epb Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 http://climbxmedia.relitas.com/index2.htmlThis website is sick. I just came across it today. Thought some of you would be interested. Tomorrow Dave Graham's ascent of dream time will be on it. If your not on a high speed connection I wouldn't bother, but the rest of you should dig. Quote
erik Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 what makes you sick about??? i will agree with you though the ability to cash in on any one insignificant event in climbing makes me sick too!!!!! next up the chalk cam bag!!! i am working on a secret project currently that.......oops!!! [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote
Wallstein Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 What do you know Erik! You can't even pass a belay test. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 The site has fancy design. I dont think it is better than a not so fancy designed sight that is easier to load though. There are a few interesting shots in there but kind of like all the same after you have seen so many.. Quote
Dwayner Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 WARNING TO TRADSTERS: This climbxmedia site will indeed MAKE YOU SICK!!!. It's a bizarre celebration of all that is against the very fiber of our being: the glorification of sport climbing, "comps" and bouldering. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. For a taste of the truly bizarre, including a very unfortunate haircut, check out "Bone Collector" which is article 21 in the multimedia articles. Oy! And I thought I was wasting my life in academia! To put a positive spin on the topic, this whole web-site makes my trivial pursuits look truly earth-shattering so I am thankful for that. Article 6 in the same section describes how "On June 13 the world was rocked by news of chipping in Fontainebleau". Twenty years from now, we'll all remember where we were when we heard the "rockin" news. e.g. "Dude...I was at the gym workin' a sit start when all of a sudden they turned off the grunge tunes and made an announcement. My mouth just dropped. Everyone starting talking at once. How could this be? How will we live? Even though many of us were strangers, we gave the person next to us a comforting hug, held hands in a circle and sang "Let it Be". If it could happen in the Font., it could happen right here. What's this world coming to? Must of been them al-Queedas gettin' ready." But for those of you into that spend-all-month-rehearsing a 60ft. overhanging face hang-dog-fest stuff, or can spend a weekend "workin'" a boulder problem....than this is your DREAM COME TRUE!!!! More power to you...meanwhile, I feel my breakfast coming up again for another visit. Quote
hikerwa Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 check out spokeradio.com, I know I'm tooting my own horn, but It is getting way cool. Quote
ScottP Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 Some alternate viewing for those of you about to be sick... http://homepages.tig.com.au/~mcgarry/paul/chphgall.htm Quote
hikerwa Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 Holy shit! that ones way better than even my own site... thanks scottp!!! Quote
gregm Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ScottP: Some alternate viewing for those of you about to be sick...http://homepages.tig.com.au/~mcgarry/paul/chphgall.htm i don't think i've ever laughed so hard looking at a computer Quote
miker Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 MAKE THE Baby Stop!!!!Its frenetic dancing is bringing on an epilleptic fit, which is not helped by the unpleasant afterimage of the barffest... just goto www.tubcat.com for a scary pic. miker Quote
JayB Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 Dwayner et al: I understand the desire to insult those aspects of the sport that you do not excel at or just plain dislike. To me there’s a lot about bouldering that seems silly and contrived – especially sit starts. And nearly every time I see some 130 pound 15 year old cranking on a sport route that in all probability I will never be able to link up four consecutive moves on, let alone climb – there’s a part of me that wants to say “Yeah – well let’s see him get on that trad/ice/alpine route that I did and we’ll see how he does – THEN he can call himself a climber. ” Then something else takes over and I give them the respect they deserve for climbing at a such a high level – even if their abilities are confined to a relatively narrow segment of the sport – and I get inspired to climb harder myself. But that’s just me. If you're a self proclaimed member of the "old-school" and trad/mountaineering is the only aspect of the sport that appeals to you - great. If everything that's associated with sport climbing, bouldering, etc. makes you want to retch - fine. There's plenty of room for that perspective in the sport, and in general I think that having a few folks around who stand up for risk, commitment, judgement, and the integrity of old, bold routes of yore such as DDD is a healthy thing for climbing. It is dissapointing, however, to see someone from who abides by a such a strict code of ethics ignore what I thought was one of the most important ethics of all – don’t diss it until you’ve done it. Hell, even the 14 year old sport monkeys that do 90% of their climbing in the gym abide by it. They may be able to crank on 13’s out at Shelf, but even they will refrain from talking smack about a 5.5 trad climb, or a 5.5 trad climber until they’ve gone out and led the route themselves - perhaps because until they’ve done so they know they’re just talking shit. Myself, I wouldn’t dream of ripping on boulder problems harder than about V2, or sport routes harder than 5.11 - let alone V15 problems and 5.15 routes - until I could yawn my way through them. But maybe that’s not an old-school ethic after all…I'm starting to wonder. [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote
Dru Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 Sit starts are only cool if you have arm strength. I call that cheating Quote
epb Posted February 15, 2002 Author Posted February 15, 2002 You guys are so lame. Where else you going to see Chris Sharma climbing revelation, Dave Grahman climbing dream time,etc ect for FREE! I found the quicktime videos excellent. Sorry you guys didn't. BTW I didn't relize someone climbing a potential 5.15a was an insignifcant event. I am once again humbled. [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: epb ] Quote
Dru Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by epb: Where else you going to see Chris Sharma climbing revelation, for FREE! Im volunteering at the VIMFF next weekend and im not only gonna see it free with first hand narration by Sharma himself but Im gonna smoke a bowl with him backstage and brainwash him into rope gunning for the KTK... Quote
Marcus_Engley Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by epb: You guys are so lame. Where else you going to see Chris Sharma climbing revelation, Dave Grahman climbing dream time,etc ect for FREE! I found the quicktime videos excellent. Sorry you guys didn't.] FWIW epb, I got a kick out of the site. The video of Loskot and his buddies doing huge moves on steep limestone, popping off, and going for a 50 foot ride into the surf was pretty sweet... m Quote
dyno_merchant Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 i love climbxmedia! i've been checking out that site for a couple years now. but i like stupid sit down starts, toping out 30 foot boulders and giving rumpolas also so i'm just a weirdo! for all you who want the scoop on the "latest sent problem/route" and "who chipped what and then filled it in" stuff like me, here's some other sites that are good. 8a.nu and newenglandbouldering.com. on the note of forums... this one is awesome. check out arizonaclimbing.com-it has a crappy forum unless you like to listen to 4 or 5 phoenix kids talk about this girl melissa and how much they think she is a slut. Quote
offwidthclimber Posted February 15, 2002 Posted February 15, 2002 word to climbxmedia. word to the crusty tradhogsword to the sport monkeys.word to the bouldering mutants.word to the ice freaks.word to the aid sickos. and most of all, word to the Quote
Dwayner Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 Brother JayB say:"I understand the desire to insult those aspects of the sport that you do not excel at or just plain dislike."Dwayner say:I have no desire to insult whoever; I am merely expressing a perspective which I think needs to be brought out from time to time. You don't know from Dwayner, and from what he does or does not excel at, so a bit less speculation, sir. And by the way, if you read my comments, many of them are making light of what I consider to be utterly absurd - Don Quijote vs. the boulders, "tragedy" at Fontainebleau, etc. Mountaineering itself is rather frivolous but from my viewpoint this is really scraping the bucket. But hey! What a country! I'm glad I live in a place where people can fixate on such things and actually survive quite well. Brother JayB say:"If you're a self proclaimed member of the "old-school" and trad/mountaineering is the only aspect of the sport that appeals to you - great. If everything that's associated with sport climbing, bouldering, etc. makes you want to retch - fine."Dwayner say: Exactly! "There's plenty of room for that perspective in the sport, and in general I think that having a few folks around who stand up for risk, commitment, judgement, and the integrity of old, bold routes of yore such as DDD is a healthy thing for climbing." Dwayner say: Thank you! Brother JayB say: "It is disappointing, however, to see someone from who abides by a such a strict code of ethics ignore what I thought was one of the most important ethics of all – don’t diss it until you’ve done it."Dwayner say: Sorry, my friend, but that's not my code of ethics...it's more of a weak cliche that's been making the rounds for years. I haven't joined the Taliban, shot up heroin, or wasted two weeks on a boulder problem because basically, I think all three are lame! Shalom, amigo...do what you do, man. You ain't here to please Dwayner and he ain't here to please you! [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: Dwayner ] Quote
mr._happy Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 Originally posted by dyno merchant:check out arizonaclimbing.com-it has a crappy forum unless you like to listen to 4 or 5 phoenix kids talk about this girl melissa and how much they think she is a slut. haha, i've actually seen the arizonaclimbing.com forum. i get a kick out of the whole soap opera that's going on with that melissa chick...but can't they discuss that crap over the PHONE? yes, i've seen climbxmedia before and follow it from time to time. i do boulder a little, and i clip bolts too, but i also climb trad, ice, and alpine. i suck at all of it. and although i don't consider myself a boulderer, i have the utmost respect for anyone who can devote so much focus and energy into a single discipline--and excel at it. you have to admire someone who says, 'this is what i want to do,' then goes and does it--and does it well. so i admire guys like graham and sharma, even though i've never met them and don't really care to. i also admire guys like twight, house, blanchard, etc who have the balls and the strength to do what i can only imagine. just my 2cents Quote
JayB Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 Dwayner say: Sorry, my friend, but that's not my code of ethics...it's more of a weak cliche that's been making the rounds for years. I haven't joined the Taliban, shot up heroin, or wasted two weeks on a boulder problem because basically, I think all three are lame! Poor phrasing on my part. What I meant by "Don't diss it unless you've done it." Wasn't "don't knock it until you've tried it" which, I agree - is a lame cliche'. Trying bouldering or sport climbing is easy and certainly not a source of any distinction - I'm with you there. But that's not what I was talking about... What I meant was I think it is lame to talk shit about something which you (and I, and all but a few incredibly gifted folks) are manifestly incapable of doing - in this case bouldering at the V10+ level and sport climbing at the 5.13 plus level. I really don't mean this as an insult, but it sort of sounds like an older biker dude sitting on his Harley ripping on the young guys who are pulling the insane freestyle tricks on their bikes at the motorcross. Yes - I'm sure he's a bad ass in his own way, but if nothing else you'd think that after all the time he's put in on the bike he'd at least be able to appreciate the difficulty involved in what they do, even if it's not he's interested in doing it himself. Hell, I'm baffled by the folks who dig tele-skiing and have no desire to take up the sport, but I have a ton of respect for the folks who excel at it unless I can do it better than they can I'm going to keep my mouth shut. To take this back to climbing - if someone who has actually climbed/bouldered at that level and then wants to rip-on those who do so and the routes they're put up - well, they've earned the right to do so without looking bad in my book. True, I don't know the first thing about you or what you've climbed. I'm sure that it's an impressive list of alpine and trad routes - but given your evident disdain for the two disciplines in question it seemed unlikely that a v10 or 5.13 route would found amongst them. Speculation (?)- seems like a reasonable conclusion to me. Anyhow, If I'm wrong - my bad. Anyway - "I don't talk shit about it if I can't do it." That's what I meant, that's my own little ethic that I try to live by. I'd type more but I'm off to add a dope-ass V2 sit start to this Alpine route in the Park... Shalom to you as well... -Jay [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote
pope Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by JayB: [qb]What I meant was I think it is lame to talk shit about something which you (and I, and all but a few incredibly gifted folks) are manifestly incapable of doing - in this case bouldering at the V10+ level and sport climbing at the 5.13 plus level. One question, my friend: at what point would you state that somebody is "capable" of climbing 5.13 or B2 or whatever? It seems to me, Dwayner is criticizing climbers who comrpomise style in the name of obsessing over something that is obviously too hard for them. I think he'd criticize a "trad" climber who spent all day rehearsing the moves on a 5.9 crack, if it were obviously over the tradster's head. That many sport climbers operate in this mode (bursts of intense free climbing between aid moves on bolts, with the hope of achieving a "red point"), makes the entire pursuit seem ridiculous. That they spray the rock with bolts makes them even more deserving of ridicule. There's a difference between climbing difficult grades and pretending to climb difficult grades. For me, it's easier to respect somebody who climbs difficult routes without all the artifice, whether they excel at steep face, slabs, cracks, ice or whatever. Let's not kid ourselves: Dwayner isn't criticizing the conquest of difficult rock faces (be they on the Capitan or on a boulder); rather, he's critizing poor style. There are routes at the very top free-climbing grades being established on the lead in the Alps, with big run-outs between bolts drilled from hook "stances", by "sport climbers" like the Hubers. Nobody, including Dwayner, is criticizing those guys. It's funny that when 5.13b was being rap-drilled in this country, proponents argued that establishing such grades on the lead was barely possible and hardly practical. Look what's going on in the Alps these days! So, with all respect, I think Dwayner makes a valid point of ridiculing common sport-climbing practices. That he isn't capable of 5.13 is a fair statement, but then most of the guys spending four weeks to redpoint 5.13 aren't really capable either. Quote
JayB Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: WARNING TO TRADSTERS: This climbxmedia site will indeed MAKE YOU SICK!!!. It's a bizarre celebration of all that is against the very fiber of our being: the glorification of sport climbing, "comps" and bouldering. Pope: Hopefully you'll forgive me for misinterpreting the above as something other than a generic critique of climbers who employ poor style. Seemed like yet another straight-up, wholesale rip on sport climbers, sport climbing, bouldering etc. But hey - you know Mr. Dwayner better than I do so I'll take your word for it. Anyhow even if a more literal interpretation of those comments is the correct- he's free to rip on any of the above to his heart's content, and I am free to cast a dissenting vote when he does so. Hopefully we can even do so without too many hard feeling. As I said before I think it's good to have guys like yourself and Dwayner and Mitch and [insert anyone else who shares your outlook here] around to help keep climbing true to some of the values that should be part of climbing no matter what trend comes along. I think it's also true that every aspect of climbing has components that provide worthy fodder for ridicule, and if that's all that was going on here - just poking some fun at sportclimbers - none of the ridiculed would have cause to complain. However, the "No matter how hard you climb,if you clip bolts then you are a pussy and I'm a better, purer climber than you are, bow before me" routine really starts to grate after a while. Perhaps that's an unfair generalization, but that's the way comments like those I've posted above come off. Unfortunately, when a genuine concern for preserving the rock and the standards by which it should be climbed are housed within comments like those the only possible outcome, I'm afraid, will be to alienate other climbers from your ethics and outlook. So (anyone) if your aim is to do just that - keep the slander coming. If your intent is really to convince people to excercise a bit more restraint when bolting, respect the integrity of established routes, preserve the wilderness aspect of climbing and the like - making your case without quite so much recourse to insult and derision will garner you a larger audience and advance your agenda a lot further in the end. Now back to that sit start. I might even throw a dry-tool figure four into it. [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote
pope Posted February 16, 2002 Posted February 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by JayB: No matter how hard you climb,if you clip bolts then you are a pussy and I'm a better, purer climber than you are, bow before me JayB, you have a beautiful way with words! May I borrow this for my signature? Seriously, though, I'm only sticking up for Dwayner so that he'll be a sport and continue to shave his legs and wear that wig on those 24-hour Joshua Tree road trips. Quote
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