J_Kirby

That 32 approach sure is a lot nicer since we pulled all those trees out of it . . .

The beach from the South Jetty in Bandon down to Devil's Kitchen (State Park) is littered with all kinds of fun to climb seastacks with easy access. Some have established routes, some are vertical peanut brittle, almost all of them are fun either way.

Kill it with fire . . . spotted owls are delicious. I will try the cut and spray method on the (relatively) small grove I've got, though, since fire is somewhat frowned upon down there. Sounds pretty doable. The property actually has some sentimental value for my wife's family too, though a local basecamp is all I was really after. Some day I'll buy the cliff I've got my eye on, but that's a long ways off.

Hey Bill, I'm not on here that much these days, but I don't mind sharing a bit. My new chunk of dirt is about a quarter mile down Touchstone from the end of the pavement. Just a tiny little lot under the power lines that's barely big enough to put a trailer on, but close enough to the climbing to make the $25 a year in property tax worthwhile. I just need to clear the 6 foot tall poison ivy and it'll be good to go.

Hopefully I'll be down there enough to be helpfull on the current weather. I'm not going to be living there, just using it for a base camp of sorts. Eventually planning on developing a couple of campsites for others to use as well. It was incredibly cheap so I couldn't resist. Especially with the neighbors down there being a sort of armed neighborhood watch . . .

Acker and the Callahans are well worth the drive. I'll be closing on a tiny lot down on Touchstone Lane soon, so I'm going to be spending some time down there this winter, clearing, camping, and climbing. There are a lot of good climbing days in the Callahans during the winter so you don't really have to wait on weather. Acker is another story.

Lot's of areas centered around transportation facilities in the Northwest. It's a little spotty right now, but the list is growing. Highways and Airports mostly. Multiple returns on each shot means we're talking about point clouds that are very time consuming and expensive to manipulate. We don't shift data over our network, we just FedEx a hard drive.

Just being a smartass for sure. We do some work with Lidar data too, but nothing in the area you're looking for. Besides, when we receive data, it comes on 100+ GB hard drives. Definitely higher resolution than you're after.

Depending on point density, that's a huge point cloud. Lot's of luck with that.

I'm still setting on my wall so I'm not sure which ones will be used and which won't be. I'm not getting rid of any til there's a solid hold density and a good selection of problems.

It's definitely out there for a glorified Muppet Movie. My kids won't be seeing it until they're a bit older.

I've got more holds than bolts so I'm no help there, but I do have a couple hundred T-nuts that are leftover from my current wall. Zinc coated and four prong if you're interested.

My 2 cents. I picked up a Nordictrack Commercial 1500 from Costco for $800 for my wife. Sweet deal on a nice machine.

You're not kidding about the loose rock. I don't park directly under the slab for just that reason. Too many portable holds and general crud that comes down. I actually saw a guy pull off a fist size hold that almost clipped his belayer's shoulder. Unfortunately for the leader, the belayer was sitting on the bumper of the leader's new-ish Honda when he ducked out of the way.

We've worked with Larry on a number of projects. My experience is that if Larry says its 14411', that's what it is.

The front page of the Oregonian today says otherwise.

Saw a sign in Northern Idaho - All the tattoos you can stand - $200.

And why shouldn't they? It's the Wal-Mart of stock photography.

Dean's descent into madness is tracking pretty well with his alter ego - Tom Cruise.

The first line on the T&A website: "T&A Supply Company, Inc. has been servicing the Northwest since 1960"

Hey Goldenchild, I didn't opt for the duodess on my supersafe. I figured for the money it would have some sort of durable middle mark. Guess Mammut was a little too cheap for that, because the standard Supersafes only had a tiny 1" Mammut logo at the midpoint when I bought mine. If I get another it'd be a triodess. Different weaves at the mid 10' and at each end. Much more stupid proof.

I haven't found that to be the case. My 10.2 Supersafe has lasted a lot longer without fuzzing than any Bluewater, Edelweis or Sterling ropes I've used. I guess if you want to compare apples and apples, my two Mammuts, the 10.2 and a 10.5 have both been used for cragging in basically the same general areas over the years and the Supersafe has performed much better. Not sure if its worth the extra money or not, but I sure like it.

I talked to my SF agent here in Portland about the same thing last year. The figure he gave me was one year of no climbing for any insurance that they had to do underwriting on. All their questionaires at the time asked whether you have done a number of risky activities in "the last 12 months." I opted not to do it at the time and work around it through my insurance at work that didn't require underwriting.

While a clean pour against a treated board is a good thing, some of these points are a little off. Keeping the pavement from “pounding down” needed to be done when the asphalt section was built, i.e. using adequate base rock and compaction. A treated board won’t perform any load transfer between the two materials. The clean concrete joint is a definite plus for paving, though. Even a bad paver can match a nicely formed concrete edge. There is no real interlock between the concrete and the asphalt to speak of. The asphalt edge will pull away from the concrete within a year or two and leave a small joint between the two. Whether this joint is a hairline or is wide open depends on what kind of climate and soil conditions are present. One other plus of using a board between the two is the ease of cleaning up the inevitable slop over of concrete slurry onto the pavement next to the edge of the pour. A bit of sweeping will clean off the board while the pavement will show the concrete slop until it actually wears off the asphalt surface.

I've got two Queen mattress size crash pads that I made myself for less than the cost of a Cordless. I went down to Fred Meyer and bought two cheap plastic mattress covers, a roll of duct tape, a package of grommets, and a giant stack of foam "camping pads." I bought the pads (really just sleeping bag sized pieces of 3" foam in varying densities) in the fall when they were closing them out and got a great deal. A lot of times when you’re buying that many, they’ll give you the lowest advertised cost they have listed in the computer, which is what I got anyway. I trimmed the pads and lapped/layered them against each other and slid into the mattress covers tightly to prevent holes or dead spots in the finished pad. The hardest densities went on top and the softest at the bottom. I installed the grommets around the edges of the pad covers to prevent blowouts and zipped the pads inside the covers. The duct tape I used to reinforce the cover around the grommets and to patch the covers when they get torn. My crash pads have been in service for several years now, and though they are covered in duct tape patches, they continue to catch falls from the ceiling of my garage and keep me from cratering into the concrete floor.