boatskiclimbsail Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Time for the carnage stories... Who else has had the pleasure of falling on a screw? Anyone have one pop? Broken ankles, arms? Any newbies with chopped ropes? Work is boring... Quote
rbw1966 Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Took a 100 foot slider down the eliot glacier ripping one of my partners off his feet and was stopped by a single screw. No damage to screw; few cracked ribs on me. Fell about 20 feet on a screw on a short ice pitch at Ski Bowl. No damage to screw; minor rope burn on finger. Never had one pull but have placed them where I wasn't too confident they'd hold. But haven't we all? Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 I called you a dolt once about a year ago and your autosig has been "I am a dolt" ever since. What's with that? I beg your forgiveness. Quote
Al_Pine Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 You flatter yourself CBS. Everyone probably calls him that! Quote
rbw1966 Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Al_Pine said: You flatter yourself CBS. Everyone probably calls him that! Exactly. Don't flatter yourself catbird. I don't place that much value on your opinions. Quote
ketch Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Always be adult, the world needs more "dults." Robin Williams Quote
Led_Hed Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 A partner of mine took a full rope length winger (ice tools flailing everywhere) from a full rope above me to a full rope length below me in the Sherpa couloir on Stewart. The only thing between us was a fluke that I had just installed before he cut loose. Thank god it held and he didn't clober me on his way down! Quote
lI1|1! Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Led_Hed said: A partner of mine took a full rope length winger (ice tools flailing everywhere) from a full rope above me to a full rope length below me in the Sherpa couloir on Stewart. The only thing between us was a fluke that I had just installed before he cut loose. Thank god it held and he didn't clober me on his way down! we have a winner! Quote
Bug Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I met a guy in Icicle canyon a few years ago who wore a T-Shirt that said "I fell 120 feet on an ice screw" and he had. It was bent at about 45 degrees. He fell off a vertical pitch. All he did was gash his forehead with his pick when he cut loose. Momma mia! Quote
JoshK Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Led_Hed said: A partner of mine took a full rope length winger (ice tools flailing everywhere) from a full rope above me to a full rope length below me in the Sherpa couloir on Stewart. The only thing between us was a fluke that I had just installed before he cut loose. Thank god it held and he didn't clober me on his way down! Wow. How in god's name did that happen? The sherpa coulior is the pretty low angle one. Did you mean the ice cliff coulior? I've heard that is fairly steepish. Quote
David_Parker Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I held a leader fall on the last pitch (pillar) of Stairway to Heaven in Provo Canyon. Partner popped and went hard on a snarg. It held fine and another guy with my camera caught him in mid air. Haven't seen too many photos of ice climbers logging air time...classic! I got to finish the pitch after that. I always wondered about snargs, but that proved they were ok. Quote
kurthicks Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I saw a guy take a 30 footer a couple weeks ago onto a medium screw clipped with a quickdraw. he lowered off and walked away. i also met a guy in Banff who said he took a 25 footer onto a spectre clipped with a screamer and it held fine. go figure. Quote
layton Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I've taken a 20 footer, but saw someone take a 90 footer on the weeping wall. he went home. Quote
mattp Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 As a concerned citizen, I feel compelled to add: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME, FOLKS!!!! (I don't know about you guys, but I'm going to see if I can avoid ever taking a fall with crampons on my feet and tools in both hands -- and I don't think I want to climb with RBW, either, because I don't want to be around when he tries it for time #3. The way I see it, RBW's tried twice to hurt himself - and the third time's the charm, right?) Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 David_Parker said: I held a leader fall on the last pitch (pillar) of Stairway to Heaven in Provo Canyon. Partner popped and went hard on a snarg. It held fine and another guy with my camera caught him in mid air. Haven't seen too many photos of ice climbers logging air time...classic! I got to finish the pitch after that. I always wondered about snargs, but that proved they were ok. So where's the picture? Quote
layton Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I taught an ice climbing class in Colorado. The days lecture was ice screws are scary, don't fall on them. To prove my point, I took one of those $15 russian screws that come with the red cap (you know the ones) and placed it near the top of the climb. On top, I filled a big ol' haul bag full of ice blocks till it was full and I couldn't lift it. Then I shoved it off the lip of the climb so it would take a massive fall onto the screw. WHAM! The screw held! So I did it again. WHAM! The screw held! So I did it again. CREAK! The screw bent. So I did it again and again and again. The fucker wouldn't come out! I rapped down and the thing was holding on by ONE THREAD. This has to be it I thought so I climbed up and dropped the haul bag again. Guess what? It held. My class was a failure and all my students now trust ice screws totally. Quote
ClimbingH Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 michael_layton said: My class was a failure and all my students now trust ice screws totally. Though only those made in USSR. Quote
Paul_detrick Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 LOL good story. I hate to say but yes I did take a fall on a screw once. 2nd pitch falling falls(im not the first) 20 ft. Everything worked just like it should have. But like Alex said its the most unkool thing you can do. Quote
Bug Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 michael_layton said: I taught an ice climbing class in Colorado. The days lecture was ice screws are scary, don't fall on them. To prove my point, I took one of those $15 russian screws that come with the red cap (you know the ones) and placed it near the top of the climb. On top, I filled a big ol' haul bag full of ice blocks till it was full and I couldn't lift it. Then I shoved it off the lip of the climb so it would take a massive fall onto the screw. WHAM! The screw held! So I did it again. WHAM! The screw held! So I did it again. CREAK! The screw bent. So I did it again and again and again. The fucker wouldn't come out! I rapped down and the thing was holding on by ONE THREAD. This has to be it I thought so I climbed up and dropped the haul bag again. Guess what? It held. My class was a failure and all my students now trust ice screws totally. It's only when you are with a girl friend that the damn things fail. Quote
David_Parker Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Alpine_Tom said: So where's the picture? It's a slide and I still have it somewhere in one of my slide trays. I should find it and make it into a digital image. I'm with Matt. I do not plan to ever fall ice climbing and I don't want to climb with anyone who thinks falling while ice climbing is no big deal. It is. Quote
Jens Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 I took a 20 footer on a screw when I was young and slightly more stupid then I am now. The catch was actually fairly soft- nothing but air. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 mattp said: As a concerned citizen, I feel compelled to add: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME, FOLKS!!!! (I don't know about you guys, but I'm going to see if I can avoid ever taking a fall with crampons on my feet and tools in both hands -- and I don't think I want to climb with RBW, either, because I don't want to be around when he tries it for time #3. The way I see it, RBW's tried twice to hurt himself - and the third time's the charm, right?) Matt, I respect your opinins a great deal, but I'll have to be the contrarian this time around...I'll Climb with RBW any day of the week; I just prefer to lead. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 I fell on the same screw about 20 times on top rope bouldering around on a wildly overhanging serac just above powder snow once. The screw was fine. I also took about a 5 footer on an abakalov thread once, just to see if it would hold...it did. Quote
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