slothrop Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Climb: The Rope - Washing the Filthy Bastard (10.5, 60m, FWA?) Date of Climb: 3/16/2004 Trip Report: I had been eyeing this line for a while, but I felt it was better saved for a bad-weather day. I knew I'd be hard-pressed to find a partner for the sufferfest I was expecting... Washing the Filthy Bastard is the kind of route everyone wants to say they've done, but I could tell it wouldn't be the most enjoyable experience. But, like the man sez, it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. I felt strong, and was mentally prepared for a solo ascent. The approach was no sweat, since I'd done it countless times over the years: cross through the Kitchen, contour right, and you're there. Before I knew it, I was starting up the first pitch. At first, all was well, but then the visibility went to shit: Hoping the upper pitches would be above the dark cloud that now enveloped the route, I quickly pressed on. The first section of the route is mostly a dirty squeeze, but a speedy ascent demanded use of every move I could think of, from hands to elbow-deep rattly wet jams. Some aid gear, for example an FLWM (front-loading washing machine), would have greatly eased the difficulty of the climb and saved me some time, too, but my strong sense of ethics demanded a clean free ascent. Some forgettable climbing led to the mental crux of the route: The Rinse. Careful observation of the climb from the ground had led me to believe that The Rinse would only be a couple tedious pitches, but as it turns out, it was more like four or five. And what a slog! The moves were repetitive and boring, but visibility was improving markedly: Eventually I was staring up at the summit, just minutes away. In front of me, though, was a sopping mess. I used my entire rack on this final pitch and emerged, dripping but triumphant, on top: An easy walk-off descent makes this a reasonable one-day climb. I was back at The Desk, drinking coffee and spraying away, in no time. I believe I have made the first winter ascent of this route (not that anyone would want to waste their time on it in the summer). Gear Notes: Sterling rope wash pro to 60 gallons (bathtub-size), though you can get by with one #5 bucket plenty of water Quote
Billygoat Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Way to commit to the route! Timing is everything in this game we play Goat Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 I can see in one of those pictures your "spray" is actually visible Quote
lummox Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 dude. you got to submit that first photo to ratemypoo.com Quote
slothrop Posted March 17, 2004 Author Posted March 17, 2004 Thank you, lummox, for that bold interpretation of photo #1. Quote
JoshK Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Hahaha...this is one of the best things I've read on this board! Quote
cracked Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Excellent TR! That's not a Mammut Flash is it? That rope is THE DEVIL! Quote
slothrop Posted March 17, 2004 Author Posted March 17, 2004 It is indeed the Mammut Flash, erstwhile holder of the title "Rope That's On Sale at REI". What's yer beef with it, eh? Quote
cracked Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Fat, the one I've used had MAJOR sheath slippage, gets fuzzy fast, poor hand, kinda mushy. It also gets kinky quite easily. Other than at, it's a decent rope. I like the Galaxy more. Quote
RuMR Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 its only cuz you weigh 4 metric tons...any rope your fallin/hangin on is gonna get worked... my heart goes out to that poor little rope... Quote
Thadsboner Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 (edited) here is my ascent, it was a chossy mess though. Edited March 17, 2004 by gapertimmy Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 Thanks for editting that Timmy. I'm not one that usually approves of censorship, but that was just dumb and gross. Quote
gapertimmy Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 only problem CBS... i was eating yogurt when you sent the email to check that post out. i guess i don't have to pack a lunch for tomorrow though! Quote
MrDoolittle Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 "HONEY!! CALL THE DOCTOR!!! THAT COFFEE ENEMA JUST LOOSENED UP EVERYTINHG!!!!!" Quote
sk Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 only problem CBS... i was eating yogurt when you sent the email to check that post out. i guess i don't have to pack a lunch for tomorrow though! eeee gads I am glad I missed it Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2004 Posted March 17, 2004 The Pacific Bathtub Octopus, Octropus mammutus eurekii, is most often found lurking in dimly lit bathtubs, although they are supple and have infiltrated much of the plumbing in the Pacific Northwest. When surprised or displeased they will eject a venomous brown ink as a defense. This ink is the most common source of "bathtub rings" and should only be removed by a properly trained hygienist... Quote
slothrop Posted March 18, 2004 Author Posted March 18, 2004 C'mon, someone say it. "Dropping coils." Oh, I forgot. All the potty-mouthed spraybots are getting drunk in Banned Kamp and can't come to the computer right now. Quote
Thadsboner Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 Step 1: Instead of ass say buns, like "kiss my buns" or "you're a buns hole" Step 2: Instead of shit say poo, as in "bull poo", "poo head" and this "poo is cold" Step 3: With bitch drop the t cuz bich is latin for generosity Step 4: Dont say fuck any more cuz fuck is the worst word that you can say So just use the word mmkay! Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 18, 2004 Posted March 18, 2004 C'mon, someone say it. "Dropping coils." Oh, I forgot. All the potty-mouthed spraybots are getting drunk in Banned Kamp and can't come to the computer right now. Slothrop, you'll have to follow up with a "Bathtub Ring TR". Those can be heinously difficult to surmount. Yet for the sake of girlfriend, SO, wife, prevail you must. Quote
slothrop Posted March 18, 2004 Author Posted March 18, 2004 I've been training for that one by washing dishes, but a dirty bathtub is to a few cups and bowls like the Willis Wall is to Da Toof. My hands sweat just thinking about it. Quote
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