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jesse_mason

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Everything posted by jesse_mason

  1. [TR] Mt. Ashlu- South Face 7/4/2004

    Above rugged lake
  2. CM Aztar

    Those black plugs are on the axars as well and they fall out and then fill up with water or whatever so you should tape those holes up.
  3. Littlewet TR??

    Not to bust your bubble but its hovering around 5degrees c right now with a forecast of 7c for the rest of the week. Id say a week of warm temps will proly make most of the climbs out of condition considering most are just barely surviving now. Pray for cold
  4. Littlewet TR??

    I have a rope for you but considering: 1) silk degrees apparently never complety forms, 2) Salmon stakes is hardly a grade 3 especially if the tube is 3+, not really worth ever going back for, 3) there are no trees worth tying in to or rocks for that matter, 4) I got soaked to the bone with slush in my toes and so should every one else!! it may not be worth the trouble Fern: first we tried to cross up river rock hopping, I fell in on the first rock hop since it was ice covered and we realized we needed to wade. We didnt go back to the salmon bar since we were now too far, so it was fairly deep. On the way back however we chose the salmon bar which was just as deep but had nice rocks to walk on. This time i just wore my boots, which are now rotting on my heater at home.
  5. Littlewet TR??

    Quite chilly, hovering around knee deep with a few mid thigh surges. Good luck, might want to bring a towel.
  6. ice climbing Sunday

    you know the only weekend I cant go, schools out, but my friend bought me a seahawks ticket for sunday. Can you go monday? keep in touch Fern, Im free as a bird now no school and no job, jeesh thats actually kinda scary better phone the granparents for a little lone for the next few months of climbing Ill be around, talk to you soon Jesse
  7. anybody shave their head?

    Go buzz cut first, say a closed setting on the shaver, no gaurd. Bald is only for a very few guys, 9/10 very very short is better than bald. Isnt it interesting that what 5 yrs ago this haircut would put in the Nazi lover Skin head gang and now lots of dudes sport it. Once again bail scene on the bald approach go short first. Jesse Lost it all by 25 !!
  8. I've Been Out-4WD'd

    I cant afford fuck all so all dudes with cool shit must have small dicks
  9. Alpine Thurs/fri

    Where are you thinking? Those are the days I was thinking of also, I live in Vancouver BC.
  10. access questions

    frm bc4x4.com Due to all the recent heavy rain, the East Harrison Forest Service Road and the Florence Lake Forest Service Road are now closed due to several severe road and bridge washouts. Crews are working on repairs however it will probably be at least a full week before the roads are open to public vehicles again. Please make their jobs easier by staying out of these areas until all repairs are complete. thanks!
  11. Double Fatality in CA - Anchor Failed

    Your a fuckin moron dude, AS a moderator this is what you contribute? You should be banned from this board for shit like that!! Jesse
  12. Question on crampons

    G12 all the way!!! First havve you looked at this crampon, 1) woa wicked front points its like having 2 ice picks on your feet, they are as thick as the sabers fronts are wide. 2) you can move them closer together or further apart or even go for a mono point. 3) the bottom teeth are way more agressive than the sabers, you can replace the front points if they wear out. 4) quick release adjustable sizing so you can make them really small for travel then snap on your foot no bolt to mess with like the saber. If your like me and change your foot wear but use the same crampons. you wont piss off your partner when you have to size them for your boot you chose to wear that day while he freezes at the belay. 5) you can get rid of the stupid front thing that you slide the webbing through on the toe bail. 6) they dont ball up the walk awesome and climb steep ice awesome. I dunno man sabers WERE awesome and still do the job but the g12 are ahead of their time I have had them for a while, July 2002 is when i got mine , thats the crampon to buy dude, oh and you mile as well spend the thirty canadian bucks and buy the antibots the whole gallon jug of water thing is a pain you spend 10 just buying stupid jugs then another 5 buying twist ties. Thats my 02 cents Jesse
  13. Silveretta 404's vs. 500's

    I have the 404's my partner has the 500's they both seem good the 500's are light and a pound is quite a bit in my world. The thing i thought was differnet and most important is the rear step in. on the 404 i have a metal bar on either side of my foot that attaches to the plastic step in on my rear end of my foot then goes down to the base plate. This whole entire piece comes out of the binding when I bail, as was mentioned earlier. But I heard that the metal pieces break quite easily and most people carry a spare, cost 75$ i think for the entire rear step in, this spare may be harder to come by now that the 500's are out. I have never broke one but I weigh 160 and I only use them for approachin climbs. thats what i heard anyways
  14. New Squamish 14 pitch 11a

    Wicked thanks for the heads up mike, I was thinking about doing it tomorrow but I was worried about it being wet and sounds like it is, geuss ill go with plan b, which hasn't be hatched yet but maybe ill head over to unfinished sympony. Thanks again Jesse
  15. New Squamish 14 pitch 11a

    so this climb starts just left of sticky fingers? I dunno if any one has the old guide but on page 80 you can see sticky fingers and deadend dihedral, where would the top of pitch 2 be in relation to the top of deadend dihedral? And lastly did any one get on this thing? How is it ? any thing worth mentioning. Thanks in advance Jesse
  16. Favorite 5.9 pitch

    Wonderland in sqaumish is THE best 5.9 around hands down!!!!
  17. failed attempts

    Yes the polished rock leading to the glacier is steep long and hard, and difficult to routefind, Oh ya and no pro. Dons reply to my qeury on the dificulty of the rock: " i seem to recall taking LEFT forks in the gully, and there were certainly short sections (up to 10m) of at least mid-5th, rather exposed - just boulder it out." hahaha, I can solo, but 150 m above the deck with seracs collapsing, on polished mid 5th, in my plastics, takes abit of juice. Proly throw a pair of rock shoes in the bag this time. Heres Gord Betenias testimonial to the copius serac fall, although you are safe if you are " on route" just dont get off!! "My biggest memory of our trip was a serac fall that covered everything within 50 feet of the lake with about 5 feet of debris. Just huge! " Ill be back , least I got the approach down pat!!
  18. failed attempts

    N Face of Mt Samson, an ice route in BC. Tried twice cant even get on the glacier,hahaha. Ill be back this september for my third and final try if i dont make it iam ripping that page out of my guide book!!
  19. living in squamish

    you can stay here for 6 months with no visa.
  20. The stupidest TR ever

    I brought my binoculars, and yes it looked as though there was ice. A left option with some ice and a right option that was alittle hidden but looked like it contained some steeper ice leading to the same place as the left option. both lines looked as though they had decent ice. However the rock was fairly devoid of ice lower down and I had a hard time in discerning its steepness from my vantage. Thats why I was wondering if it is 3-4 pitches then maybe the lower rock is easily climbed. I looked at the link dru posted about sqaumish ice and there are two pictures of this flow, the second I beleive is a picture from the top of the route. I'd like to give it a shot, first it needs to stop raining though
  21. The stupidest TR ever

    Dru, come on you were getting me stoked I was gonna wait for your info on lilloet then head up there tonite. Now Im gonna have to head back to manning, I checked out a scottish tale can you enlighten me on why there is a discrepancie on the number of pitches available? Is it because the lower part has no ice but you can still climb it to the upper ice that would produce 4 pitches or sometimes the whole gash is iced up that would produce 9 ? Oh and by the way next time you forget your ropes dont hesitate to call I woulda drove up and met you guys with gear no problemos. cheers jesse
  22. Has the internet produced lazy climbers?

    I think it has produced more sucess rates, sure there are folks who ask for beta on smoke bluff routes and such, but over all i think it has been a wonderful resource. Check out my situation Im sure there are many more like me. I tried climbing around 94 I did not know one person who climbed, me and my friend tried it liked it and kept on doing it. Talk about going to the school of hard knocks we taught ourselves how to lead from books, we had 3 sets of nuts and we did all the routes in our range at the bluffs. I still knew no one who was climbing it wasjust me and my friend. I then stumbled on Bruce Fairly's guide book and I started ( tried to alpine climb ). Basically since I knew no one and had no acess to updated info, I had a very low sucess rate. I did sky pilot from marmot creek " the preferred appraoch" according to fairly, Took me two fuckin days. Now with the current info I can do it in half a day. All im trying to say is that not all of us have friends that climb or parents or faimly that have led us down this path, I never knew about the ACC till I found a trip schedule at the edge. I sometimes think that if I had a mentor or a more experinced climber to ask qeustions to I could avoid silly errors that grind a trip to a halt. Well when I found this board it started to fill in some of those gaps, So it has turned out to be an excellent resource for me. But like every resource in life some folks will abuse it but all in all I think this board has become very handy for people who may not have the resources others have. Cheers jesse
  23. Dry tooling etiquette

    I think some one mentioned it being cool to scratch up the rock face that I think Jim sanford drilled a line of pockets in to. Its located in the cacodemon boulders below the chief. I think you can get a top rope up but i dunno for sure. I poked my head around the chief today and if it stays cold you could proly find all the smears and such you want in the bullet heads.
  24. Welch S Ridge

    Hey I dont want to really get in to it here on this thread, I belong to a few of the local 4X4 clubs so if you have some qeustions regarding lifted trucks you should check out http://www.bc4x4.com/ or if your really into explorers such as iam you should check this site out http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php Basically some of the newer models before IRS came out had a mono leaf in the rear made of fiberglass this induced a lot a sag and promoted a fair bit of body roll which can cause a slide. As well as the gas tank was put on one side of the vehicle casing a slight lean when full... blah blah ... I corrected it with a full size leaf pack whick added a 4 " lift and enabled me to add 33" tires. If you have any more qeustions PM me or maybe take this to another topic so we can leave this as a nice link to the welch foley conditions. Cheers jesse
  25. Welch S Ridge

    Um well yes i did roll my explorer in boston bar on the way to lillooet about a year ago. Although it wasnt lifted then, thats why i lifted it actually I couldnt stand the stock suspension. I cant beleive you actually know this, crazy small world, Also I think we went ice climbing together on baker about 1.5 years ago through the ACC. Cheers Jesse
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