Rod_Xuereb Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Has anyone been in there lately or have any usefull info regarding pro 1 or 2 ropes etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 You might do well to provide more explanation as to which Chimney Rock you are referring. I know of at least three sites by that name in the PNW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Idaho, Washinton or Montana? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Probably talking about the route in Nelson's book "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" - same route on which Potterfield had his epic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Dane said: Idaho, Washinton or Montana? Â Exactly! Â I know we've had this discussion about better clarification here before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod_Xuereb Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 Sorry. Chimney Rock , E. Face Direct in Washington. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tread_tramp Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 So, if anyone's done this route, can you rap off with a single 50 meter rope? Need we lug an extra rope up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Wave_Dave Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 We rappelled with 2 50's so I can't help you much; my impression was that the terrain from the summit to the main ledge system was broken and offered good rap points. You could certainly make it work and wouldn't get stranded anywhere. Once you are on the ledge, it's a simple traverse then downclimb through the main gully system back to the glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 One rope was just fine for getting off as of a couple years ago. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 one 50m rope Rod, have fun, nice climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeman Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 When we lowered Peter it was two 300 foot lowers - from a huge nest of manky pins. Of course that's not the climbing route. The booty is still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tread_tramp Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I finaly found my password so I will comment, for what it's worth. Rod and I didn't summit. Continuing in the Potterfield tradition, I took a spill on Chimney Rock. The length of the fall and the extent of the injuries certainly were not near what Peter experienced. My partner lowered me a couple hundred feet over a four hour period to the top of the heather ramp at 7,000ft on the east face direct route. Then he went for help. So I spent the night there with two broken feet. It was a thrill when I heard the helecopter coming after 18 hours on the ledge. There was no massive rescue launched; just the Huey and it's four crew members. But it was a bold manuever on their part getting me off, for which I am grateful. The chopper came in very close to the rock face in order to get the cable connected to the little t-bar I had to sit on. And it was a wild ride getting lifted off the ledge. So, after two weeks at Harborview and a couple months at a nursing facility, I'm hobbling around on crutches, waiting for weight bearing status on my left foot. Ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 13, 2003 Share Posted September 13, 2003 Ho man, sorry to hear that Ralph! I mean, glad you're alive, but what a drag. I think life could be quite complete even without such an experience. Hope your recovery goes well and swiftly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 Damn Ralph sorry to here bout that. I as well wish you a speedy recovery. for the SAR people and to your partner. Is that Mt. jinxed or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 lemme know if you have any questions regarding two broken feet, recovery time, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 So what is it about Chimney Rock that brings on so many accidents? Just chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 catbirdseat said: So what is it about Chimney Rock that brings on so many accidents? Just chance? Â How many? I know of two, one of which made it to the cover of Reader's Digest. We had a close call on the descent, just before stepping onto the glacier. I watched a softball-sized rock rocket down a steep chute and come within two feet of killing my friend (group of Mounties above), but outside of that we thought the route was kind of fun. You can easily descend with a single 50m rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 tread_tramp said: I finaly found my password so I will comment, for what it's worth. Rod and I didn't summit. Continuing in the Potterfield tradition, I took a spill on Chimney Rock. The length of the fall and the extent of the injuries certainly were not near what Peter experienced. My partner lowered me a couple hundred feet over a four hour period to the top of the heather ramp at 7,000ft on the east face direct route. Then he went for help. So I spent the night there with two broken feet. It was a thrill when I heard the helecopter coming after 18 hours on the ledge. There was no massive rescue launched; just the Huey and it's four crew members. But it was a bold manuever on their part getting me off, for which I am grateful. The chopper came in very close to the rock face in order to get the cable connected to the little t-bar I had to sit on. And it was a wild ride getting lifted off the ledge. So, after two weeks at Harborview and a couple months at a nursing facility, I'm hobbling around on crutches, waiting for weight bearing status on my left foot. Ralph  Jesus dude. Glad you made it out and best wishes on a speedy recovery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tread_tramp Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 Pope's right about the rocks. On the 2nd pitch a boulder just missed Rods head, but didn't miss the rope. As I was pulling in the rope I see this tear in the rope, and I'm thinking, 'how we going to rap off. It was like all the way round the sheaf , and with just 6 strands of the core still intact. fortunately it was only 14ft from the end. So instead of taking it as an omen, we kept climbing with just a 45m rope. Fortunately that was enough to get me down to where I spent the night and Rod the rest of the way down to the glacier. For the last rap he did leave the rope tied in so he could past the moat. So there might still be a single strand hanging down the first pitch. Also left a couple pieces on the 6th pitch, where I fell. And a few pieces were left where I spent the night. So there's plenty of booty for the next team up. But I'm sure it's all gone by now. Â Weigt bearing status on my left foot in two weeks. But I'm getting the hang of these crutches in the meantime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Been there. Done that. (breaking feet...helicopter...) Good to see you live through your accident Ralph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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