Led_Hed

How do I submit a photo for the contest? I have some cool shots from the Wrangell/St. Elias range that I could enter. Is there a limit to the number you can submit?

My advice is to Heed the advice of Miller, Jason_Martin, Dylan_Taylor (all guides). Seek qualified instruction (ie: a proffesional guide) Practice, practice, practice. And make sure you're practicing a proven method. Mini-traxions, extra knots, etc. can end up biting you in the ass in a lot of situations. One of the most common mistakes I see is a climber daisy-chaining their leg loop prussik too tightly so that there is zero slack in the bundled cordage when the weight of the fallen victim is applied to the rope. This effect is compounded by the climber being unattentive to his/her prussik configuration sliding forward on the rope during travel. If the bundled leg loops end up being tentioned it's nearly impossible for the rescuer to deploy the leg loop prussiks and attach them to the primary anchor, therby releiving the load from the rescuer to the initial anchor. Big problem! It's good to bundle your shit up so it doesn't dangle and get in your way, but don't fall victim to the taught daisy chain. You must also be able to access the stowed/daisied leg loops from the self arrest position with one hand. Crouching and bending your upper body to reach something will generally not work and may end up causing you to loose your load-bearing position in the snow.

Interested in a pair of affordably priced Grivel Alp Wings? Email me at: matthewmc23@hotmail.com if you're interested. I'm selling mine (complete with extra pick) for $330.

Got a nice pair of Grivel Alp wings (only used lightly one season) with a brand new spare pick that I'm willing to part with for a mere $330. Anyone out there interested? Email me at: matthewmc23@hotmail.com

One pair of Grivel Alp Wings. Hammer and Adze. Great shape. One season of light use. Three picks purchased so I could have a spare. Email me an offer if you're interested at: matthewmc23@hotmail.com (I rarely check PM's on cc.com) Thanks.

Looking for a ride home to Bellingham, WA from the Canmore area on December 1st. Anyone want to share gas costs? Email me at matthewmc23@hotmail.com Thanks.

This pair of BD Vipers (one hammer, one adze) are fully tricked out with Viper Android Leashes and Viper Pinky fangs. The tools have only been used lightly for one season and show a bit of cosmetic wear but not much. There is a brand spankin' new BD Laser pick on one of them. This package retails for $556 (not including tax-which is about $45 in WA) and you can have these puppies for $350 obo. That's a $250 savings on a pair of top-notch tools! The tools are located in Bellingham (for those in the area that would eliminate shipping). If interested PM me, I won't be viewing this thread after posting it. Thanks

Good point CPOly. Climbing IS the ultimate amateur sport. re: performance rock climbing, even though those hard crag climbers can be annoying spraylords, at least they help us realize that with improvment we too could lead 5.12 or better. Sometimes it takes hanging around with a more hard-core crowd to pull you out of a performance plateau and get you onto some challenging terrain where you actually make physical and mental gains.

franticly seeking Squamish partner for Sat or Sat/Sun. IM me if interested.

A friend of mine had an experience similar to the pin clipping failure described above. He fell at the crux of the 10b crack climb just to the left of mosquito crack at Squamish and the biner on the pro-end (connected to a mid-sized nut) on his draw exploded at the end of the spine nearest to the open end of the biners' gate (same place as the aforementioned biner). There happened to be a rescue equipment quality control expert over near "flying circus" who looked at the biner for us and quickly diagnosed the cause of its failure. He said that the gate flutter and slapping that takes place on the upper biner of a draw during a fall (as rope feeds down through it and then back up through it) is enough to jostle it around enough to lodge the cable of the nut in the gate's notch so as to load the 'biner in a way in which it was not built to withstand. Luckily my buddy had another piece of pro between him and the ground which safely held his fall.

take a wilderness first responder course from Remote Medicine Incorporated in seattle. (or consult their website or chat with them directly on the phone) They are a terrific resourse and can set you up with all the neccesary supplies. Those kits you get at REI and such are a big let down and would be completely useless in any situation more dire than a nagging hang nail.

Hey Gene, you know me actually (Matt Anderson from B'Ham) I'm using other tools, they're not getting used. I'll sell them for $350 total. Matt

Oops, my email address is: matthewmc23@hotmail.com or you just PM me via cc.com.

Ok, I've finally made up my mind to sell them. The Vipers are BD's most technical steep waterfall/mixed tool (visit the BD site for detail specs). This pair is fitted with the Viper Android leash system which allows easy and quick detachment/reattachment from either tool freeing the hands to place protection, build belays, or pick noses, which ever is the task at hand, in addition they are fitted with the Viper Fang pinky shelf to enhance grip, keep hands from pressing into the ice, and reduce pump. Email me to make an offer (I will send a picture to those interested). The tools have a light amount of cosmetic wear but are structurally perfect.

Quit whining, return your gloves to whence they came, and buy a different pair. Do you whine this much while climbing? You're wasting everyone's time here (it's actually amazing how much of a response you got). Besides, if you're using a pair of dry tool gloves in -40 degree conditions, you deserve to loose both hands. And remember Twight's advice: "Buy in haste, repent at leisure." Useless Spray... :

Chair Peak in summer?

Selling a pair of very lightly used BD Vipers (one hammer, one adze) complete with laser picks, viper-android leashes, and viper fangs. Total price: $435.00 plus $10 shipping. email for photo: matthewmc23@hotmail.com

Sorry BG, I just don't follow you here...

I think there are some good points being made here, but I'll throw one more twist in the conversation... Using 70m twins means that you will be able to cover mega distances between belays, even more so than a single 70m because of the straighter lines/less drag. I have a hard enough time hearing my partners on alpine and ice routes when the wind is pumping and/or there is a bulge or dome between me and them. That extra ten meters may mean some pretty agrivating communication issues, and with 70m of really stretchy half rope running between you, rope tugs are a little harder to read. You'd also have to buy two ropes right away cause the chances you end up craggin' with someone who has the same rig is a bit slim, unless of course they are you regular partner. Just a thought.

Ok, ok... How about the tools and a few bucks....Any takers?

Anybody out there living near Carbondale, Glenwood Springs, or Snowmass, Colorado looking for a roomate? Moving to the area next week and I need a place to call home (more like a place to sleep and dry out gear) for the next 6 months or so. If you have any ideas for me don't hesitate to PM or email: matthewmc23@hotmail.com Thanks.

ps-I'm not a gaper. I promise.

I have a nice new pair of BD Vipers that I've only used lightly over the last month or so. They come complete with viper-android leashes and removable pinky fangs. Will trade for a pair of cobras in comparable condition or sell for a fair price. Make me an offer (email) matthewmc23@hotmail.com

Looking to liquidate a few pieces of ice gear. Got a pair of straight shaft BD Black Prophets (the non-carbon fiber variety) that I would part with for cheap. These classics would make a great beginers tool as well as versatile alpine weaponry. Also, a pair of Charlet Moser Grade 8 monopoint/bipoint waterfall ice crampons. Great shape. Will sell cheap! Need some solid Goretex? Got a swanky MEC (canadian co-op) bib/jacket combo that are matching. Very light use. Send me a Personal Message or email: matthewmc23@hotmail.com

On monday I'm packing up shop to move to the Glenwood Springs/Carbondale area (not yet sure where I'll be renting) for a new job. Any other Cascadian transplants in the area looking for partners. I intend to hit Ouray and other cool stuff near Vail and the like as much as possible this winter. Shoot me a private message if you wanna hook up and crank a little ice.