thanks Quote
Thinker Posted March 22, 2004 Posted March 22, 2004 Here's a link to more another thread with more info about Hell's Canyon. The photo is from Kevin Pogue's website. old thread   http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing_areas.html see #12---Hell's Canyon   Shapp, you probably haven't made the connection yet, but you provided me enough secondhand info to find a few of the climbs in Hells Canyon 4 or so years ago. We had no idea what we were climbing, nor did we care...it was great to climb in a place where there wasn't ANYONE or anything around but rattlesnakes, quail, and a few deer. I owe you one. Quote
shapp Posted March 22, 2004 Posted March 22, 2004 Thinker, you don't happen to be Ryan P. that went to OSU? If so, dude we have some shweet big granite up by my place. You should come up and we'll do some 10 pitch routes. If this isn't Ryan you are still welcome to come up and do some sweet 10 pitch routes. send me a pm Shapp Quote
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