Boston Basin question

[Rodchester]

I know that overnight camping in the Basin requires a permit year round.

 

But what I want to know is, when is the high season for the area when permits become difficult to obtain? ROUGHLY when does it become a pain to get permits?

 

Also regarding Forbidden Peak (West, East and North Ridges): Is there a time in the early season when one can USUALLY get a permit when these routes are USAULLY in "season-shape?"

 

Also, any opinions on each or any of these ridge routes is appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

[chucK]

If you do the N Ridge, you can camp on near the N Ridge and though you still need a permit, it is easier to get than Boston Basin. I don't think there are any quotas. When we did it, we were able to self-register for that area. Also, as the rules were then (1999?) If you camped out of BB the first night, you could camp anywhere (BB for example) the next night.

[Stefan]

Geordie told me last year that less than 5 days out of the whole year before July 10 was the quota reached for the maximum amount of people in Boston Basin. If you ever go during the week I don't think you will ever have a problem.

 

The road does not usually open up until July 4th. Sometimes it is a pain to walk the road for a couple of miles--I recommend taking a bike if you decide to go in June which I think is the best time because of the amount of snow and less rock hopping. Although traditionally after July 4th the weather is more reliabale.

[ncascadesranger]

Rodchester et al - There actually are quotas for the permit zones on all sides of Forbidden Pk, but the Boston Basin permit gets all the attention for obvious reasons - being the closest access and the one most people are seeking. It is true though that even in prime summer, and esp in June there are, more often than not, permits available for BB during the week. Just try to avoid Sat night.

 

About the road - usually open all the way at least by July 4, but this year may be an exception. The upper road sustained damage and may be closed at Eldorado Cr longer than usual, but we should know more about the repair schedule in another month. The Cascade Rd overall faired better than many in the Oct storm, but in the upper mile failed at each of Boston, Midas and Morning Star Creeks.

 

If you have more questions about the permits or want to keep posted about the various roads, pls consider calling the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount at (360) 873-4590. Try x35 or 38 now; after May 1, x39.

[jja]

forgive me if this is completely obvious, but the west and east ridge routes on forbidden can easily be done car to car.

[John Frieh]

Best time I heard was car to car in 6 hours. Generally people manage this climb in a day, but there are newbies out there unfamiliar with going light and fast, simulclimbing (which isn't necessary but will greatly reduce time on route), route finding, etc. so the best answer I can give is it depends on you. I could give you a better answer if you could provide some other climbs with times you have done.

[Ursa_Eagle]

We managed to turn the West Ridge into a three-day mini-epic, including an unplanned bivy at the notch. We also had no problem getting a permit for Friday and Saturday nights in late June last year.

[mattp]

You are correct that the routes can be done in a day, JJA, but I wouldn't bandy about the word "easily" without some qualifiers: you've got be be both fit and competent at that level of climbing difficulty.

 

Granted, we're not talking about the North Face of Bear Mountain here, but I bet MOST parties that climb the West Ridge find the approach to the ridge, and the ridge itself, quite challenging; I bet they also find the hike up from the road quite taxing.

 

The West Ridge of Forbidden is an alpine route for novice alpine climbers, and the East Ridge is really no more than that. I'd venture a guess that relatively few of the people interested in this route are either interested in or in any sensible use of the term capable of pulling it off in a single day.

[Rodchester]

The individual that is going to follow and clean is fairly new to alpine climbing and I haven't been in the area (believe it or not) and so the first time into the area I would like to do a bivy/camp in the basin.

 

I figure once I'm familar with the area I'll come back and do the other ridges in a day (one day at a time of course).

 

Anyone done the Southeast Ridge on Sharkfin Tower? Would this be an easier one-day intro to the area? Nelson says it goes at 5.0 and is 2-5 hours from the Basin.

 

Also, for the North Ridge, is there a better way to approach and camp in another Basin? Or at least easier to get permits to camp in another area? Options? Ideas?

 

Thanks to all.

[Alex]

North Ridge Forbidden is also done in a day car to car. DPS and MVS had a good day out on this last year, I believe.

 

Alex

[Bronco]

Anyone done the Southeast Ridge on Sharkfin Tower? Would this be an easier one-day intro to the area? Nelson says it goes at 5.0 and is 2-5 hours from the Basin.

 

I climbed it a couple years ago, stopping to TR the top pitch of the "sport route" in about 10 hours car to car. Pretty easy day trip.

[Ben]

Also, for the North Ridge, is there a better way to approach and camp in another Basin? Or at least easier to get permits to camp in another area? Options? Ideas?

 

There are decent bivy spots on the "toe" of the North ridge. Using these makes for a casual, 2 day trip. Spend day one reaching the bivy spots (budget a half day, depending on how fast you are). Spend day two climbing and descending. That side of the mountain is beautiful, and never as crowded as Boston Basin. It's well worth spending the night there. Yes this means a carryover, but the climbing on the ridge really isn't hard enough to worry about it, even for relative newbies.

[goatboy]

In response to your question about Sharkfin, it's a magnificent (though short) climb on solid rock with great views of the Boston Glacier and Mt Buckner.

 

The approach up the steep snow couloir, depending on how melted out that is and the condition of the moat at the bottom, may well prove more challenging than the Ridge climb itself.

 

Time on route: Once we reached the notch on sharkfin ridge (the base of the route) -- which took us about 1.5 hours from the low camp at Boston Basin -- we simulclimbed the ridge itself in about 30 minutes. Descending via rappels took about another 45 or an hour, I believe.

 

I hear that the North Face route (opposite the South Ridge) on Sharfin is a solid, pleasant few pitches of 5.7 -- my friend did it the same day we were up on the South Ridge.

 

The rock on Sharkfin tower is so unbelievably good, especially considering how close it is to Boston Peak, which sports "improbably bad" rock similar to oatmeal.

 

I think you're smart to plan on doing these routes out of a high camp in Boston Basin before trying to blast any of them in a day with a novice partner. The # of times I've seen (or been) a party epic-ing on or near Forbidden Peak is mythical.

 

Have fun, what a spectacular place -- one suggestion: camp at the high camp (right below the south face of Forbidden) rather than lower down in the basin. It's less crowded and closer to Forbidden Peak objectives, and higher up in case you decide to climb over to Sharkfin or Sahale.

[jshamster]

I got a permit on the night of July 3rd for Boston Basin.

Climbed W. ridge Forbidden July 4th with only a party of two for company.

I camped instead of car-to-car because it's a magnificent place to bivy.

Have fun.

[ivan]

You are correct that the routes can be done in a day, JJA, but I wouldn't bandy about the word "easily" without some qualifiers: you've got be be both fit and competent at that level of climbing difficulty.

 

Granted, we're not talking about the North Face of Bear Mountain here, but I bet MOST parties that climb the West Ridge find the approach to the ridge, and the ridge itself, quite challenging; I bet they also find the hike up from the road quite taxing.

 

agree w/ this...i feel pretty confident in simul-climbing but am hardly a speed demon on the approach...both ridges i've climbed on forbidden i did in a day, but both times got back to the car well after dark, quite tired.

 

i think maybe i'm scared of the 6 hour folk...wow, the scenery alone demands a slower pace