Peter_Puget Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Fern's handcrack question got me thinking about what routes looked easy but ended up kicking your rear. First on my list is Hot Cherry Bendover. It looks like a short 5.8 route but it is actually pretty darn hard. Too bad it is off limits now. PP Quote
b-rock Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 The Sickle at Broughtons Bluff, 5.8 with a short overhanging offwidth. Quote
ryland_moore Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 every off-width I have ever lead and TR'ed. You'd think I learned by now! Quote
erik Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 the hands finger crack one route right of cruel sister at smith. it always looks so good, but i always seem to hesitate making the finger moves! damn!!!! this next weekend!!!! Quote
cracked Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Chain Reaction. I can do it, but I'm scared to get on it after spraining my ankle falling off it. Quote
ScottP Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 (edited) Pressure Drop at Index. I needed skin grafts after that flail fest. Oh, and Bravo Jean Marc on the Cheeks at Index. I finished by aiding on a jammed knot to finish the thing. Edited September 27, 2003 by ScottP Quote
iain Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 erik said: the hands finger crack one route right of cruel sister at smith. it always looks so good, but i always seem to hesitate making the finger moves! damn!!!! this next weekend!!!! fierce! how about classic crack at Broughton's. 5.9 Quote
iain Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 the last 5 feet of 5.9 jill's thrill, beacon the 10ish offwidth start to free for all, beacon the last 3 feet of any route at tieton. Quote
iain Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 oh oh and the first 3 feet of Wedding Day Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 iain said: the last 5 feet of 5.9 jill's thrill, beacon the 10ish offwidth start to free for all, beacon the last 3 feet of any route at tieton. Free for All was one of my first trad leads. Watching my friend move away from the drop zone as I mantled to the top of that pillar was priceless. Quote
TimL Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Even Steven at Index kicked my ass the first time. I was weak and foolish. Went back the second time after a little training and sent it first go. Swim on the UTW just took me out. I still don't have the sacs to go back there and try it again. Quote
Marko Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 S. Rib of Garfield. Just finding the damn start of Resolution Arete. Quote
iain Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 rbw1966 said:Free for All was one of my first trad leads. hey that makes me feel great, thanks. I guess there's not much to do on lead on the pillar part except lasso those chockstones. Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Prom Night at Smith was a humbling experience. Quote
Distel32 Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 ATD and Mindbender in Squamish Kind of Brawny in Joe's Valley Quote
jefffski Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 ken's crack the gunks. looks like a straight forward 5.7 handcrack, short, steep and on a slight diagonal. damn if there wasn't a bulge in the middle (felt a bit overhanging). great climb! there is a little 5.6 chimney in leavenworth on the approach to castle rock called the fault. a party was on it when i go there and the leader spent a good long time on this 'piddly' little climb. little did i know. it wasn't very hard but felt harder than 5.6! i'm glad i didn't mock him out loud. Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 Lizard (formerly Aries?)at Index. I remember cruising that route long ago. Then I had kids, desk job, blah,whine, hem, haw,,,,,,, I thrashed on the fist section, and backed off the thin fingers. Seconding it was like a cake walk. Ohhh I have so much to relearn. Quote
Norsky Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 How about that 5.6 chimney first pitch of Royal Arches? Remember that one? So polished! Quote
Norsky Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 cracked said: Chain Reaction. I can do it, but I'm scared to get on it after spraining my ankle falling off it. Real soft belays seem to be the solution to that one. It'll keep you from kicking into the wall when you whip of that 3rd or 4th bolt. Listen to me, I'm talking like I've done the thing. Quote
Sol Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Dolphin at J-tree. I still have scars on each side of both ankles. Quote
Rad Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 MF at the Gunks. Anybody been on that? I took a 15-20 footer from high on the 1st pitch and swung back into the lip of the roof. The only thing that protected the family jewels from damage was my brand new locking biner, which now has a nice gouge in it. I went back up, fell again but only for 12ft, and then fired it on the third time. MF certainly kicked my ass. Rating? Gunks 5.9. A classic! ..................... Quote
Dru Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Fern's handcrack question got me thinking about what routes looked easy but ended up kicking your rear. First on my list is Hot Cherry Bendover. It looks like a short 5.8 route but it is actually pretty darn hard. Too bad it is off limits now. PP OMG do you mean Hot Cherry isn't a 5.8 I wondered why it felt so hard!!! Quote
jj221 Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Look for the hidden undercling at the bulge on Ken's Crack. MF at the Gunks is still kicking my ass! Quote
jj221 Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 P.S. Jim McCarthy put up so many sand bag, ass kicking climbs at the Gunks that I loose track after a while. I know he has put in some time out in the Cascades- do his ascents out west carry the same rock-hard ratings as the routes he has put up in the east? Quote
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