cracked Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 After flailing my way up the N. ridge of Stuart Sat, Sun, and Mon, I've got a question. I lead both pitches of the Gendarme. The second pitch has a 'fist' section that took a bomber #3.5 Camalot. I tried to fist jam it, but my fists are too large. So the crack was too small for fists, but too big for hands. How the hell do you jam something like this? I ended up laybacking, but I'm really curious what kind of techniques work in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 was it too big for cupped hands? could you reach in farther and get a jam that way? (i've never climbed it so i wouldn't know.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 cracked said: After flailing my way up the N. ridge of Stuart Sat, Sun, and Mon, I've got a question. I lead both pitches of the Gendarme. The second pitch has a 'fist' section that took a bomber #3.5 Camalot. I tried to fist jam it, but my fists are too large. So the crack was too small for fists, but too big for hands. How the hell do you jam something like this? I ended up laybacking, but I'm really curious what kind of techniques work in this situation. Â how dare you call laybacking a "technique" more like the LACK OF TECHNIQUE Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 geez, dru! then wtf are all those wannabe "climbers" doing laybacking apron strings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Cupped hands as tlg suggested, or instead of a fistjam where the thumb and pinky are left-right (i.e. equal depth in the crack), rotate the fist so the thumb is closer and the pinky is further. Raise your index and middle fingers out of the way so that your hand can arch, making the fist narrower. Â Check out the cracks on the slightly-overhanging S-facing wall on the UW Rock. The left one for me goes from good hands to cupped hands, and the one on the right goes from small fists to large fists for me, I believe. Â Many of the .10a handcracks at Index widen to a fist-jam (at least for me) towards the top. Â But damn, you must have huge hands! A blue camelot for me is usually where hands end and fists start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Use a whole role of tape on each hand. Â Actually, like she said, cup your hands. Cammed hands can work good too. Check out "Advanced Rock Climbing" by Long. A close-finger hand jam(which can hury a bit) could help you, it is a fist jam, but sideways. Or maybe try your forearms. Â Personally, when it gets that big I use the cammed hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 You must have some serious meat-clubs for hands if a 3.5 camalot is tight fists or cups. For most people it would be a crunched down #3 or an open #2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 12, 2003 Author Share Posted August 12, 2003 E-rock said: You must have some serious meat-clubs for hands if a 3.5 camalot is tight fists or cups. For most people it would be a crunched down #3 or an open #2. A good #3 is excellent hands for me. A #2 is tight, but still good hands. #3.5 is goes from cups to fists for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 I take it you don't like finger cracks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 cracked said: I ended up laybacking, . Â sporto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Bill_Simpkins said: Use a whole role of tape on each hand. Â Actually, like she said, cup your hands. Cammed hands can work good too. Check out "Advanced Rock Climbing" by Long. A close-finger hand jam(which can hury a bit) could help you, it is a fist jam, but sideways. Or maybe try your forearms. Â Personally, when it gets that big I use the cammed hands. Me too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 12, 2003 Author Share Posted August 12, 2003 eric8 said: cracked said: I ended up laybacking, . Â sporto Let's see you jam it. You're just jealous, that's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 He's slapped so many V5 slopers at the gym dynoing from 8 feet beneath, his hands now are the size of ping-pong paddles. It's true, I've seen it! Â Sporto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 cracked said: After flailing my way up the N. ridge of Stuart Sat, Sun, and Mon, I've got a question. I lead both pitches of the Gendarme. The second pitch has a 'fist' section that took a bomber #3.5 Camalot. I tried to fist jam it, but my fists are too large. So the crack was too small for fists, but too big for hands. How the hell do you jam something like this? I ended up laybacking, but I'm really curious what kind of techniques work in this situation. Â Thrutching, swearing, and bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 glad to see other people found that section difficult, seemed tenuous to me at times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 tenuous = good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 glass-pipe and hold your breath as long as you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Dru said:Â how dare you call laybacking a "technique" more like the LACK OF TECHNIQUE Â haha, like TLG said, some climbs just insist.....try jamming Perry's Layback on Grand Wall..... Â As far as technique, the good thing about the narrow profile fist jam where knuckles are up and the hand is arched, is that squeezing the hand gives a very secure jam whereas a cupped hand jam with knuckles and fingers against the sides of the crack is generally very insecure. Also, jamming deep in the crack can allow a lot of forarm/elbow contact which gives extra security. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 12, 2003 Author Share Posted August 12, 2003 glassgowkiss said: glass-pipe and hold your breath as long as you can  Um, yeah, I'll try that next time. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 matt_warfield said: whereas a cupped hand jam with knuckles and fingers against the sides of the crack is generally very insecure. Â i guess that depends on how cupped! i often find this technique to feel fairly secure. knuckles ... ouch. pain ... good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Leavittation! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 thelawgoddess said: knuckles ... ouch. pain ... good. Â Kaia ... hardass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 i wish. it's actually kind of soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 thelawgoddess said: i wish. it's actually kind of soft. Â altho kind of scraped up from the sunshine chimney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Hand cams: Arm bars: Leavittation: OUCH! But it'll work when nothing else will. Still, ouchies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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