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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

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Uncle_Tricky

best of cc.com Friction is stranger than truth

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Elmer is a "composite character". He's a collection of all the worst attributes that a climbing partner can have, all rolled into one. Climb long enough and we'll all see bits and pieces of Elmer, but hopefully not all in the same partner.

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I had the thought of a creating a curated collection of some the best trip reports and calling 'Uncle Tricky's Bed Time Stories'. His story about his go around with the snafflehound in his cabin is pretty awesome, some TRs by Mike Layton are pretty classic and anything by Tvash or Ivan would make some great bathroom reading.

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joshk still's rocking that one for his public shitter? :lmao:

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oh man i'd kill for some good bed time stories like this. i think i'll go to bed now feeling happy that while i'm an idiot, i'm not nearly as incompetent as elmer.

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Too funny! I would seriously consider bailing right then and there if someone wanted to rope up for the approach. Is it possible to even place 11 pieces on that 2nd pitch??

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I can't help myself and comment on his anchor, which is clearly a work of art--if you're a Celtic knotsmith or some sort of mad engineer. The anchor consisted of 4 cams and 3 nuts each qualized with double clove hitches and backed up with a secondary anchor composed of two tricams, a hex, two RPs, a cordellete and four slings. Granted, I'm a fan of bombproof anchors, but this one could have survived a direct napalm airstrike followed by a nuclear holocaust and still held a factor 5 fall.

 

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