j_b Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Aries Chimney at Index what? i think this is a great pitch, even if a little short. it has great rock, requires good technique, takes good pro, and yet still scares most people ( ). i only wish it was twice as long, then it'd be a classic. funny, how such differing opinions about climb worthiness can coexist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Chimney of Space on Mt. Washington (Oregon). Running water, tons of moss, no pro, chossy as hell and poor anchors. Luckily most people aren't dumb enough to climb it, so it isn't crowded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ALL OF ROGERS CORNER IS BLAH. MT MAUDE N FACE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 I think "worst route ever" is a little extreme for Mt. Maude, Erik, but it certainliy is far from the classic that so many people make it out to be -- and it is not an ice climb, either. Even in September. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 The three-bolt, 20' climbs at the east end of Exit 38 past the trestle. So shitty and worthless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ummm anything at 38... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ummm anything at 38... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Winter said: Chimney of Space on Mt. Washington (Oregon). Running water, tons of moss, no pro, chossy as hell and poor anchors. Luckily most people aren't dumb enough to climb it, so it isn't crowded. oh come now, just because a route puts people in the hospital is no reason to go badmouthing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 i have the hardest time thinking of a worse climb. it is nothing exceptional by cascades standard but i'd go with the NE Butt. of North 3 fingers. terrible bushwack on the approach, several hundred feet of vertical trees to begin with, wet (running water) and slabby gully (no pro, therefore 4th class), etc ... we bailed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Many routes here are getting panned because of choss, but how can we say "worst" for choss. There are literally hundreds of horrible, identical, worthless piles of death at Vantage alone. Aries chimney at Index? How can you say that Alex? That pitchlet is great fun and challenge. I really would be interested in hearing why you think it is so terrible. Have you done Beak Beak Beak? Here's a couple of worthless ones that plenty of people seem to do: The West Ridge of Thompson, That dumb climb on the right corner of the Blackstone at Little Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Harlin Quarry just west of Corvallis. Drilled pockets, loose dirty rock and the locals use it as a shooting range. Pillars of Hercules could rank up there too. It is right next to the freeway and railroad tracks. loose rock, moss and minimal pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 chucK said: Aries chimney at Index? How can you say that Alex? That pitchlet is great fun and challenge. I really would be interested in hearing why you think it is so terrible. Have you done Beak Beak Beak? Funny you should mention Beak Beak Beak. I climbed it last night. I thought it was kind of stupid. As for Aries chimney, there is no doubt it is undeserving of "worst route" status, I just hate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 What does stupid mean? Contrived? Easy? Dirty? Man you coulda been at the Calendar Crag! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Geesh, how about 'That .10d Route' at Smith? Apparently someone's eye for an aesthetic line caused them to overlook some of the shabbiest rock at Smith. Oh, it looks like some of the nice, solid red stuff, but it crumbles like the yellowest of SmithMud . First damn hold on the route, nice big undercling flake? Loose. All the footholds at the bottom? Loose. Innumerable other sidepulls and edges? Loose. And gritty. That bomber thank-God sidepull just above the mini-roof at the top? It's on the trail somewhere. Climb it soon before it turns into .13c, if you're dumb enough to climb it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Worst crag route = anything at Rocky Butte. Dust, poison oak, broken glass, urine, garbage, graffitti, and a deafening interstate freeway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 chucK said: Here's a couple of worthless ones that plenty of people seem to do: The West Ridge of Thompson, That dumb climb on the right corner of the Blackstone at Little Si. What's so bad about Thompson? It's a cool-looking mountain... At Little Si, do you mean that super-short easy crack or the 5.8 bolted route with ledges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 The Back Road at Index (At least the first two pitches; I never got around to the last two.) The last pitch of Dana's Arch (A2 mungefest). Aunt Fannie's Pantry (pure stupidity, unless you like jamming dirt, leaves and ants) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Stick with the East Ridge of Thompson if you wanna bag a cool mountain. But I guess you could do worse than the West Ridge. Just a lot of work (long trail, ugly long choss gully) to get to a few mediocre pitches. I looked up my Little Si submission: "Human Foot" (5.8 ) I thought the first pitch of The Back Road at Index was kinda cool. A sandbagged boulder problem, followed by a wafer-thin flake followed by a lightning bolt roofs feature . Someone ought put an anchor right at the top of that part so you don't have to scrunge left through the bushes afterwards. Hey Alex, did you go right under the big roof on BBB then turn the roof as per Newest Industry? That way is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Hey that climb at little Si ain't so bad. It's great for taking beginners for their first time on rock. The start does kinda suck, but the rest of it has okay moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 chucK said: Hey Alex, did you go right under the big roof on BBB then turn the roof as per Newest Industry? That way is fun. how else would you finish BBB? just did that a few weeks ago and didn't see any other way to go. (pretty cool climb, bottom is strenuous for the grade but the traverse and roof finish are neat) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 "shaved like the shape of a heart" City Of Rocks. Loose,scary and now much harder after all the stuff we pulled off leading it. All the shit on the left at fourth of july rock. Pure garbage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Fossil Rock- Reason- There aint nuttin else near there. But if you live and die in Tacoma you might visit. I'm not cappin on anyone that does or puts up routes there. It's just an opinion. Some other shitty routes: Anything in Toulomne Meadows or Lovers Leap Ok everyone knows Fossil is a choss pile almost as choss as the Feathers, at least at Fossil the bolts looked trust worthy not that I would climb there again, once was enough , spooky look'n holds. But what up with Lovers Leap,I dug those 400ft cracks with an easy walk off,and cool when the big ditch is hot. Toulomne Meadows way cool , love that white granite, the thunderstorms were a bit much. Dude you spoiled by Leavenworth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Beardsley Boulders, outside of Phoenix, are truly crap: paint, broken beer bottles, garbage and fixed rugs everywhere. Almost no climbing, hotter than hell, and fuckin' ugly. The rock is slippery and sharp, and avoiding graffiti is the crux to the few scant problems you will find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONCHO&LEFTY Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Below the Oyster Dome trail there is a rock that me and a friend top roped. Horrible rock constant rockfall, but the belayer was safe because we had to belay from the top of a parked train since the rope did not reach! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 worst ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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