texplorer Posted June 5, 2003 Posted June 5, 2003 With the proliferation of retro-bolters these days rebolting and putting up new safer lines I propose the development of a new organization to steady the tide of safe climbing. After all, think about how well have to change all the guidebooks in a few year's by having to take out the mandatory first page (Rock climbing is inherently dangerous. . . blah blah blah)' Lets make climbing scary again! I am currently working with the International Snafflehound Society board of trustees to develop this new organization. I haven't come up with a suitable name yet but the general idea is to go and chop bolts on reasonably bolted routes. We could start with the chopping the 3rd bolt making the clip on the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts a possible deck potential. Then we could move on to anchors. Chopping the beefy anchors and maybe putting in a star-bolt. Of course there would be the total choppage of stupidly bolted routes too. If any of you have any rusty pitons, old star-bolts, homemade angle iron anchor setups please contact me. We are also looking for a representative for the WA area. All inquirys are welcome. Tell us what you think! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 5, 2003 Posted June 5, 2003 i got a handfull of handmade bolts and pins... Put those at the 3rd bolt...then they think they will be safe...ha! Quote
ScottP Posted June 5, 2003 Posted June 5, 2003 Make sure to add some of those homemade-angle-aluminum-meathook bolt hangars to those star-dryvin 1/4 inchers. Also, remove the nut and strip the threads off some1/4 inchers and angle them downward for those spicy stopper-looping clips. Quote
Mike Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 As you're chopping bolts, will you also put up new routes and maybe rebolt the routes with bad bolt placement? It'll seem more constructive that way. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Sign me up, Tex! I have a mod kit that turns a Bosch Bulldog into a power chisel for those that think a good ol' crow bar is too archaic. Quote
sk Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 (edited) I have a first project for you. It seems the 5.8 test peice I was going to work on this summer has been retrobolted Now if I make it it just wont be as sweet, or the acomplishement that I was hoping for. I want it back the way it was when I stood at the bottom and my knees shook last season. Edited June 6, 2003 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote
snoboy Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Just take off the offending hangers and go for it Muffy. Just don't fall, coz it would hurt to hit a naked stud on the way by. Quote
spew Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: I have a first project for you. It seems the 5.8 test peice I was going to work on this summer has been retrobolted Now if I make it it just wont be as sweet, or the acomplishement that I was hoping for. I want it back the way it was when I stood at the bottom and my knees shook last season. How about some background beta: where, established crack? I have seen very few truly reto bolted cracks, if so I would chop it my self. If you chop, do it right and do it clean or you will be no better than the retrobolter. Don't forget a chicken bolt is just as needed on a unprotectable 5.8 as a 5.11 /5.12 test peice it all depends on whos route it is and your comfort level. Quote
Paul_detrick Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Since your looking for a troll, and trying to get people fired up, Why don't you call yourshelfs climbers who can't let it go. I agree there are routes that are over bolted, but I don't have to clip everyone if I don't want to. There has been some good talk here in other post on this, that could help, this will not. Quote
Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 snoboy said: Just take off the offending hangers and go for it Muffy. Just don't fall, coz it would hurt to hit a naked stud on the way by. How did Trask let this line pass by? Quote
RuMR Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Yeah no doubt... He must not have had his morning cup o' joe yet... Quote
sk Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 spew said: Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: I have a first project for you. It seems the 5.8 test peice I was going to work on this summer has been retrobolted Now if I make it it just wont be as sweet, or the acomplishement that I was hoping for. I want it back the way it was when I stood at the bottom and my knees shook last season. How about some background beta: where, established crack? I have seen very few truly reto bolted cracks, if so I would chop it my self. If you chop, do it right and do it clean or you will be no better than the retrobolter. Don't forget a chicken bolt is just as needed on a unprotectable 5.8 as a 5.11 /5.12 test peice it all depends on whos route it is and your comfort level. Spew It is not a crack. It is a face climb. I am unsure as to if the rumers are true, but I have heard that Hydrotube at Flagstone has had bolts added over the off season. It was a spicey slab climb, and I looked forword to testing myself on it. Again, I am unsure as to weather this is true. I am heading on Sunday and will take a look and report back. Here is my deal. There are quite a few climbs at flagstone. It is realy a beautiful place. I have met the Fralick brothers who did alot of the route setting out there. They did so with vission, and forsight. The climbs (although I am not good enough to climb most of them) are well thought out and asthetic in my never humble oppinion. To add bolts to a well established route that is a wonderful example of what slab climbing should be, well I think that is yucky. In the guide book it sugests a #2 friend to protect the run out bottom. That is enough info. Climbing is hard. It is suposed to be hard, challenging, even life thretening. again, this could alll be rumer, I will let you know... sorry for the rant Quote
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