glassgowkiss Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 rudy, normaly i don't give a flying fuck and will dickland is not on the top of my list of characters. but this guy went and posted this crap on his own, so i even didn't read exactly what dickland was writing about. in 96 i passed a party on the nose and a fucking moron was nailing a pitch to glowering spot. these guys had fitness level of a greyhound bus drivers and looked more like a boat anchor then even an aid climber (how stupid that can sound). anyhow simon and i did give these guys a load of shit and told them we are going to send a welcome party made out of local guys who after a few beers were ready to kick the living shit out the climbrons (climber+moron=climbron). look at smith and white wedding. after joe brooks and dale goddard were done projecting this route a new hold showed up in the middle of the crux. how lame is that? people must realize, that pounding pitons on clean routes or free routes is like taking a hammer and a chisle and bashing out a new hold. there is several routes on elcap, which go with pitons, so if a fuckstick shitbag wants to pound pins he can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 I'm just upset I haven't been paying more attention to this thread. Â Come on guys more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 Climbing in YOS sounds like it sucks bad: people stealing gear, pin scars, bolt ladders, Hubris Bros doing repetitive 5.14 whippers for "fun", people in front of you/people behind you, shit buckets, 9 gallons of fucking water, tempers flaring over booty, people watching you climb from the parking lot, everyone is now a soloist, what next?! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes. Â Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 glassgowkiss said: rudy, normaly i don't give a flying fuck and will dickland is not on the top of my list of characters. but this guy went and posted this crap on his own, so i even didn't read exactly what dickland was writing about. in 96 i passed a party on the nose and a fucking moron was nailing a pitch to glowering spot. these guys had fitness level of a greyhound bus drivers and looked more like a boat anchor then even an aid climber (how stupid that can sound). anyhow simon and i did give these guys a load of shit and told them we are going to send a welcome party made out of local guys who after a few beers were ready to kick the living shit out the climbrons (climber+moron=climbron). look at smith and white wedding. after joe brooks and dale goddard were done projecting this route a new hold showed up in the middle of the crux. how lame is that? people must realize, that pounding pitons on clean routes or free routes is like taking a hammer and a chisle and bashing out a new hold. there is several routes on elcap, which go with pitons, so if a fuckstick shitbag wants to pound pins he can. Â Perhaps the fault lies w/ Supertopo...it explicitly states to bring the pins...AND gives a split clean/hammer rating... Â I'm not sticking up for the pins...I just think its lame to rail the guy over the internet, PARTICULARLY when it really seems that strickland is torqued more about the bootied gear...Couldn't you just confront him in person??? Everyone on this board is a superhero!?! Â This thread is LAME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 RuMR said: ...Couldn't you just confront him in person??? Everyone on this board is a superhero!?! Â This thread is LAME Â This thread is fun ...Muir on Saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 yea rudy, you are right. both of these guys are just biatches, dickland left the gear and the booty belongs to the other guy. i still stand by my point about pins on clean pitches (supertopos might have called for pins on different pitches, would have to check) and i've been trying to tell you guys all day yesterday that no one is as strong or fast as i am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 MisterE said: There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes. Â Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate. Â i guess the zodiac is off limits for 99.99999999% of climbers then jah cheif? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 supertopos are a fukkin joke. they break done route per move as well and tell people which gear to place where. fuck super topos. and this situation gives an excellent reason why. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 scott_harpell said: MisterE said: There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes.  Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate.  i guess the zodiac is off limits for 99.99999999% of climbers then jah cheif?  scotty  actually everyone i know who has climbed zodiac (around 8 people i think) have done it clean without pins or a hammer in their positions. and yes 2 of them soloed.   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 erik said: scott_harpell said: MisterE said: There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes.  Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate.  i guess the zodiac is off limits for 99.99999999% of climbers then jah cheif?  scotty  actually everyone i know who has climbed zodiac (around 8 people i think) have done it clean without pins or a hammer in their positions. and yes 2 of them soloed.   he said free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 THE QUOTE YOU QUOTED MY MISTERE SEZ CLEAN! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 Â Praise Bob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 erik said: THE QUOTE YOU QUOTED MY MISTERE SEZ CLEAN!   free  goddamn! quit smoking before 8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 scott_harpell said: MisterE said: There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes. Â Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate. Â i guess the zodiac is off limits for 99.99999999% of climbers then jah cheif? Â still clean climbing is legit on a hard free climb scott. not trying to nitpick, but i believe that is the context of mistere's message. Â have a nice day at skool! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 erik said: scott_harpell said: MisterE said: There's plenty of tricks for your bag out there. No need to bring a hammer on established clean routes. Â Those who do these pin routes free have advanced the level, and if you can't follow that lead, get on something more moderate. Â i guess the zodiac is off limits for 99.99999999% of climbers then jah cheif? Â still clean climbing is legit on a hard free climb scott. not trying to nitpick, but i believe that is the context of mistere's message. Â have a nice day at skool! Â Â but he said free.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 WELL IF HE MEANT FREE LIKE YOUR MOMMA THEN I COULD UNDERSTAND SINCE SHE IS THE EVERETT TRADE ROUTE!!! Â Â BUT HE MEANT CLEAN LIKE MY MOMMA!! NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO DO!!! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RicardoLagos Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 man .. all you guys who thinnk that nailing around 12 pins on zodiac is a big deal are just lame .. Â .. do you guys know how many pins the hubers drove in to do their free ascent? -- (i can tell you a base number -- i counted all the pins they had driven onto the nipple pitch) .. Â .. you're not bitching and moaning over those... Â .. the route is a nailing route .. -- its not commonly accepted to be a clean route -- you may choose to do it clean .. or not .. Â .. talk to chris mac about changing his topo if you want more of the community to do the route clean .. the funny part is that will's memory of my climb is a bit faulty -- the first pin i drove was into the black tower (not pitch 5) .. he saw me fail to drive a pin onto pitch 6 .. i nailed on 7, 8, 12, 15, 16 -- (15 could have been hand placed -- but i tapped them in for good measure) .. Â .. good thing the pin police was not at the base of el cap this year ... Â -- ricardo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 Richard is a hero. Will is a whinney little bitch. Â Comments like this (as in completely false)... Â "but to go and start pounding pins in a route that 99% of everyone who does it does it clean is just plain wrong." Â indicate that the rest of us don't know what we're talking about and should STFU. Â Richard run far, far away from this website it's not worth your time. Will get a counselor and work out your angst and insecurities in a more positive way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 dberdinka said: Richard is a hero. Will is a whinney little bitch. Â Comments like this (as in completely false)... Â "but to go and start pounding pins in a route that 99% of everyone who does it does it clean is just plain wrong." Â indicate that the rest of us don't know what we're talking about and should STFU. Â Richard run far, far away from this website it's not worth your time. Will get a counselor and work out your angst and insecurities in a more positive way. Â What about the booty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 RicardoLagos said: man .. all you guys who thinnk that nailing around 12 pins on zodiac is a big deal are just lame .. Â .. do you guys know how many pins the hubers drove in to do their free ascent? -- (i can tell you a base number -- i counted all the pins they had driven onto the nipple pitch) .. Â .. you're not bitching and moaning over those... Â .. the route is a nailing route .. -- its not commonly accepted to be a clean route -- you may choose to do it clean .. or not .. Â .. talk to chris mac about changing his topo if you want more of the community to do the route clean .. the funny part is that will's memory of my climb is a bit faulty -- the first pin i drove was into the black tower (not pitch 5) .. he saw me fail to drive a pin onto pitch 6 .. i nailed on 7, 8, 12, 15, 16 -- (15 could have been hand placed -- but i tapped them in for good measure) .. Â .. good thing the pin police was not at the base of el cap this year ... Â -- ricardo ricardo, you are not scoring browny points with me with this one. the point is that the route was freed in general as of last spring, that is every move went free as of june of this year. it was a public knowledge. so in general i am against nailing on established routes. will dickland (as i said earlier) is on my shitlist for some of the stupid spray he did last year or so. i say booty is yours. but stay off freed routes with pin and hammer. as for supertopos- things change and in my book chris is not some expert of free climbing walls. if you want to nail, there is plenty of rock left for you out there. as far as hubers and their pins- well they left them in place, so what is your point? usually you need to fix some pro to free climb a route like this. you are comparing apples and sandpaper here. ands as far as your cat fight with dickland- whatever.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 glassgowkiss said: normally i don't give a rats fuck about little cat fight like you two are having right now. but i decided to step in and smack you down like a little biatch. what the fuck is your point donkey? what the fuck do you expect? go on C3 and clip bolts every 7 ft? let me put it in simple terms for you sizzlechest: nailing a clean (and now a free) pitch is like taking a chisle to a sport climb and manufacture holds after the FA. simple. i don't give a flying fuck about your motivation or experience as a climber. in any case nailing a free/clean route or pitch is FUCKING LAME. there is plenty of routes in yosemite to learn aid climbing. so why don't you start with something easier, something you can do. i agree. and just because some old fart who had to nail to get up routes [that even go free today] back in the old days thinks clean aid is for pussies doesn't mean shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 rr666 said: What about the booty? Â Faq Booty! If you leave gear behind, that's your loss. One mark of an experienced aid climber is that gear (or at least less of it) doesn't get left behind, dropped, disappeared. Should he give it all back? Thats his choice. If he's interested in retaining Good Karma yes. But when Will left a cam behind 1500' of the deck who shouldn't assume he's going to get it back. Â As for pins. Zodiac goes at C3F or 5.14a due to the 1000's upon 1000's of pins that have been nailed and/or fixed over the last 30 years. In all honesty If in 50 years the route goes at 13c because a few pinscar-fingerlocks are more generous from more nailing BFD! Â Should he have nailed less? Certainly, but it hardly detracts from the scale of his accomplishment. His first wall ever! Grade VI solo! That takes some amazing mental persiverance. Â What really burns me is Wills vicious attack on the guy here on CC.com. If he had a bone to pick why not pick it on RC.com where Ricardo and the whole Yosemite Aid circus posts. Best he could do is slam him there using an avatar. Stick up for yourself Will! post as wstrickland on RC.com if you think you've got a valid grievence. Â Me thinks PTPP would get off on this thread. Ricardo set us up with a guest poster! Â Eric vs PTPP Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 Good idea about posting on RC.com, but he probably would have been banned. Maybe he tried it already and it went down the memory hole? Â And how do we know that PTPP is not here already? Lummox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 PTPP is not lummox... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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