Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 So what did everybody do? I went to Squamish on saturday - climbed a bunch (7 or 8) of smoke bluff type routes at the Bluffs with some friends i ran into. went to a slideshow at a friends saturday night and showed hero shots of myself etc. went home at 2 am on sunday AM and saw lots of meteors along the way. no one wanted to go up s ridge of welch sunday so I slept in sunday AM, went for a bike ride along the river, changed oil & filter in the pimp wagon, made chili. lots of chili. im going to be eating this god-damn chili all winter long I made so much of it. anybody want some chili? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 I like chili. Went looking for zekes boulder between zekes and index saturday morning. After sufficently soaked by wet brush I found several moss covered boulders that were probably not it. Continued to index to drink coffe and watch some guys aid up some drippin wet little cracks. Practiced building belay anchors in some cracks then Bouldered and scrambled around the GNS waiting to see if anyone showed up needing a gumbie who they don't know to have an epic with them. Several dogs showed up by the time I left. Some people showed up right after the dogs so I went home. Nothing worse than trying to focus on a move while low on a boulder only to have a pack of dogs run up and start sniffin your ass and lifting thier leg over your pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Went to the Coleman Icefall for the first time. Swung the new tools for a while. My lady got to try ice climbing for the first time. Met philfort, gregm, and dbb. Cool bunch of fellas. Stayed at a hotel in Bellingham...one of those romantic sort of deals. Ate lots of pasta, and got some Baker is a beautifull mountain. I can't wait to go get on that Headwall! [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 I scored a copy of the new Snoqualmie Pass ski guide on Saturday, bought a couple maps of Canuck land (also skiing related). I also watched meteors and ran up Mt. Si. When is going to fuck'n snow? [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: AlpineK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Author Share Posted November 19, 2001 Bronco, i would mail you some chili but they would probably think it was anthrax or something. sorry. i will bring some to lillooet I guess . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Found a fogless patch along I-90 to watch the meteors and froze the ol' ass to the car roof doing so. There was a car parked along the road ridiculously full of weed smoke and giggling teenagers. Got tired of not being outside and barreled up Granite Mtn. late Sunday. Got to the flat snowy spot below the talus on the ridge and turned around. On the way down, smelled something burning (it was pitch black by now) and heard cries up ahead -- it was the last two fellers I passed on the way up, with their dog. One of the guys was burning his sweatshirt as a torch, since neither of them had a light. I led them down with my light and we talked the whole way about how I "saved their asses". They gave me ten bucks so I could buy myself a beer. My potential climbing partner had a date this weekend... dammit... all my plans lately seem to get ruined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Went to the Coleman Icefall for the first time. Lambone bouldering on a very black serac: The ice was SO brittle - most difficult conditions I've seen there. We left the seracs around 2pm, and went skiing nearby. 3 or 4 inches of powder on a sometimes icy base made for quick, nice skiing. It was a cold day! Nice. Lots of waterfalls starting to freeze up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Author Share Posted November 19, 2001 $10 for two saved lives, those guys rate themselves pretty cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 A torch!!! Ohhhh man thats classic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Went to Mt. Rainier on Sunday and hiked up to Muir with my gay skis. Needed crampons for sure to get up last 1500' of the Muir "icefield". Smoked a bowl which didn't seem to bother the 2 other guys in the hut (I asked if they minded and if they wanted some). Not exactly sure if you could call it skiing, but actually made it all the way to the parking lot. They need snow baaaaaad! Still it was a beautiful day and it felt good to hike up to 10,000'. I think the mountain was very climbable this weekend although it was hard to tell how windy it was up higher. Hey Lambone, be more specific about climbing conditions on the Coleman Icefall. Were you on seracs or water ice. Was it worth the trip or did you just HAVE to swing your new tools because you were finding they didn't satisfy you in bed!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Leashless baby yeah!!Schwagadelic!!! But dude you missed the drop knee... Seemed like normal ice to me ??? It looked like those falls along the trail were about to come in if it gets any colder up there! I was suprised that any ice had formed on them. Good to meet you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 went bouldering on sunday. blue skies, lots of sun, dry granite and a big beautiful lake to look at oh, and a couple new problems and i finished a mantle problems i've been trying on and off for a while now. feel like i've been run over by a truck this morning. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Author Share Posted November 19, 2001 I guess Pan Dome Falls was nowhere close to forming up?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Weather predicted to be in the 70's this past weekend in MN...and it was!Skipped out of work on Friday to go climbing. Had a phenomenal climbing day in the sense of feeling really connected w/the rock. Not sure if there are words to describe it. Weather was gorgeous. Only people we saw were a couple kayakers pushing themselves off the cliffs a few times. Missed the sky show for good reasons - too much as I celebrated my bday and fell asleep fast and hard! Thought we might see some of it on our way back out to the crag early Sunday a.m. ...too cloudy. Climbed in the rain all day on Sunday. Attempted my first lead (trad)........Okay! So I was on toprope as well! Gotta start somewhere, ya? It was probly for the best anyway, since both of us were peeling off left and right from the rock being so wet. Heading out there on my own to practice placing pro, setting anchors, etc definately paid off, as the person i was with approved the majority of my placements. Now....if we could only get some snow and ice over yonder!!!!! Lambone-your weekend was spent at one of my fav places while visiting WA. Glad you enjoyed it! [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: carolyn ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Dru, this is getting too weird, you've been at 3 out of my last 4 climbs. We did a marathon trip to Squamish on Saturday. Four hours up and five back (including beer and barbeque in Mt Vernon). Climbed Penny Lane with wet start, couple of things at Ronin's Corner and finished up with more cracks at Octopus Garden. We thought we were the only ones there until we got back down to the Bluffs and then saw the full parking lot. Not a trip that I will repeat on a regular basis but it was worth it this time. Who expects to be climbing in the sun in November, even if the rock is a bit damp? I think the guard at the border crossing has spent too many Saturdays at Muir. When asked where we'd been, we replied Squamish, he replied, "Climbing?" I said yes and he replied, "Climbers huh? Are you farmers too?" Neither one of us were wearing our bibs or straw hats. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Author Share Posted November 19, 2001 Terry going by the forecasts this is gonna be a winter with dry, sunny days every month of the year. 15C and sunny in January etc. I was down at Burgs & Fries. Some friends just bought a house in the Smoke Bluffs and I was doing all the routes that end up in their back yard which border crossing was the farmers comment made at? sounds like something you might hear at Sumas. The guy there on the US side really dug my Boreal sticker once :"Think Less... Climb More? huh? The Original And Sticky?" How wet was Octopus garden? That things usually soaked for 2 days after rain. You should check out Funarama if you are over there. "Ramapithecus" (see yellow guidebook update) dries out fast and the pro is "bomber". And you can try to snag the FFA of "Working Class" (not in book - goes left out of First Class) - the move past the bolt is probably about 1-move-wonder 11b. [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 I um, saw Harry Potter. The movie is actually quite cool. I'm glad there was some hospitable weather out there for you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Well it's not PNW, nut... Went to Rocky Mountain National Park's Glacier Gorge... Awesome. THe sky was clear, the sun blazing, and everything was covered with a light dusting of dry snow. My partner and I climbed "Black Lake West Gully" (original, huh? all the route around here are names stupid things like "West Face Variation 2" or " Northwest Arete Direct"...) Anyways, four 160' pitches of WI 3-4. The ice was a bit wet, and we listened to free hanging 'cicles dropping from sunny walls for the first part of the day... luckly the gully sits in the shade most of the day and was in acceptable form. Side note: While on the climb, both mt partner and I was the most CRAZY jet-con-trail type thing. Imagine a jet contrail. Now instead of seeing a single line flowing from behind the jet, you see a row of concentric "smoke rings" and no "straight contrail. So it was this line of concentric smoke rings in the middle of the sky going from horizon to horizon (granted, our view was obstructed by the lip of the gully, but we could see at least 2 dozen of these rings... CRAZY! No drugs! Honest! Anywasy, we finished up the climb and hiked out, getting back to the car in a solid darkness. What a way to finish an awesome day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Oh yeah. If you want to check out a lame-ass web site for Boulder area climbing... http://www.climbingboulder.com/ and tomorrow's objective: http://www.climbingboulder.com/ice/db/rocky_mountain_national_park/glacier_gorge/all_mixed_up.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 quote: Hey Lambone, be more specific about climbing conditions on the Coleman Icefall. Were you on seracs or water ice. It would definitely be worth it if you're itiching to swing your tools, the road is drivable to the TH, and you don't need anything but shoes (and ski poles) to walk in. But like phil said, the ice was really brittle, and the 3-4" of snow that covered things made walking around a bit dicey. You never quite knew if the floor was solid ice or holes. Though once you find a safe area, wipe off the snow, and pick off the buldges, it is quite nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Dru, border crossing was Aldergrove. Other than the stupid questions it was a quicker crossing than pre-WTC. Most of the cracks were moist or had water running in them but the faces were dry. My first trip to Squamish with one of the other CascadeClimbers was spent climbing in the rain about 13 yrs ago. We did Diedre with a small river running down the crack. Neither of us can read real well and spent an hour or so trying to climb the headwall at the end of the climb, not realizing we were done. Actually, I think that was all Walter's fault. Of course there were no other idiots up there climbing in the rain. I think we wandered by Funorama on Saturday. I thought I knew where everthing was and had my old yellow guidebook. Now I realize that the MacLane 1992 guidebook is also pretty outdated. I guess I'll have to buy another one to keep up with the changes up there. I also need to add Doo-ood to my vocabulary, based on the conversations I had with the two guys we saw. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 I left the car at 2:00pm on Saturday and headed up a peak renamed after my daughter. I summited in the dark just in time to see the crescent moon set between the cloud layer & the mountains on the horizon. I then built my first snow cave. Well, sort of...there was only about 2 ft of snow so I used a space blanket for a roof. I built a fire, ate ramen & drank Knob Creek (yes, I have my priorities right). Then I settled in my new sleeping bag, for the light show. The clouds cleared and the fireworks were spectacular! [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Author Share Posted November 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Terry: Dru, border crossing was Aldergrove. Other than the stupid questions it was a quicker crossing than pre-WTC. Most of the cracks were moist or had water running in them but the faces were dry. My first trip to Squamish with one of the other CascadeClimbers was spent climbing in the rain about 13 yrs ago. We did Diedre with a small river running down the crack. Neither of us can read real well and spent an hour or so trying to climb the headwall at the end of the climb, not realizing we were done. Actually, I think that was all Walter's fault. Of course there were no other idiots up there climbing in the rain. I think we wandered by Funorama on Saturday. I thought I knew where everthing was and had my old yellow guidebook. Now I realize that the MacLane 1992 guidebook is also pretty outdated. I guess I'll have to buy another one to keep up with the changes up there. I also need to add Doo-ood to my vocabulary, based on the conversations I had with the two guys we saw. Terry Make sure you buy the one that says "2001 Update" with a yellow spine and 140 new route supplement on yellow paper at the back, it costs the same as the 99 edition, but it has my name in it about 6 more times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 20, 2001 Share Posted November 20, 2001 Headed up the North side of Hood to try to climb the Elliot Glacier Headwall with a fellow CCer, Mr. Xenolith. In short, it was very dark, lots of spindrifty snow flying about, and actually pretty cold. After my partner turned around I thought I might try to go up the Sunshine route. While crossing a crevass I set off a small snow slide. Having moving snow under your feet and hearing that noise is not something you want to hear while crossing a crevass. After that I headed down and went to Smith the next day to solo a few pitches up the west face variation of monkey face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 20, 2001 Share Posted November 20, 2001 by chance did princess zena, talk incoherently about the cia wanting to get him?? hugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.