Attitude Posted May 4, 2003 Share Posted May 4, 2003 always on top! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted May 4, 2003 Share Posted May 4, 2003 You said it all but seem to have missed the point. Szyjakowski said: ...sorry, i was grabbin my beer... ...Moral of the story. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 4, 2003 Share Posted May 4, 2003 Seems like its a good day when at the crags and I only take a couple 20 footers. I think the longest fall I took was running oot the first crux on the full Jap Garden pitch. Maybe 30 or so feet. Really fun. All air! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 4, 2003 Share Posted May 4, 2003 That's one of my goals for this summer Tim - get (atleast) the redpoint on the full Jap Gardens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 4, 2003 Author Share Posted May 4, 2003 joe_retard said: My whipper was bigger than your whipper! Joseph  True to his name... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtflyfisher Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Diedre- fell at the step up/over 1/2-way up the dihedral. I just kept skidding down the rather grinding granite. When it all finally stopped I looked up to the last piece I'd placed (that held) and noticed that ALL the other pieces on the pitch were gone. I asked my belayer where they had gone and he says "oh, they all fell out before you fell, I didn't want to scare you so I didn't tell you. Â This taught me two things: If I don't learn to place gear I will soon be dead and my climbing buddy has the judgement of a drunk flea. Â I also learned that any fall on Deidre is so lame that I should probably start golfing with the blown-tendon guy..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 I can still climb Diedre though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 30 ft on Barbed for Your Pleasure at Vantage. A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage, I still like to get in a hex, where I can. I missed two broken ankles by about a foot. A hex might have saved Goran's bacon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 catbirdseat said: A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage, well 2 things if the placements good then a cam or hex is going to be bomber. 2nd most people dont use runners but ussally at least put draws on there gear, this helps preventing the cam from walking which happens at vatage alot due to the smooth vertical cracks on most the climbs. heres a fun thing to do, clip the cam straight to the rope and watcxh it as you climb past. they almost always rotate up and or walk up if the crack is tappered( like on most vatage climbs), if you then put a draw or preferably a longer runner on it as you climb past the runner simply bounces around not walking the cam into a wider spot or out of the crack. the down fall to long runners is that they do increase your fall by like 1-2ft but thats bettrer then decking cause your cam walked and pulled out. hexes seem better cause a well set hex porbaly wont move at all regardless on weather it has a runner or not, but they can and so can nutts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 my scrayest fall, although a bit pannsey compared to most of the posts, i would hit the ground head first from about 20-25ft if my belayer did'nt catch me after about 1o-15ft. rope hooked my leg after travseing rt about 5ft and then missing a deadpoint while trying to get over a bludge, causeing me to flip over fall upside down during the fall. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 5, 2003 Author Share Posted May 5, 2003 catbirdseat said: 30 ft on Barbed for Your Pleasure at Vantage. A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage, I still like to get in a hex, where I can. I missed two broken ankles by about a foot. A hex might have saved Goran's bacon. Â Yeah, but the cowbells are a bitchkitty to clean after a fall on them-small price to pay for solid protection, but not advisable if one falls a lot and is also in a hurry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Aid - Thin Red Line - the last roof just before M&M Ledge - Placed an alien, bounce tested it, transferred weight, back cleaned my last piece (I was linking two pitches and unsure if I had enough rope and gear, this greatly lessened a dog leg). Â Ping! Â Landed on the slab, tumbled ass over tea kettle several times, stopped 50 feet below my high pint. Luckily, My head lamp escaped unscathed and still attached (it was midnight) Â Shitty thing was that when I went back up, and because I had a light rack , I had to place the exact same cam in the exact same place. Oye. Pulled a hook move next, then I placed my first pin ever. Pounded the shit out of that thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 FELL OFF THE WAGON YESTERDAY!!! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 erik said: FELL OFF THE WAGON YESTERDAY!!! Â yeah, we did... Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! those wheels never go round and round forever... do they?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 I think this is a dumb thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Not quite as dumb as the "Hardest Onsight," but close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 I prefer the more subtle stealth chest-beating that show up in the gear section sometimes ... " Oh yeah hexes are great, this one time when I was free-climbing the nose I slotted in a bomber #10 ... blah blah." Â the "is your hardest climb harder than my hardest climb?" approach lacks craftsmanship. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 I dunno Fern, they just sound like stories to me. Most of the routes discussed aren't chestbeater affairs anyway, and there's not much glory to be had in falling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Lessee, here ... Scariest was an ~30-footer off a local crag in Southern Oregon. Seems the brand new 10.2mm rope (when 10.2mm was really skinny)/ATC combo was a little slippery, and what should have been a short fall (like 6 or 8 feet) kept going. Belayer managed to get control of the rope as DFA came to a stop about a foot from the ground, smack dab between the base of the crag and a big boulder. It was a traversing move with high footholds, so the Doctor was essentially horizontal, and if the fall had been completed to the deck, would have meant landing directly on the spine and smacking the skull on the rocky ground. Â Otherwise, 20+ feet peeling from the crux of Churning and coming to a stop around the 2nd bolt. Nice clean fall, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Lessee, here ... Scariest was an ~30-footer off a local crag in Southern Oregon. Seems the brand new 10.2mm rope (when 10.2mm was really skinny)/ATC combo was a little slippery, and what should have been a short fall (like 6 or 8 feet) kept going. Belayer managed to get control of the rope as DFA came to a stop about a foot from the ground, smack dab between the base of the crag and a big boulder. It was a traversing move with high footholds, so the Doctor was essentially horizontal, and if the fall had been completed to the deck, would have meant landing directly on the spine and smacking the skull on the rocky ground. Â Good thing you had your helmet on!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 Yeah ... helmet ... right! Good thing! Â Not that a climbing helmet would have done shit in that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted May 5, 2003 Share Posted May 5, 2003 At least you'd of been able to consciously contemplate your permanent paralysis from your wheelchair, rather than to suffer obliviously as a paralyzed vegatable. See? Helmets are IMPORTANT! They keep you from dying if you should be horribly maimed. I recently stopped wearing my bike helmet for this very reason! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 (edited) 50 feet into a moat on shucksun, unroped. Landed on my back. Hurt my knee, crawled and walked out. Â Fell 10' onto an icescrew that Gene Pires told me not to put in. Â 20 feet (not too far) with my 1st climb ever w/Necro about 4 years ago. Landed upsidedown on a #1 nut. Necro found his partner. Â 15' onto my back and feet friday. Broke both feet. Edited May 6, 2003 by michael_layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 michael_layton said: 50 feet into a moat on shucksun, unroped. Landed on my back. Hurt my knee, crawled and walked out. Â Fell 10' onto an icescrew that Gene Pires told me not to put in. Â 20 feet (not too far) with my 1st climb ever w/Necro about 4 years ago. Landed upsidedown on a #1 nut. Necro found his partner. Â 15' onto my back and feet friday. Broke both feet. Â Sorry about your foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 I am not worthy to post my pathetic falls on here. I am impressed that there are any CC.comer's left. Everyone seems to have a "big one" story. All the same I'd just assume keep my personal record whipper's under 30fters. Entertaining to hear the stories though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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