whirlwind Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 what are the easyest climbs for there grade: exasparator 10c outerspace 5.9 (easy but alot of fun) gilivers crack 5.8 ... Quote
chucK Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 i.e. climbs at Index that are rated like they were at Squamish Quote
cracked Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 Anything new at Flagstone. It's the only place where I've seen 5.8 called 10a. With a bolt every three feet. Quote
specialed Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 what are the easyest climbs for there grade: exasparator 10c outerspace 5.9 (easy but alot of fun) gilivers crack 5.8 ... Â Exasperator isn't overrated if you don't have little mini fingers and toes. I'd say its right on to underrated even. Givler's crack's never been 5.8, always .7. And that traverse pitch on Outer is legit 5.9. You're just straight wrong today homes. Quote
tomtom Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 Anything new at Flagstone. It's the only place where I've seen 5.8 called 10a. With a bolt every three feet. Exit 38 Quote
scott_harpell Posted February 17, 2004 Posted February 17, 2004 what are the easyest climbs for there grade: exasparator 10c outerspace 5.9 (easy but alot of fun) gilivers crack 5.8 ... Â Exasperator isn't overrated if you don't have little mini fingers and toes. I'd say its right on to underrated even. Givler's crack's never been 5.8, always .7. And that traverse pitch on Outer is legit 5.9. You're just straight wrong today homes. Â Ditto. I was tips on exasperator. O.S. has some solid 9 climbing on the traverse pitch. One move was pretty intimidating. Quote
layton Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 I led exasperator as one pitch two weeks out of the wheelchair you pussies Quote
whirlwind Posted February 18, 2004 Author Posted February 18, 2004 my hands arn't that small, exasperator is easy the secound pitch is like 10-15 ft of side pull it is thin but after that there is a good rest every 2 moves. where u the one i saw putting gear in every 3-or 4 ft? gilivers i though was 5.8 in the washiton climbing guide the traverse pitch isn't that bad on outer space skechy for gear maybe but the moves are fairly easy Quote
max Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 I thumbed the leavenworth section of the Rcok Climbing Washington and picked out (most of) the 5.9 crack/face climbing typical of the pitch in question (ok, I'm GOING to do this and I may have to relax some perameters...) Â -Poison Ivcy Crack. Same. -Black Sheets of Rain. Ok, this is obviously not a traversing crack climb, but it is at least worth pointing out BSoR is much harder and WAY scarier! So this one counnts as Harder. -Deception. Shorter and no harder, and no real gear issues. I'd say the same. -Orbit. Just a bit harder climbing (just a tiny amount) and similar amuunts of it. The Same. _lightning Crack at peshastin. OK, this ones 5.8, but I think the little roof thing one the first pitch is much more scary and nervy than OS. So Like Black sheets of rain, Harder. Â So what's this add up to? (looking at this list, I want to say "not much") ANyways, Considering Lightning crack was thre only crack climb I could think of that was comperably graded and harder, and that climb is definately one-move-wonder material, AND, I seem to find steeper climbs less problematic than my peers. SO I's say OS is grade just fine. Â Now, squamish. I've got a sheet of paper listing most of my squamish climbs. Again, only the similar climbs (mostly, not sport or slabs...) Â -Mushroom. Harder. -A cream of White Mice. Harder. Just a bit. -Lybia sucks. Shorter, same, maybe just a bnit harder. Same. -Clandestine Affair Harder. -Penny Lane. Same. Maybe a just a bit easier. -JHoes Crack. Harder. Â So, 1. The squamish soft grades... I'd still have to say I think squamish is soft, but that's not what these examples say (of course, for a more statisticly powerful test, we need more than one L'worth climb. 2. I feel combining the result that squam 5.9's are generally harder than OS and that squam 5.9's seem "soft" to me, I'd say OS is overrated, that is, easier than it's rated. Quote
specialed Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 my hands arn't that small, exasperator is easy the secound pitch is like 10-15 ft of side pull it is thin but after that there is a good rest every 2 moves. where u the one i saw putting gear in every 3-or 4 ft? gilivers i though was 5.8 in the washiton climbing guide the traverse pitch isn't that bad on outer space skechy for gear maybe but the moves are fairly easy  10-15 ft. thin sidepull = 10c. Smoots wrong as usual, and 5.9 is easy, but its still 5.9. Quote
Dru Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 OMFG Max, Lybia Sucks is a 5.7 "harder" ya sure Quote
Alex Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 Manic Nirvana at Smith is not 10c..max 10a. Â Alex Quote
sobo Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 ...-Black Sheets of Rain. Ok, this is obviously not a traversing crack climb, but it is at least worth pointing out BSoR is much harder and WAY scarier! So this one counnts as Harder. Â Ya gotta be kidding? Fairly graded as is. And there's a bolt, like, every 5 or 6 feet, and the smears are bomber. Â _lightning Crack at peshastin. OK, this ones 5.8, but I think the little roof thing one the first pitch is much more scary and nervy than OS. So Like Black sheets of rain, Harder. Â My book sez the thrashador bulge move halfway up the first pitch is 5.9, so... fairly graded as is. The second pitch is 5.7 or easy 8. Quote
dberdinka Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 ....SO I's say OS is grade just fine......I'd say OS is overrated, that is, easier than it's rated. Â So which one is it Max? Are you still studying the mathematics down there or have you swithced to politcal science? Â IMHO Outer Space seems just fine the way it is! Quote
sobo Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 IMHO Outer Space seems just fine the way it is! Â Hear, hear! Agreed. And now, to lunch! Quote
Greg_W Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 I thought the crux on "Rock On" in Squamish felt more like Index 5.9 than .10a. Quote
fern Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 who cares? either climb it (1) or don't (0) ... binary system  5.7 vs 5.8? 5.9 vs 5.10a? gimmeabreak it's the new mackallenium and you're niggling over stuff peeps was soloing in the 1930s! Quote
Dru Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 honey pot at smith is more like 5.7 or 5.8 than 10a Quote
colt45 Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 Ahh, splitting hairs on route grades...it's almost as much fun as climbing... Â Anyway, how about Heart of the Country at Index? The "11a" section is super short, and seems easier than similar low/mid 10's like Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, etc. Â Maybe my hands happen to be the exact right size or something, I don't know... Â And I can't imagine Exasperator being any less than solid 10c. To compare to another area, it is definitely more difficult than getting to the first pair of fixed pins on Iron Horse at Index--and this section is given 10b in the Cramer guidebook. Moreover I found Exasperator only slightly easier than the crux of Serenity Crack at Yosemite (10d, originally rated 5.11). Quote
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