mattp Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 They chopped the bolts? It's not like there's crack pro nearby. Somebody ought to go back up there with glue ins. Quote
Figger_Eight Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 First pitch of Midway has some good body scumming action. I dunno if it's considered a chimney though. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Along those lines, Easter overhang is pretty mungy... Quote
chucK Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney  Good place to practice chimneying is at the UW Rock. Chimney up the walk through between the Tower and Spinechopper. Also there's a two move squeezer in the the hole on the back of the overhang wall.  Damnation Crack has a good chimney. The lower part would be sinker tight hands for Gaston.  I used chimney technique galore last time I climbed Slow Children. You can also use chimney technique very effectively on the crux pitch of the Squamish Buttress, though either of those are not really where I'd send a beginner to practice chimney moves.  At the top of p1 of Narrow Arrow (the munge version, not the "direct") is a good back-foot chimney. Free-at-last aka Tatoosh has a squeeze chimney with a handcrack in back. P3 of Rattletale has a chimney, as does that Goddess Kring climb to the left of Rattletale if you just go up the easiest way. p1 of Lovin' Arms has a chimney. None of these are as difficult as the buttlips though, well maybe the Tatoosh one.  RedRocks gots some good chiminies. Quote
Mr._Natural Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Chuck, unless you are 6'+ you will only be able to stem around 20 or so feet of that rattletail pitch. Quote
chucK Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Gaston fits that description. Plus, you can always bridge it! Looks to me like Erik is stylin' it. Â Plus, I don't think any of my suggestions (except Red Rocks) have any continuous chimney sections longer than 20 feet. Quote
Mr._Natural Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 yeah I think epinephrine (red rox) is a great test of chimney abitilty, you love it or hate it. I hated it and have shunned them ever since. box stemming between corners w/hand craks however is the shit. Quote
erik Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 zion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Â and epi rocks domes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Â i love the wide shit!!!! danimal has taught me well! Â Â Quote
fleblebleb Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 chucK said: Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney  Good place to practice chimneying is at the UW Rock. Chimney up the walk through between the Tower and Spinechopper. Also there's a two move squeezer in the the hole on the back of the overhang wall.  Hahaha, I guess I told Gaston I never climbed chimneys before, but I've done the Fault a few times and those UW rock problems all the time.  The stemming problem between the big tower and, uh, "Spinechopper" (?) is the longest one.  There are two holes, one between the Spinechopper and the backside of the roof wall, another formed by the east slab (w/ Coach's Crack on the backside) and adjacent slabs.  Then there are short stemming problems formed by the big tower and low angle slabs.  Finally the best ones I think are the two problems in the two east-facing corners. I don't know what all those names are... The one problem is 90 degree stemming up to the block next to the finger crack, quite easy, the other is on the other side of the east slab (next to Coach's Crack...) and not that easy at all. I slide off that sucker as often as I make it up. Texture only!  Quote
k.rose Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Even though many who post here don`t seem to like the place I think that vantage is probably the most easily accessable place to get honed in on chimneys and wide cracks in general. Aside from the afore mentioned seven virgins and a mule here are some other good chimney routes , shady chimney 5.7 at the kingpins and over at middle east wall, disaster factor 5.8 ,and minaret chimney left 5.9 no waiting in line for any of these. For practice on flary things like the butt lips a trip to yosemite might be in order , try moby dick left at the base of el cap 180 ft. of flared v shaped chimney goes at 5.9, kinda like the butt lips only 10 times as long. If you are serious about chimneys invest in some knee pads ,I use some of those neoprene athletic knee brace thingies and wear long pants. Quote
chelle Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 (edited) chucK said: Very glad to see peoples out working the Aries chimney Free-at-last aka Tatoosh has a squeeze chimney with a handcrack in back. Â I love that Aries chimney. It's the perfect size for me. Â So ChucK, are you talking about the wide section on the first pitch of Tatoosh or the squeeze chimney higher up above the tree scrambling above the Thin Fingers anchors. Both are fun, but I don't remember a handcrack in the upper squeeze chimney. But that thing too a lot of grunting and groaning to get into. It was sweet! Â Anyone with hands big enough to be locker on the first part of Damnation must be related to the Incredible Hulk IMO. That part was all elbows and knees. Â Chimneys and wide cracks Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... Edited July 22, 2003 by ehmmic Quote
erik Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 ehmmic said: Anyone with hands big enough to be locker on the first part of Damnation must be related to the Incredible Hulk IMO. That part was all elbows and knees. Â the very start is perfect hands, maybe a bit tight....... Quote
chelle Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Okay... I guess you're right about the first few moves. Quote
Dru Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 grimface and the monk have lots of chimneys. grimface se chimneys has 400 feet of 5.7 squeeze! Quote
chucK Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 ehmmic said: So ChucK, are you talking about the wide section on the first pitch of Tatoosh or the squeeze chimney higher up above the tree scrambling above the Thin Fingers anchors. Both are fun, but I don't remember a handcrack in the upper squeeze chimney. But that thing too a lot of grunting and groaning to get into. It was sweet! Well it's a bit confusing because the first pitch of Tatoosh can be done as two pitches. The squeeze I am writing about is above the ledge that breaks Thin Fingers into two pitches, but below the "Park Benches" that you can scramble to from the very top of Thin Fingers. If you wanna find it, leave right from the ledge between the TF pitches, do a boulder move to get onto a RFC ramp with a sweet finger crack. Follow up more sweet finger crackness and bear a bit right until you are right below, almost inside the squeeze. There is a flake inside that you can use for a foot and forms a perfect handcrack with the left wall for the first half of the squeeze. Â I'd like know where this chimney is above the Park Benches, if in fact we are talking about different chimneys. Quote
RuMR Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 ehmmic said: Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... Â Sounds like sex...wazzit good? Quote
chelle Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 When I did Tatoosh the first time we did the squeeze you're talking about on the first pitch and approached the pitch around the corner to the right side of Thin Fingers. You top out at a ledge with some trees for anchors. Then we went on up through the trees to a ledge where you can build an anchor -- 5.fun dirt scrambling. On the left side of this is a squeeze chimney that is maybe 15 feet tall. You have to really wrestle yourself into it and then squirm up to where you can reach a face hold and help pull yourself up and scramble to another rampy anchor point. I think 2 more pitches gets you to the top of Narrow Arrow, but it was January and a storm came in so we bailed. Â The second time we did it as an alternative to finishing the "2nd" pitch of Thin Fingers, and stopped at the first ledge of trees (is this the park benches?) and then down climbed through the trees to the top Thin Fingers anchors and my partner TR'd it before we rapped. Â If you like squeezes, you gotta check out that upper chimney. Quote
chelle Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 RuMR said: ehmmic said: Thrutch...thrutch...breathe...grunt... Â Sounds like sex...wazzit good? Â Awesome, but then I make it a habit of not playing kiss and tell, so I can't make any direct comparisons. Quote
Alex Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 that approach thing on the right side of GNS- Index (4th) Fault - Castle rock (6) p2 Beckey Route - Liberty Bell, WA Pass (6) p1 chimney variation on Stanely Burgner (7) S F Prussik 7 Virgins - Vantage (7) Aries Chimeny - Index (8) 2nd p Town Crier - Index (8) 4th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (8) 2nd p GM - Index (9) 5th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (pleasant 8 -> hard 9) Pressure Chamber - Snow Creek Wall (10d) Carnival Crack - wide OW to chimney, topropable (10d) Â I think Midnight has some too. Â Alex Quote
chucK Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Hey don't forget Beak Beak Beak Alex! The "chimney" is only a few moves, but it can rough you up. Â Also, Sagitarius has a short section of what would usually be called a chimney, but on Sag it's the "rest". Â Oh yeah, and Flebby, to answer your implied question (?), "Spinechopper" is the name often given to the overhanging handcrack at the Rock that if fallen out of would possibly result in your back getting munged on the edge of the tower. Quote
erik Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Alex said: 2nd p GM - Index (9) Â you mean the undercling to lieback flake to the nice fist crack? Â and yeah midnight does have some, rollar coaster and easter overhang. and there is like 3 of them off of vw ledge too. tho you gotta climb yellow bird 1st!!!! Â Â Â Quote
Charlie Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Aries chimney- sent that mofo on sunday! Left me pretty scraped up. Quote
rbw1966 Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Alpenjager, Crown Point Oregon. Â Bring a clean pair of underwear. Quote
Alex Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 erik said: Alex said: 2nd p GM - Index (9) you mean the undercling to lieback flake to the nice fist crack? Â oh wait no, I meant 3rd p GM. The 2nd pitch is SO short, man, if that went on a while longer it would be doubly cool. I like Heart of the Country and all, but the big swinging solid wide stuff is pretty damn fun! Quote
erik Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 3RD PITCH ON GM?? Â THAT IS THE FIST CRACK, I LEAD THOSE TWO PITCHES IN ONE. BECAUSE THE 2ND IS SHORT. MAKES FOR A SOME HEALTHY OFFSIZED THRUTCHING!!! Â Â Quote
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