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fixed pins


Lambone

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Lambone - down boy. I didn't say or imply that it was OK to nail clean routes in the rain. I have no comment on whether she should have done something else that day because I wasn't there and I have never climbed that route. I saw that you had put somebody down as "kinda lame" and all I said was that she was not the first, nor will she be the last to use pins on that route in those conditions. I think you are taking yourself a little too seriously, my man!

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Matt,

 

Oh, I'm just having fun with this wasting time...I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just saying I disagree.

 

My first post did say "Kinda Lame", but as I said, I did not name names, she did that herself.

 

Still, I will stand by that statement. I think peole who nail pins on routes that commonly go clean are way lame.

 

Perhaps I read too far into your post, no intend to offend my friend.

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looking at the issue purely from the perspective of

krushing the rock and enlarging pin scars, hammering

them in does some damage, but hammering them out again

does a lot more. Who is the first person in this thread

to suggest going up and removing the offending pins?

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fern said:

looking at the issue purely from the perspective of

krushing the rock and enlarging pin scars, hammering

them in does some damage, but hammering them out again

does a lot more. Who is the first person in this thread

to suggest going up and removing the offending pins?

 

Fern, your statement may be logically sound, but starts with a false premise. The issue is altering the route. A fixed piton is going to alter the nature of climbing on the route much more than the scarring that results from removing the piton.

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specialed said:

Michelle, you know that pitch goes clean and that people have gotten pissed when climbers have nailed on it, come on. thumbs_down.gif

 

She might have been too busy actually climbing to have caught the most recent "pins on GD" flamefest.

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looking at the issue purely from the perspective of

krushing the rock and enlarging pin scars, hammering

them in does some damage, but hammering them out again does a lot more. Who is the first person in this thread to suggest going up and removing the offending pins?

 

Ok, well with that logic, maybe all aid routes should be just one long string of fixed pins. Like over in Europe, or on the Tripple Roof pitch of Town Crier rolleyes.gif

 

That pitch on GD (although not necesarily the main point here) would only require pin placements shoud some of the ancient rusty ones blow, and maybe not even then with the right tools for the job.

 

How about that crazy tipped knifeblade on the third pitch! Woohoo, that's maybe the most precarious looking pin I've ever been on...

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I cant't say this sends me into the pins/no pins camp; it's just a thought.

 

Consider the damage done by placing pins excluding the damage to the rock. I think many would say pitons (like bolts), reduce the value of a piece of rock as a climbing resource. A similar "damage" is more and more people visitng a location and reducing the solitude. (I'm not saying anything about the mountaineers here...) People (jusifiably) remove the pins to restore (or partially) the adventure of a climb. But this does the physical damage.

 

Now a common responce to the overcrowding thing is "people need to explore and go find a new place w/ solitude." It's intitable that more and more people will climb, and if you want soitude, you're going to have to work for it (or snipe mounties...) The solution could also be applied to the piton situation. Maybe less so than crowding, but there will be times when someone doing the right thing (or at least doing a frickin' close job) places a pin. So in order to preserve the nature of the rock, adventure seekers find a new location (and proably some solitude at that.

 

Obviously there are some serious problems with this argument when taken literally. And as I said above, I'm not saying this is a strong enough argument to justify abandoning ehtics (and crags) left and right. Just something to think about.

 

(I'd also like to come clean now as a show of good intentions. I have at times cut switchbacks, made fires where I wasn't supposed to, hacked at a tree with an axe, pissed in a stream, and sinfully wished for a bolt on a run out slab climb. I ask forgivenss. Amen)

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ehmmic said:

From Sky Valley Rock, 2000 edition

 

Green Dragon

pitch 2: The long corner is mostly clean aid. (C2/3) Like the first pitch, this is often wet early in the year. This is the one pitch that might require a couple of pins.

 

So... the_finger.gif

Well hell. The book says it's OK to wang that sucker into oblivion. Let's go ahead then.

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i was looking at t guide book this am over toast and tea.

 

where'd ya nail? the book lists the crux right below the anchors. it has been i think 3 or so years and i have never led that pitch...so i was wondering if you hammered them in the crux or further down the pitch?

 

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