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Gaston_Lagaffe

Where to go for chimneys

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They chopped the bolts? It's not like there's crack pro nearby. Somebody ought to go back up there with glue ins.

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Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney bigdrink.gif

 

Good place to practice chimneying is at the UW Rock. Chimney up the walk through between the Tower and Spinechopper. Also there's a two move squeezer in the the hole on the back of the overhang wall.

 

Damnation Crack has a good chimney. The lower part would be sinker tight hands for Gaston.

 

I used chimney technique galore last time I climbed Slow Children. You can also use chimney technique very effectively on the crux pitch of the Squamish Buttress, though either of those are not really where I'd send a beginner to practice chimney moves.

 

At the top of p1 of Narrow Arrow (the munge version, not the "direct") is a good back-foot chimney. Free-at-last aka Tatoosh has a squeeze chimney with a handcrack in back. P3 of Rattletale has a chimney, 2492crotch_shot_erik-med.jpg as does that Goddess Kring climb to the left of Rattletale if you just go up the easiest way. p1 of Lovin' Arms has a chimney. None of these are as difficult as the buttlips though, well maybe the Tatoosh one.

 

RedRocks gots some good chiminies.

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Gaston fits that description. Plus, you can always bridge it! cool.gif Looks to me like Erik is stylin' it.

 

Plus, I don't think any of my suggestions (except Red Rocks) have any continuous chimney sections longer than 20 feet.

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yeah I think epinephrine (red rox) is a great test of chimney abitilty, you love it or hate it. I hated it and have shunned them ever since. box stemming between corners w/hand craks however is the shit.

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zion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

and epi rocks domes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

i love the wide shit!!!!

danimal has taught me well!

 

 

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chucK said:

Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney bigdrink.gif

 

Good place to practice chimneying is at the UW Rock. Chimney up the walk through between the Tower and Spinechopper. Also there's a two move squeezer in the the hole on the back of the overhang wall.

 

Hahaha, I guess I told Gaston I never climbed chimneys before, but I've done the Fault a few times and those UW rock problems all the time.

 

The stemming problem between the big tower and, uh, "Spinechopper" (?) is the longest one.

 

There are two holes, one between the Spinechopper and the backside of the roof wall, another formed by the east slab (w/ Coach's Crack on the backside) and adjacent slabs.

 

Then there are short stemming problems formed by the big tower and low angle slabs.

 

Finally the best ones I think are the two problems in the two east-facing corners. I don't know what all those names are... The one problem is 90 degree stemming up to the block next to the finger crack, quite easy, the other is on the other side of the east slab (next to Coach's Crack...) and not that easy at all. I slide off that sucker as often as I make it up. Texture only!

 

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Even though many who post here don`t seem to like the place I think that vantage is probably the most easily accessable place to get honed in on chimneys and wide cracks in general. Aside from the afore mentioned seven virgins and a mule here are some other good chimney routes , shady chimney 5.7 at the kingpins and over at middle east wall, disaster factor 5.8 ,and minaret chimney left 5.9 no waiting in line for any of these. For practice on flary things like the butt lips a trip to yosemite might be in order , try moby dick left at the base of el cap 180 ft. of flared v shaped chimney goes at 5.9, kinda like the butt lips only 10 times as long. If you are serious about chimneys invest in some knee pads ,I use some of those neoprene athletic knee brace thingies and wear long pants.

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chucK said:

Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney bigdrink.gif

Free-at-last aka Tatoosh has a squeeze chimney with a handcrack in back.

 

I love that Aries chimney. It's the perfect size for me. evils3d.gif

 

So ChucK, are you talking about the wide section on the first pitch of Tatoosh or the squeeze chimney higher up above the tree scrambling above the Thin Fingers anchors. Both are fun, but I don't remember a handcrack in the upper squeeze chimney. But that thing too a lot of grunting and groaning to get into. It was sweet!

 

Anyone with hands big enough to be locker on the first part of Damnation must be related to the Incredible Hulk IMO. That part was all elbows and knees.

 

Chimneys and wide cracks rockband.gif Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... bigdrink.gif

yelrotflmao.gif

Edited by ehmmic

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ehmmic said:

Anyone with hands big enough to be locker on the first part of Damnation must be related to the Incredible Hulk IMO. That part was all elbows and knees.

 

the very start is perfect hands, maybe a bit tight.......

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grimface and the monk have lots of chimneys. grimface se chimneys has 400 feet of 5.7 squeeze!

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ehmmic said:

So ChucK, are you talking about the wide section on the first pitch of Tatoosh or the squeeze chimney higher up above the tree scrambling above the Thin Fingers anchors. Both are fun, but I don't remember a handcrack in the upper squeeze chimney. But that thing too a lot of grunting and groaning to get into. It was sweet!

Well it's a bit confusing because the first pitch of Tatoosh can be done as two pitches. The squeeze I am writing about is above the ledge that breaks Thin Fingers into two pitches, but below the "Park Benches" that you can scramble to from the very top of Thin Fingers. If you wanna find it, leave right from the ledge between the TF pitches, do a boulder move to get onto a RFC ramp with a sweet finger crack. Follow up more sweet finger crackness and bear a bit right until you are right below, almost inside the squeeze. There is a flake inside that you can use for a foot and forms a perfect handcrack with the left wall for the first half of the squeeze.

 

I'd like know where this chimney is above the Park Benches, if in fact we are talking about different chimneys.

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ehmmic said:

rockband.gif Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... bigdrink.gif

yelrotflmao.gif

 

Sounds like sex...wazzit good? yelrotflmao.gif

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When I did Tatoosh the first time we did the squeeze you're talking about on the first pitch and approached the pitch around the corner to the right side of Thin Fingers. You top out at a ledge with some trees for anchors. Then we went on up through the trees to a ledge where you can build an anchor -- 5.fun dirt scrambling. On the left side of this is a squeeze chimney that is maybe 15 feet tall. You have to really wrestle yourself into it and then squirm up to where you can reach a face hold and help pull yourself up and scramble to another rampy anchor point. I think 2 more pitches gets you to the top of Narrow Arrow, but it was January and a storm came in so we bailed.

 

The second time we did it as an alternative to finishing the "2nd" pitch of Thin Fingers, and stopped at the first ledge of trees (is this the park benches?) and then down climbed through the trees to the top Thin Fingers anchors and my partner TR'd it before we rapped.

 

If you like squeezes, you gotta check out that upper chimney.

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RuMR said:

ehmmic said:

rockband.gif Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... bigdrink.gif

yelrotflmao.gif

 

Sounds like sex...wazzit good? yelrotflmao.gif

 

Awesome, but then I make it a habit of not playing kiss and tell, so I can't make any direct comparisons. wink.gif

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that approach thing on the right side of GNS- Index (4th)

Fault - Castle rock (6)

p2 Beckey Route - Liberty Bell, WA Pass (6)

p1 chimney variation on Stanely Burgner (7) S F Prussik

7 Virgins - Vantage (7)

Aries Chimeny - Index (8)

2nd p Town Crier - Index (8)

4th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (8)

2nd p GM - Index (9)

5th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (pleasant 8 -> hard 9)

Pressure Chamber - Snow Creek Wall (10d)

Carnival Crack - wide OW to chimney, topropable (10d)

 

I think Midnight has some too.

 

Alex

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Hey don't forget Beak Beak Beak Alex! The "chimney" is only a few moves, but it can rough you up.

 

Also, Sagitarius has a short section of what would usually be called a chimney, but on Sag it's the "rest".

 

Oh yeah, and Flebby, to answer your implied question (?), "Spinechopper" is the name often given to the overhanging handcrack at the Rock that if fallen out of would possibly result in your back getting munged on the edge of the tower.

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Alex said:

2nd p GM - Index (9)

 

you mean the undercling to lieback flake to the nice fist crack?

 

and yeah midnight does have some, rollar coaster and easter overhang. and there is like 3 of them off of vw ledge too. tho you gotta climb yellow bird 1st!!!!

 

 

 

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erik said:

Alex said:

2nd p GM - Index (9)

you mean the undercling to lieback flake to the nice fist crack?

 

oh wait no, I meant 3rd p GM. The 2nd pitch is SO short, man, if that went on a while longer it would be doubly cool. I like Heart of the Country and all, but the big swinging solid wide stuff is pretty damn fun!

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3RD PITCH ON GM??

 

THAT IS THE FIST CRACK, I LEAD THOSE TWO PITCHES IN ONE. BECAUSE THE 2ND IS SHORT. MAKES FOR A SOME HEALTHY OFFSIZED THRUTCHING!!!

 

 

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