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What is Climbing coming to?


robertm

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Check this bullshit out... this is from movingoverstone.com Is our wilderness in 10 or 20 years going to be nothing more than a fucking disneyland? "Sorry Sir step back... this climb is reserved for the next month for paying clients" You can see the deForest Service and Park Service getting involved too... perhaps concessioning areas or routes to paying companies.

 

Location: High Sierra, California When: 5 days to suit your schedule Number of people: 1-3 Cost: $6000 private $5000 for 2 or 3 Want to join a major first ascent? The South Face of Charlotte Dome was chosen as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

 

Among all these, Charlotte Dome is the Queen of Sierra domes, at once familiar and aloof. We all know its profile among Fifty Classic Climbs, yet with the gear-hauling approach, miles off trail and thousands of feet up into the back country, its daunting size with compact rock lacking an obvious crack line, and potential to wander off-route, few have actually set foot on its summit. Yet the thousand-foot south face is rated an accessible 5.7. This July, Moving Over Stone will reduce those obstacles between you and the summit of Charlotte Dome. Start with the logistics: rope and rack waiting at the bottom of the climb, camp kitchen and hot meals poised nearby, and a leader for your rope with the route freshly in mind. You still have to hike every step of the approach, but with half the load and without getting lost in the manzanita along Charlotte Creek.

All yours will be discovering every stem and mantle of this long route, enjoying the textured orange granite and rock just doesn't get any better and the views of the high country from the belays.

We'll take care of the descent, and a glass of wine to celebrate will be waiting back in camp.

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IMHO

 

Guiding= someone to help me with directions, map stuff, Make sure I don't get my ass lost. Teach advanced skills. Friend or paid person to guide...

 

Guiding does not mean having some paid jerk off willing to wipe my ass, set up my tent, cook my food or teach me how to do shots... I already know how to do that [Wink]

 

???? Has anyone spent much time on a river??? For some reason this is reminding me of river rafting... Guided trips etc???

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quote:

Originally posted by sk:

Guiding does not mean having some paid jerk off willing to wipe my ass...

You are right, sk, there are fetish websites that can help you on this better than cc.com; might want to visit one of those.

 

[Wink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Greg W:

quote:

Originally posted by sk:

Guiding does not mean having some paid jerk off willing to wipe my ass...

You are right, sk, there are fetish websites that can help you on this better than cc.com; might want to visit one of those.

 

[Wink]
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear... I don't want some paid jerk off willing to wipe my ass etc... I like strong men who arn't for sale [Wink][Razz]
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quote:

Originally posted by Winter:

Free men do the best ass wiping then.

NO NO NO!!!! I can wipe my own bum, Thanx [Razz] I just need a nice strong man arround who can read a freaking map. That I can NOT do. It's been said about me that I can get lost in my own back yard [big Grin] , Paid or unpaid, either will do. I just think that it is more fun if you don't pay for the whole "experience". seems like it's buying friends IMHO.

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So, I've read this rumor of a great new plum ready to be picked on Charlotte Dome. Half the route has already been climbed, so it's not like it's totally virgin. And then there's the problem of the crowds who are on the dome every summer weekend because the regular route is one of the most popular backcountry routes in the Sierra. And route finding could be problematic since you can climb practically anywhere on the face (hell, it may have been climbed already). Then there's the need to get on it fast because there's bound to be a stampede since movingoverstone.com is spraying about it all.

Anyways, I've got a couple weeks free in early June if anyone wants to poach this climb.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I have not used a map in quite some time. However they are a good idea if nobody knows the area.

If its clear enough to see where you are going you dont need a map, and if it isnt clear enough to see where you're going the map will be worthless anyways [Roll Eyes]

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Yeah Yeah guiding sucks. But there'll always be areas and places people just aint gunna go to for one reason or the other. It sucks when guides take dumbasses to "secret" or unspoiled areas but sounds like this Charlotte dome was already pretty popular. So inevitably some retard will try to guide the even more retarded up it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I have not used a map in quite some time. However they are a good idea if nobody knows the area.

If its clear enough to see where you are going you dont need a map, and if it isnt clear enough to see where you're going the map will be worthless anyways
[Roll Eyes]
You can wipe your own ass with your map. [Mad]

 

[ 05-07-2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

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quote:

Originally posted by sk:

I just need a nice strong man arround who can read a freaking map. That I can NOT do. It's been said about me that I can get lost in my own back yard
[big Grin]

Is that a NEED or a WANT? It seems you are implying that said strong man must also fill other prerequisite duties, as being strong has absolutely nothing to do with the ability to read a map.

 

quote:

Originally posted by sk:

Paid or unpaid, either will do. I just think that it is more fun if you don't pay for the whole "experience". seems like it's buying friends IMHO.

Guides aren't paid to be your friends - they're paid for the skills and knowledge they possess, and to do the job you hire them for.

 

[ 05-07-2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

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NO SHIT!! This is from the same website. If hiking in isn't your bag he'll fly you there! Well to the Palisades at least.

 

"During my early years there, I stumbled across an abandoned trail that opens a back door into the high basin of the Palisades... We will transfer to four wheel drives on Saturday morning August 8 to get to the roadhead. From an old cow camp on Baker Creek, we begin to hike. A faint track through sage brush will seem umpromising at first, but it leads over a ridge to suddenly reveal the finest view of this cirque available anywhere. Breaking the journey (which is already easier than the usual trail climbing up Big Pine Creek....

 

This unusual approach opens up one further possibility that is even more exotic? flying to the Palisades. Up on Coyote Flat is a military airstrip, formerly secret but now wide open, where generations of jet and helicopter pilots have trained for high altitude landings. If you like, we'll arrange a charter flight with our friend Hart Drobish, who is the most experienced bush pilot in the Sierra, buzzing the Palisades summits just before landing. Call for details."

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quote:

Originally posted by jkrueger:

[as being strong has absolutely nothing to do with the ability to read a map.

... they're paid for the skills and knowledge they possess, and to do the job you hire them for.[/QB]

1) Strength of mind is important in map reading, or at least so I understand. Strength in body is important in that I have enough trouble hauling my own ass where ever I want to go. Can't realy be helping the "map reader" now can I?

 

2)For a guide yes I would expect to pay for their skills. My point is that if I can't haul my own shit, and need someone to carry it for me I don't think I belong on the mountain. I believe that it is advantagious to hire a guid if you plan on being someplace you are unfamiluar with say India, or Africa... I am saying that I would not hire a guide to take me up a rock that I can damn well climb myself, or to throw the "party" for me after I make it. I think the important thing in rock climbing and maybe even Alpine is to do the work to learn the skills. If you don't and you just pay someone to do it for you than you are a total pouser.

 

Now come home I just made cookies [big Grin]

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No offense to reputable guides, but it seems mountaineering is going the way of prostitution - anyone with the greenbacks can get a little.

 

I guess it just depends if you're into it for the thrill of the chase, or you just want to get your rocks off! [laf]

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I have to say that what Dru states is not always correct. Bushwhack for hours in a creek drainage or thick woods and a map is great. It's hard to see sometimes and ridges and spurs look the same or are hard to decipher between sometimes. [big Drink]

 

[ 05-07-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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quote:

Originally posted by sk:

Strength of mind is important in map reading, or at least so I understand. Strength in body is important in that I have enough trouble hauling my own ass where ever I want to go. Can't realy be helping the "map reader" now can I?

Ummm... I think you need a map to my point. [big Grin]

 

You said a strong man was needed to read the map, and the only reason I can come up with for that one is so he's all the better to gape at!

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"All of this will be packed into a week in the wilderness, supported by a basecamp well stocked with food, climbing gear and even a keg of microbrew, and offering the opportunity to climb three of the high summits, if the weather holds."

 

As much as I love beer, and love beer in the woods even more - drinking beer that you have to pay for just ain't right. And this does sound alot like whitewater rafting trips. Or flyfishing trips. Or Everest climbs.

 

Carl

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