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Posted

From the Access Fund Newsletter:

 

 

3. Washington State’s North Cascades National Park To Develop A New Climbing Management Plan

 

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Over the past few years, outstanding new sport climbing and bouldering areas have been developed north of Seattle in the Skagit River Gorge between the towns of Newhalem and Diablo. Route development includes bolted sport climbs and bouldering, both of which require the cleaning of moss and vegetation. Local climbers have also been active clearing rock and debris to create trails and improve landing zones at bouldering areas. A detailed website of one of the climbing areas has been developed and word has spread quickly among the Seattle climbing community.

 

Last year the cleaning of moss and debris at the bouldering area created some controversy when a NPS ranger found tools cached by the boulderers and confiscated them. Around that time, the Access Fund met with NPS officials to start a communication process for local climbers to be informed about the concerns of park rangers. Also, climbers would be informed about the degree of acceptable climbing, bouldering and cleaning. There is great potential for additional climbing areas in the many front-country areas of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area (a sub-unit of North Cascades NP), but the NPS asked local climbers to stop developing both the new bouldering and bolted sport climbing routes while a climbing management plan (CMP) was being developed for the area and resource impacts were analyzed. Local climbers agreed to halt their development of the area while a CMP is developed.

 

In early July, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to the North Cascades National Park Complex and met NPs officials to discuss climbing management alternatives for the CMP and perform a site inspection of the new rock climbing and bouldering areas just upstream from the town of Newhalem. Keith also met with local climbers to hear their concerns and comments for managing the area. He was later accompanied by seven senior level NPs staff - including the park supervisor, chief ranger, and several lead resource specialists - into the field to inspect the sport climbing and bouldering areas. After viewing the climbing and bouldering, park officials expressed concern about the cleaning of moss and leveling of landing zones. Nevertheless, they were open to some new route and bouldering development. The upcoming CMP will likely include a process whereby new sport routes and bouldering can be developed.

 

This fall a climbing management “scoping” letter is planned to go public. A draft CMP should be released for comment sometime this winter. If all goes according to plan, new route development at this excellent area could be authorized by next year’s climbing season. To become involved and comment on the upcoming climbing management plan for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area, write:

 

Roy Zipp

Natural Resource Specialist

North Cascades National Park

7280 Ranger Station Road

Marblemount, WA 98267

Roy_Zipp@nps.gov

 

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Posted

i totally agree with the above sentiments. but boulderers and route developers need to realize that these issues exist. alot of boulder developers seem to give a shit about issues such as this.

 

 

Posted
Cpt.Caveman said:

Don't kill moss or dirt climbers. But the NPS is ready to allow clear cutting and more RV parking lots and campgrounds since it is more environment friendly and cost effective. rolleyes.gif

 

Never mind the big fucking dam in the middle of Ross Lake National Recreation Area. Talk about a wilderness compatible structure!

Posted

You are missing the point. These routes were developed w/o input from the managing agency, and the routes were widely publicized. If you are going to do some guerilla route developement, at least be a little circumspect.

Posted
jhamaker said:

You are missing the point. These routes were developed w/o input from the managing agency, and the routes were widely publicized. If you are going to do some guerilla route developement, at least be a little circumspect.

3 comments:

 

Good relationships with land managers are vital to the climbing community.

 

Ross Lake NRA is a Recreational Area - to be managed for recreational purposes. What's bouldering if not recreation?

 

I personally find it a bit absurd to be concerned about environmental modifications - below Ross Lake!

Posted
jhamaker said:

You are missing the point. These routes were developed w/o input from the managing agency, and the routes were widely publicized. If you are going to do some guerilla route developement, at least be a little circumspect.

 

I am not missing the point. I am only striking another in contrast.

 

The intent of the park service is probably a good one but let's keep history in mind when we think about it is all I wanted to remark with.

 

I bet I know a "culprit" but that's hardly a tag for the NPS sometimes.

Posted
Cpt.Caveman said:

Don't kill moss or dirt climbers. But the NPS is ready to allow clear cutting and more RV parking lots and campgrounds since it is more environment friendly and cost effective. rolleyes.gif

 

Heeeello: New flash. There is no clearcutting in the National Park System. You must mean USFS.

Posted
Luna said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

Don't kill moss or dirt climbers. But the NPS is ready to allow clear cutting and more RV parking lots and campgrounds since it is more environment friendly and cost effective. rolleyes.gif

 

Heeeello: New flash. There is no clearcutting in the National Park System. You must mean USFS.

 

There's no news flash. But the NPS is not exactly MR Rogers now are they smirk.gif

 

http://www.forewordreviews.com/View-Review.asp?ReviewID=16

Posted

When I was in Montana last week watching the state burn, the papers were asking for input as to whether some heavy forest thinning should happen to prevent these horrible fires. I think it'd be a great idea, here too.

Posted
Cpt.Caveman said:

Luna said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

Don't kill moss or dirt climbers. But the NPS is ready to allow clear cutting and more RV parking lots and campgrounds since it is more environment friendly and cost effective. rolleyes.gif

 

Heeeello: New flash. There is no clearcutting in the National Park System. You must mean USFS.

 

There's no news flash. But the NPS is not exactly MR Rogers now are they smirk.gif

 

http://www.forewordreviews.com/View-Review.asp?ReviewID=16

 

True the Parks system is fighting the usual battles, but there is no cattle grazing or timber harvest in National Parks.

Posted
Luna said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

Don't kill moss or dirt climbers. But the NPS is ready to allow clear cutting and more RV parking lots and campgrounds since it is more environment friendly and cost effective. rolleyes.gif

 

Heeeello: New flash. There is no clearcutting in the National Park System. You must mean USFS.

 

While the NPS may not allow clearcutting for timber sale they do do a lot of developement and tree killing to support RV drivers.

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