Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 There are three or four NEW fixed pins on the second pitch of Green Drag-on as of yesterday . Kinda lame, if I had brought my hammer they would have been mine.... Quote
rr666 Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 WTF??? Last I heard that has gone clean for a long time, and is relatively easy if you have a cam hook... I have taken a good look up it and there is nothing that sticks out that it needs a pin... Quote
Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 I agree, somebody either just doesn't give a shit about clean climbing, or just ignorant to the area and route their on. Â Either way, there are some nice new pins up there for anyone who wants them. Quote
glen Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Did you get rained on? Any repeats of the "Aiding on Rainier" variation? Quote
sherlock Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Does that route get good sunshine? What aspect is it? Quote
Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 No Rain, or Rainier...too much tequila in my system. Â It was sunny/cloudy and hot all day. We did get covered in Green Slime of course, and I got dripped on for two hours while Sean led pitch 4. Â BTW- Drinking a whole gallon of V8 and a beer is not recomended. Sean puked twice on the drive home... Â We also met the Upper Town Wall BASEjump squadren. Cool Guys! They had some awsome footage of jumping Mt. Baring....crazy shit! Quote
erik Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 BOGUS ON THE PINS. Â BONE...HAVE YOU FINNISHED THAT ROUTE AS OF YET?? Â Â Quote
Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 I knew you were going to chime in here... Â Yeah I finished it solo last year. Yesterday I wen't back with my partner who has been wanting to get back on it and finish it for a while. And his newbie bro who had never jugged a rope...he did wasome...it was fun. Â We skipped the last pitch cause it was wet/grungy and slimmy lookin... Â Also met dbrinka who almost lapped us climbing TC and GD...solo. Super nice guy. Quote
Jerome Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Just saw this post after writing up the climb in a different thread. We didn't do it! We climbed the route clean on Saturday. Â I remember seeing one pin on the second pitch. Â Too bad it was nailed. Â Jerome Quote
chelle Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Jerome said: Just saw this post after writing up the climb in a different thread. We didn't do it! We climbed the route clean on Saturday.  I remember seeing one pin on the second pitch.  Too bad it was nailed.  Jerome  I'll fess up to putting two of the pins in two weekends ago. Yeah it can go clean if it is dry, but the guide book says that if it's wet, people will nail on it. In one section I was already in my second steps and the next possible piece in the crack was at least 6 feet above me. Since I'm short it would've meant a dyno. I could see where you could maybe hook past it on the face, but with the slime and the fall I'd already taken I wasn't about to try it. I ended up finally bailing up a little higher but forgot to hammer out the two pins because I was pretty sketched and just wanted to get down before I puked on my belayer below because of so much adrenaline in my system. You weren't there and I don't really care what you think anyway! Flame on! Quote
chucK Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 OK, that accounts for two. I think Dan - put in the other two. Quote
mattp Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Way to go Michelle. You didn't have to come forward and admit your sin, yet you did. I'm not advocating nailing the "clean routes" at Index, but I think you have plenty of company in using pins on them when it is wet or snowing out. Quote
chelle Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Thanks Matt. It really was a last resort. I did plenty of cam hooking and even scraped at the crack with my nut tool for several minutes trying to find the next cam hook placement. We only brought them along because of the comment in the guidebook. Guess I wasn't ready for C3 in the wet conditions. When it's dry I'll try hooking through that awkward face section. Quote
Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 (edited) Peter,  Thats freakin hilarious!  ehmmic...bad girl  "In one section I was already in my second steps and the next possible piece in the crack was at least 6 feet above me."  Not to be picky, but this is absolutely not true. Your fixed Blade is 2 inches below a perfect standard cam hook placement. Cam hooks are as cheap as Knifeblades, buy one and learn to use it. Edited April 21, 2003 by Lambone Quote
erik Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 no offense michelle as we're friends. but i personally dont tread into big water during a storm, whilst unsure of my current abilites, in an effort to mitigate any possible sitmo's. Â Â Quote
Bronco Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 ehmmic said: You weren't there and I don't really care what you think anyway! Flame on! Â Good job getting out of sketchdom (I hate that place!) Â I'm looking forward to the day when I have enough experience to avoid making mistakes and can predict the future like ERIK! Â If we didn't push ourselves to climb in the first place, we'd never get off the couch, push your limits and pound your pins if the local guide book says it's ok! Quote
specialed Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 Bronco said: ehmmic said: You weren't there and I don't really care what you think anyway! Flame on! Â Good job getting out of sketchdom (I hate that place!) Â I'm looking forward to the day when I have enough experience to avoid making mistakes and can predict the future like ERIK! Â If we didn't push ourselves to climb in the first place, we'd never get off the couch, push your limits and pound your pins if the local guide book says it's ok! Quote
Lambone Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 I'm not trying to pick on ehmmic...just thinking out loud about conditions and clean climbing ethics... Â But, how much difference does the rain really make? Does water make a crack more difficult or dangerous to climb with "clean" gear? I don't think so. The holding power of a good cam, nut or cam hook, is much greater than the friction you lose due to wetness. Â Besides, that part of Green Drag-on is soaking wet all year long! So if wetness is an excuse to nail, then those pin scars are going to grow bigger and bigger each season. Quote
fern Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 pin scars get bigger from taking pins OUT and ehmmic didn't ... so there Quote
Yos Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 The pitch in question can be done clean(C2+), with or without hooks, in ANY conditions. A simple practice is to just leave the pins at home, as a solution will present itself should you run into trouble. Without the hammer you WOULD HAVE found a way to get past the difficulties clean, and your skills would have improved. Nobody needs a lecture but with the number of people spraying about the route, the number of inexperienced folks willing to give it a try will increase. Don't bring pins on GD. Â Quote
texplorer Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 I have never been on this route but I agree with Yos on this. If you don't bring pins you won't nail. Quote
glen Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 If you don't bring pins you won't nail. Â Kind of like when Doug Robinson accidentally left Galen Rowell's hammer and pins on the ground during the first clean ascent of HD (first clean ascent of any big wall for that matter)? I guess Rowell was a bit angry about that as he was on a photo shoot for NG at the time and was promising a successful wall route in photos. Quote
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