Good Routes to Repeat

[PDXClimber]

More votes for Outer Space/Orbit, N.Ridge Stewart. Actually, the only routes I would hesitate to repeat would be West Ridge of Thomson (sp?)and Hood S.Side.

[goatboy]

Very interesting responses . . . anyone else?

[Dru]

Shouldnt this thread be called "Oops i did it again?"

Salal Creek Walls on Athelstan (5x now and 5 routes)Northeast ridge of Needle Peak (4x?)Squamish Buttress via Snake or Rock On (4x)Old Settler via any route (5x and 6 routes)Angels Crest (3x)Silvertip (3x and 4 of the 6 routes on the mtn.)

In general I prefer to go somewhere new than repeat stuff in the alpine. but Needle, Athelstan and Old Settler just keep sucking me back. Silvertip was just an isolated case but the east side is prety good for general alpine climbing.

[sobo]

I'll weigh in again, goatboy...

S Face Harrison Peak in the Selkirks north and west of Sandpoint, ID. About 8-10 multipitch alpine routes put up in the 80s by the likes of John Roskelley, Chris Kopcinski, Joe Benson, and others. All moderate outings (5.7 - 5.9+) in a pristine alpine setting, with a lovely alpine lake to camp upon, and only a two-mile, 1500 foot gain hike in. Excellent in late August/early September. It's the 20-mile dirt road that keeps out most of the riff-raff.

There's an old guidebook by Randall Green for the area, including the granite cliffs around Sandpoint and Lake Pond'Orielle.

[rayborbon]

Prusik Peak southern or western routes

The Monument's West Face (rope throw and prusik to summit)

Toketie Wall aka Smoke a Thai Wall

The Botxtop Beckey Route (tunnel through peak)

Mt Daniel any route and peak

Mt Baker whatever way looks good

Mt Stuart N Ridge

Dragontail Peak via Serpentine Ridge (Backbone and others look good too)

Slesse NE Butt bypass not easier variations

Sahale whatever you want

[Uncle_Tricky]

SW Buttress of S. Early Winters

Becky on Lib. Bell

S. Face Prusik

Big Tree Route-Darrington

Total Soul-Darrington

Cathedral Peak

Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (Estes Park, CO)

[russ]

More votes for some routes, several already mentioned:

N. Ridge Stuart - completeIngalls - South FaceSlesseYak Crack (& variations)

Multipitch rock

Davis-Holland - Lovin' ArmsGonzilla to Slow ChildrenCenterfoldOuterspace/Orbit/MJ diherdralCruel ShoesAngel CrestDreamerCareno Crag

I agree with Mattp concerning Liberty Crack - overall I was surprised how poor the rock quality is - a must do, but not necessarily a must repeat.

[Paul_Warner]

I'll try to answer the question (Well, what are some routes that you folks have done which you'd like to repeat or which you tend to repeat regularly?) as directly as I can before I start spinning off in wierd tangents:

Routes I'd like to repeat assuming I've only done them once)( and depending on the committment factor, ie. my available time, what kind of shape I'm in, who my partner is, all the stuff that shapes this kind of subjective rumination (In no particular order)

Mountaineers Route, Elephant Perch, Idaho Sawtooths

Crimson Chrysalis, Red Rocks, Nevada

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser Tower, Bugs

East Buttress, Middle Cathedral, Yosemite

South Face, Prusik Peak

Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier

The Snaz, Death Canyon, Tetons

North Ridge, Grand Teton

Rebel Yell, East Face Chianti

West Ridge, Forbidden Peak

Complete North Ridge, Mt Stuart

Northwest Arete, Mount Sir Donald

But I realize the attraction and fond memories I have of these routes is not born of the routes themselves, but of the experiences I had while feeling their stone and snow, the comraderie of good partners, the smiling benificence of good weather, and the good tangential "experience" that is so difficult to describe. I'm certain that I've done a few routes that I would have considered quite fine and worthy of repeat, except for a lack of good "tangential" experience, or more accurately, a heaping helping of BAD "tangential" experience....... Like the time my partner came down with Colorado Tick Fever after doing the South face of Blodgett, and almost died. Or almost getting zapped with lightning on Mt. Louis, or overestimating my girlfriend's capacity for suffering on an extended climbing/backpacking trip in the Sawtooths. But there's a thread with almost infinite capacity for response, heh?

Anyway, I geuss the second part of the original question deals with routes we tend to gravitate towards, repeating again, and again, but for what reason? I have found myself repeating climbs for a number of reasons, usually because I like them, and they're convenient (ie low comittment factor), or because I am trying to do them in better style:

Routes I have repeated (for whatever reason):

Cooper-Hiser on Chimney Rock (E. Face), Selkirks, North Idaho: First Ascent by the namesakes in 1961. First Free Ascent in 1972 by Roskelley and Kopczynski. At 5.9-, it's pretty moderate, but the 200+ feet of air below yer ass on the barn door laybacks will tend to pucker you up. There's a bunch of 5.6 - 5.12 routes 3-4 pitches long to the top of this sharkfin tower, but no walk-ups! And although I've done a number of them, even multiple times (including hauling overnight sleeping/steak barbecue/scotch and beer gear to the top via the 5.6 rap chimney, just to camp on top and watch the sun set), there's no other route (multi-pitch)I've ever done as many times as Cooper-Hiser. (20+ times) The North Idaho Selkirks are at the top of my list for sacred places. Killer Spring skiing, too! (Sobo was correct in praising Harrison Peak, just a hop/skip/jump from Chimney. Except that most of of the routes weren't put up by Roskelley/Kop, but by Randy Greene. Keystone route and Sunset Dihedral are also climbs I've repeated several times, and probably will again. Added perks: low crowds, the chance to see some of the last Woodland caribou alive in the lower 48, and great fishing, if yer into fresh trout for dinner)

Outer Space (about 14-15 x) Why? Because it's Fred's vision and realization of a Utopian Alpine Rock Climb!.......

Orbit/Mary Jane Dihedral (couple times)

Liberty Crack (I've done this route 4 times, with different partners and increasing speed/style, and now I'd like to rope solo it! And I gotta disagree with previous posts. There are some great pitches up higher.)

N. Face Athabaska (3 times, including Hourglass variation)

Direct East Buttress, South Early Winter Spire (Couple times, but still haven't totally freed it!) The Mutt and Jeff, Humbug Spires, Montana (This is a truly magical place. The route is named after an unlikely climbing team who pioneered the route in the late 60s, and later perished attempting the N face of Mt. Cleveland, Glacier Nat'l Park, in the winter of '69. Lots of good climbs in a unique alpine environment. Check out Randy Greene's Climbing Guide to Montana.)

And so while I really like the introspective and thoughtful quality of this thread, I really believe it begs a deeper question: What makes a "classic" climb classic?? I would offer the viewpoint that it's not so much the climb itself, but the quality of experience you associate with it. In that way, any climb can be a "classic" in your own mind, and worthy of visiting again and again. It's a strange and wonderful game we play. Have fun and be careful out there.

pw

[allison]

Toxic (Smith Rock)Phoenix (")Superslab(")

Ridin' Sidesaddle (Frenchmen Coulee)

Anything at Big Bend Boulders--let me say that I'm not a big fan of bouldering but...these...rocks...well, yum! (Outside of Moab, UT)

Anything at Royal Columns (shh!! secret area...must...not..blab)

Friction Face, Panty Waist (Red Rocks)

And of course anything, anything at all at that fab-o secret area near Ashford that everyone's (not) talking about! Best rock ever!!

Just to add one mediocre sport climber's perspective. Nomex securely in place.

Favorite training spot: the big I-beam that hangs way downstage right under the Short Floor in the Opera House, the one that I can just get my fingers flat on from a flatfoot position to do pullups on, it's...juuuust perfect for working those abs a bit on a coffee break or in between cues.....hey, waitaminute, they are tearing down the Opera House never mind. See you at the gym.

[Peter_Puget]

Here are few that come to mind:

Vertigo - EldoradoFire & Ice - EldoradoOld Gray Mare - CastleApron Jan - MidnightSometimes a Great Notion - MidnightPressure Drop - IndexThe Line - Lovers LeapWolf Crack - Donner SummitBlown Out - BeaconKone head - Quin KoneheadNE Buttress CathedralPinky Paralysis - Yosemite

[robertm]

NW Face - NEWS

West Crak - Daff Dome (Toulumne)

SunRibbon Arete - Temple Crag (Sierras)

East Ridge - Forbidden

Dreamer - Green Giant

S.Face - Prussik

Orbit (better than O.S. IMHO)

N Ridge Stuart

Gunsight Peak area (Main Peak by S. Face)

[philfort]

This isn't a very difficult 'climb', but the short ice face on Observation Rock is a nice fall outing that I would repeat. A beautiful pristine early morning hike into Spray Park, and then you get to swing your tools a bit, and return in the afternoon among the throngs of tourists.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by philfort:

This isn't a very difficult 'climb', but the short ice face on Observation Rock is a nice fall outing that I would repeat. A beautiful pristine early morning hike into Spray Park, and then you get to swing your tools a bit, and return in the afternoon among the throngs of tourists.

---

Ahhh yes beautiful hike into SPRAY

[Wallstein]

One I haven't repeated but would love to is Edge of Space on Snow Creek. Probably the best bolted route I have done in the state. Amazing position and exciting climbing.

Thin Red Line is one I will probably do again for the 3rd time. I think this route is better than Liberty Crack and far less crowded.

Northern lights on the Chief is definitely on the list to repeat again and again. A couple of the pitches were sandstone like climbing but on GRANITE! Steep, clean and hard. It can't get much better.

[sexual_chocolate]

I haven't seen it mentioned yet; a little surprised. I suppose it's not well-known yet, but I would imagine this will change soon, due to the magnificence of the climb. I actually forget what he named it, but....

The north face of Mt. Baring. A new route established by Brian Burdo, at considerable effort and expense, ascending the north arete of Dolomite Tower. 13 pitches of incredible positions, culminating in a sizable roof at pitch 9 or so. Very repeatable, very enjoyable, very athletic, and very much one of my all-time favorite multi-pitch endeavors.

[DPS]

I second Thin Red line. The aid sections were nice, with little fixed gear. Plus you get to watch people epic on the first couple of pitches of Liberty Crack.

[Alpinfox]

This was a good thread.

 

 

Routes I have/would repeat:

WF NEWS, WA Pass

DEB SEWS, WA Pass

Lib Crack, WA Pass

Outer Space + Orbit, SCW, Alpine Lakes

SF Prusik, Alpine Lakes

Davis Holland-Lovin' Arms, Index

Synchronicity, Lillooet

Zebra-Zion, Smith

NE Ridge Triumph (views!; the climbing is not that great)

SF Tooth (so close to home)

 

[specialed]

The best routes aren't worth repeating.

[MCash]

Cooper-Hiser on Chimney Rock (E. Face), Selkirks, North Idaho: First Ascent by the namesakes in 1961. First Free Ascent in 1972 by Roskelley and Kopczynski. At 5.9-, it's pretty moderate, but the 200+ feet of air below yer ass on the barn door laybacks will tend to pucker you up. There's a bunch of 5.6 - 5.12 routes 3-4 pitches long to the top of this sharkfin tower, but no walk-ups! And although I've done a number of them, even multiple times (including hauling overnight sleeping/steak barbecue/scotch and beer gear to the top via the 5.6 rap chimney, just to camp on top and watch the sun set), there's no other route (multi-pitch)I've ever done as many times as Cooper-Hiser. (20+ times) The North Idaho Selkirks are at the top of my list for sacred places.

 

Interesting post. I have only been on 4 routes at Chimney, but I thought Cooper Hiser was the worst. What's so great about it? The only memorable parts were the very start of the first pitch, the short little handcrack left of the chimney on the second pitch, and passing through the tunnel (if finishing over there). The rest of it is highly broken with loose rock and loose flakes. It's an ok route, but look around you, there are several mega classic routes on the east face and that isn't one of them.

 

I'll have to try camping on top, sounds like fun.