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Posted

Seems like its a good day when at the crags and I only take a couple 20 footers. I think the longest fall I took was running oot the first crux on the full Jap Garden pitch. Maybe 30 or so feet. Really fun. All air!

Posted

Diedre- fell at the step up/over 1/2-way up the dihedral. I just kept skidding down the rather grinding granite. When it all finally stopped I looked up to the last piece I'd placed (that held) and noticed that ALL the other pieces on the pitch were gone. I asked my belayer where they had gone and he says "oh, they all fell out before you fell, I didn't want to scare you so I didn't tell you.

 

This taught me two things: If I don't learn to place gear I will soon be dead and my climbing buddy has the judgement of a drunk flea.

 

I also learned that any fall on Deidre is so lame that I should probably start golfing with the blown-tendon guy..... rolleyes.gifthumbs_down.gif

Posted

30 ft on Barbed for Your Pleasure at Vantage. A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage, I still like to get in a hex, where I can. I missed two broken ankles by about a foot. A hex might have saved Goran's bacon.

Posted
catbirdseat said:

A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage,

well 2 things if the placements good then a cam or

hex is going to be bomber.

2nd most people dont use runners

but ussally at least put draws on

there gear, this helps preventing

the cam from walking which happens

at vatage alot due to the smooth vertical cracks

on most the climbs. heres a fun thing to do, clip the cam straight to the rope and watcxh it as you climb past.

they almost always rotate up and or walk up if the crack is tappered( like on most vatage climbs), if you then

put a draw or preferably a longer runner on it as you climb past the runner simply bounces around not

walking the cam into a wider spot or out of the crack.

the down fall to long runners is that they do increase

your fall by like 1-2ft but thats bettrer then decking cause your cam walked and pulled out.

hexes seem better cause a well set hex porbaly wont move at all regardless on weather it has a runner or not, but they can and so can nutts

Posted

my scrayest fall, although a bit pannsey compared to most of the posts, i would hit the ground head first from about 20-25ft if my belayer did'nt catch me after about 1o-15ft. rope hooked my leg after travseing rt about 5ft and then missing a deadpoint while trying to get over a bludge, causeing me to flip over fall upside down during the fall.

 

Posted
catbirdseat said:

30 ft on Barbed for Your Pleasure at Vantage. A cam pulled and I fell onto a solid hex. Despite what the "experts" say about cams being the best pro for vantage, I still like to get in a hex, where I can. I missed two broken ankles by about a foot. A hex might have saved Goran's bacon.

 

Yeah, but the cowbells are a bitchkitty to clean after a fall on them-small price to pay for solid protection, but not advisable if one falls a lot and is also in a hurry... wave.gif

Posted

Aid - Thin Red Line - the last roof just before M&M Ledge - Placed an alien, bounce tested it, transferred weight, back cleaned my last piece (I was linking two pitches and unsure if I had enough rope and gear, this greatly lessened a dog leg).

 

Ping!

 

Landed on the slab, tumbled ass over tea kettle several times, stopped 50 feet below my high pint. Luckily, My head lamp escaped unscathed and still attached (it was midnight)

 

Shitty thing was that when I went back up, and because I had a light rack , I had to place the exact same cam in the exact same place. Oye. Pulled a hook move next, then I placed my first pin ever. Pounded the shit out of that thing

Posted

I prefer the more subtle stealth chest-beating that show up in the gear section sometimes ... " Oh yeah hexes are great, this one time when I was free-climbing the nose I slotted in a bomber #10 ... blah blah."

 

the "is your hardest climb harder than my hardest climb?" approach lacks craftsmanship.

 

yellaf.gif

 

Posted

Lessee, here ... Scariest was an ~30-footer off a local crag in Southern Oregon. Seems the brand new 10.2mm rope (when 10.2mm was really skinny)/ATC combo was a little slippery, and what should have been a short fall (like 6 or 8 feet) kept going. Belayer managed to get control of the rope as DFA came to a stop about a foot from the ground, smack dab between the base of the crag and a big boulder. It was a traversing move with high footholds, so the Doctor was essentially horizontal, and if the fall had been completed to the deck, would have meant landing directly on the spine and smacking the skull on the rocky ground.

 

Otherwise, 20+ feet peeling from the crux of Churning and coming to a stop around the 2nd bolt. Nice clean fall, though.

Posted
Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

Lessee, here ... Scariest was an ~30-footer off a local crag in Southern Oregon. Seems the brand new 10.2mm rope (when 10.2mm was really skinny)/ATC combo was a little slippery, and what should have been a short fall (like 6 or 8 feet) kept going. Belayer managed to get control of the rope as DFA came to a stop about a foot from the ground, smack dab between the base of the crag and a big boulder. It was a traversing move with high footholds, so the Doctor was essentially horizontal, and if the fall had been completed to the deck, would have meant landing directly on the spine and smacking the skull on the rocky ground.

 

Good thing you had your helmet on!!!

Posted

At least you'd of been able to consciously contemplate your permanent paralysis from your wheelchair, rather than to suffer obliviously as a paralyzed vegatable. See? Helmets are IMPORTANT! They keep you from dying if you should be horribly maimed. I recently stopped wearing my bike helmet for this very reason!

Posted (edited)

50 feet into a moat on shucksun, unroped. Landed on my back. Hurt my knee, crawled and walked out.

 

Fell 10' onto an icescrew that Gene Pires told me not to put in.

 

20 feet (not too far) with my 1st climb ever w/Necro about 4 years ago. Landed upsidedown on a #1 nut. Necro found his partner.

 

15' onto my back and feet friday. Broke both feet.

Edited by michael_layton
Posted
michael_layton said:

50 feet into a moat on shucksun, unroped. Landed on my back. Hurt my knee, crawled and walked out.

 

Fell 10' onto an icescrew that Gene Pires told me not to put in.

 

20 feet (not too far) with my 1st climb ever w/Necro about 4 years ago. Landed upsidedown on a #1 nut. Necro found his partner.

 

15' onto my back and feet friday. Broke both feet.

 

thumbs_up.gif Sorry about your foot.

Posted

I am not worthy to post my pathetic falls on here. I am impressed that there are any CC.comer's left. Everyone seems to have a "big one" story. All the same I'd just assume keep my personal record whipper's under 30fters. Entertaining to hear the stories though.

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