Selected Climbs, Vol. II

[pms]

Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield are updating volume II of their Cascade climbing guide for a reprint. If you've noticed anything in that guide book that is incorrect or out of date, the authors would welcome a response. Simply reply to this post with any updates so that we can keep the guide book current. Thanks everyone.

[chucK]

Silent Running now has a seventh pitch (a really good one too).

Edited January 29, 2004 by chucK

[robertm]

As previously mentioned I would suggest a more direct approach from the Maude-7FJ Col.... dropping only about 100-200 feet and cutting straight across to access the N. Face. I would also strongly suggest changing the descent description to the ascent standard trail as the all descent gullys from top of Maude are loose and dangerous and don't save that much time.

[robertm]

Another one... on Jberg. I would change the descent description slightly. One should stay as close to the Ridge crest as possible for most of the descent. From the current description we dropped down to far initially but in reality you don't drop at all from the summit notch you just stay on the E. ridge crest which is very cool (ridge running 3rd class)

[catbirdseat]

I would agree with that. It's easier with less loose rock (less being relative) and its more fun.

[goatboy]

The Photos of the Banks Lake ice climbs are mis-labeled, from what I can tell. The one labelled Absent Minded Professor appears to be Zenith, from what I can tell having been to Banks just once, with the Washington Ice Climbs book.

 

Local Banks climbers please correct me if I'm wrong.

[layton]

On page 207 for Mt Baker, you have a line going straight through the coleman icefall. That would take days.

 

I would add Yoccum on Hood becuause it is a much desired climb in a largely populated area, not in the beckey or kearney guides and gets a crap description elsewhere.

[goatboy]

Yocum Ridge is already included in Nelson's Vol I. Second Edition.

[Sabertooth]

Yocum Ridge is already included in Nelson's Vol I. Second Edition.

 

That's not Yocum Ridge. It's the couloir on the side of the ridge. It would nice to see a more detailed description about the ridgecrest climb itself including the three gendarmes and the upper buttress.

 

One obvious error is Devils Punch Bowl is listed as grade III. A 1 pitch WI2+ with a 5 minute appraoch is Grade I.

 

Another thing that I'd like to see corrected is grade inflation. Locally accepted grades like a 5.7+ for Givlers Crack and a 5.8 for Orbit should be used, not different ones.

 

Just my 2 cents.

[Gary_Yngve]

For Sloan's Corkscrew Route, I think the approach from Bedal Creek is better, mainly because you don't have to do that river crossing.

[layton]

The approach to Greybeard's N.Face should not be done on skiis (youch!) and isn't a grade III approach, more like a grade II (only an hour or so). See Colin's descent info on his solo TR for a good way off.

[Stefan]

I know Mt. Goode is not in Vol II; however, if the authors decide to put NE Buttress of Mt. Goode in future editions, then that is fine, but please do not recommend the Bedayn Couloir as a descent as it says for one option in the first edition. The Bedayn Couloir is horrendous for a rappel--and I wish no one to do this descent route. The Southeast Ridge Descent as described in Beckey #2 is a much better rappel/descent choice.

[mattp]

Downclimbing the route is a heck of a good option for Goode.

 

Yokum Ridge IS in the second edition of Volume 1.

Edited February 2, 2004 by mattp

[Cpt.Caveman]

Please consider the option of taking and documenting the details for the eastern approach to Maude NF instead of the 7FG Maude col.

 

I dont have a 2 book or any more of my SCC books since people\friends have borrowed them...

 

They are nice books.

[Stephen_Ramsey]

I would also strongly suggest changing the descent description to the ascent standard trail as the all descent gullys from top of Maude are loose and dangerous and don't save that much time.

Dear Jim,

 

Great guidebooks! Thanks for all your hard work.

 

Concurring with the above comment...It might be a good idea to put a cautionary note in the book, pertaining to the west gully descent route for Maude (where it says in the text, "turn left (west) and descend a gully system"). It seems like it is easy for folks to get into sketchy terrain on that descent route. We ended up doing some sketchy down-climbing, and a few raps on gear. Second time around, we walked down the South Ridge and saved some gear and lots of time. In fairness, we were almost certainly off-route when we tried to descend the gully system...

 

One other thing that confused me about Maude: If I recall correctly, the book says to "turn left onto Chiwawa River Road." But I think the sign at the turn-off actually says "Meadow Creek Road". Maybe the sign is wrong? I don't know what the road is actually called. But it might be helpful to make a note of it, in the new version.

 

Also, the Entiat Icefall route on Mount Maude would be a great addition to the book. In late season, it is a really fun and moderate alpine climb. It has some nice rock scrambling along the East Ridge as well as fun glacier climbing through the icefall.

 

Cheers,

Steve Ramsey

Edited February 3, 2004 by Stephen_Ramsey

[peterp]

About the Goode descent: That was fixed in the second edition of Volume I, which came out last year. Back in 1990, when we first wrote Volume I of the guidebook, everybody went down the Bedayne. And it sucks for sure, I've been in it. That's why we're soliciting suggestions for the reprint of Volume II, we're always looking for the best, newest information. So thanks everyone. Peter P.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Back in 1990, when we first wrote Volume I of the guidebook, everybody went down the Bedayne. And it sucks for sure, I've been in it.

 

I climbed Goode three times prior to 1990 and never went down the Bedayn couloir. On one of those trips I left a description of the preferred descent route (down the upper NE buttress then over the SE ridge into the SW gully) in the summit register. Later I provided the information to Fred Beckey and it appeared in CAG-2, 2nd edition, 1989, p. 316 ("Southeast Ridge Descent"). Fred's description is a little different than I remember (I recall a long rappel rather than a short descending traverse to the ledge leading to Black Tooth notch) but he described it as the "shortest descent."

[pms]

Thanks everybody. These are all very helpfull, but I know there are more details we can clean up. Please let us have it. Sorry about screwing up the Maude approach and descent info. and a few other things, but your suggestions can really help.

 

Please post your suggestions here, or you can email us at info@ProMountainSports.com

 

Cheers,

 

Jim Nelson

[goatboy]

The approach to Greybeard's N.Face should not be done on skiis (youch!) and isn't a grade III approach, more like a grade II (only an hour or so). See Colin's descent info on his solo TR for a good way off.

 

What's the reason for not doing it on skis? Seems to me that it would depend on snow conditions, depth, temperature, etc.

 

I personally never approach anything on skis because I can't ski well and I'm too lazy to learn, but I know that some people prefer it . . . Just curious about the reason for this suggestion.

 

Steve

[dberdinka]

I'm gonna sound whiney but.....the cover shot is lame

 

Guy doing overhanging rappel in Tatoosh Range. Carrying no gear to speak of, maybe crampons? (don't have it in front of me)

 

Maybe there really is some peak there that requires overhanging rappell to get off of.

 

Maybe he left all his gear at the base and is now returning to it.

 

The impression it leaves however is...staged photo shoot of sport rappeller. Lame. Might look good in REI catalog.

 

There are plenty of good photographs and photographers out there. Use a shot of someone(s) actually climbing, preferrably on something a little grander, maybe even something in the book?!

[layton]

The approach to Greybeard's N.Face should not be done on skiis (youch!) and isn't a grade III approach, more like a grade II (only an hour or so). See Colin's descent info on his solo TR for a good way off.

 

What's the reason for not doing it on skis? Seems to me that it would depend on snow conditions, depth, temperature, etc.

 

I personally never approach anything on skis because I can't ski well and I'm too lazy to learn, but I know that some people prefer it . . . Just curious about the reason for this suggestion.

 

Steve

 

There are a shitload of trees on the approach and if you're postholing, then the face probably isn't in good shape anyways. Going back through those trees on skiis would be awful.

[Kyle_Flick]

Other than the creek crossing higher up, skis work fine. Also skis give you the option of ski touring instead if the north face isn't in condition. Easy Pass and the surrounding area make for fine turns. This is what we did when it was too warm on our first attempt.

[JoshK]

Here are just a couple of nitpicks...not sure if this is the type of stuff you're looking for.

 

*Cutthroat peak, east coulior

minor suggestion,but it may be worth noting that since the route gets the morning sun, and you'll be most likely climbing in april/may, an early start is esential. Climbers should plan to be at the bottom of the coulior as the sun rises unless you get a really cold day. Ya also might want to add pins specifically to the gear list. I know it says rock pro, but considering we used pins almost exclusively, the tip may help.

 

*Sherpa Peak, North Ridge

May be worth a note that the NR can be easily climbed from the standard camp in upper mountaineer creek beneath the sherpa glacier as well as the mentioned basin. We chose this approach since the "trail" is much more maintained due to the stuart traffic.

 

*Whitehorse Mountain

Ya may want to add an approach note about the Mine road...it's getting pretty beat up. Getting up it in a standard clearance vehicle is probably pretty difficult now. It doesn't look like the maintain it, but who knows.

 

The climbs with approaches crossing the cascade river may need a slight update too. The forest we were all used to walking through for a few hundred feet is now gone due to the rainstorm.

[layton]

Colchuck Lake sux on skiis too.

[JoshK]

Colchuck Lake sux on skiis too.

 

I dunno, I dont really mind it too much. I've always liked it better than on snowshoes. The road down is definitely easier on skis.

 

I actually had a really good run from colchuck lake down to mountainer creek once through the trees. Not sure where I went or how I got there, I just pointed down and went. It was decent skiing.