Dustin_B Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Has anyone done this route this time of year (i.e. just after Hwy 20 opens; I'm optimistic it will open soon)? How much snow/ice is typically on this route? Guesses for this year? What kind of pro; just rock pro or screws too? I know this is an easy rock climb in the summer; do you think there would be much mixed climbing this time of year? I haven't done much mixed climbing (well, none actually); is this a good first climb? Thanks for the help. --Dustin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 DUSTIN ALL THINGS CONSIDERED THIS IS AN EXCELLENT BEGINNER ALPINE CLIMB. THERE IS VERY LITTLE ROCK CLIMBING. MIGHT BE AT THE CHOCKSTONE IN LOW SNOW CONDITIONS AND THERE IS A LITTLE BIT EXITING THE COULIOR. Â MAYBE A SCREW OR TWO. A PPICKET FOR POSSIBLE SOFT SNOW. AND SOME STOPPERS SHOULD GET YOU THROUGH. Â PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD. Â ACTUAL IN THE SUMMER IT IS A CHOSS GULLY, THE SW ARETE TO THE RIGHT OF THE COULIOR IS A SUPER FUN JAUNT. IT IS ALSO THE DECENT ROUTE. Â MIGHT WANT TO BRING A FEW EXTRA TIED SHOULDER LENGTH AND PERFOM EARLY SEASON ANCHOR MAINTENENCE! Â HAVE FUN! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 and a crow-bar for the chicken bolt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 (edited) I have climbed this route in May and June, and actually never encountered ice, per se -- but have encountered lots of firm (and some fluffy) snow. I'm sure ice is possible, but I just haven't encountered it. I'm curious who has seen ice on this route, and at what time of year. Â Both times I climbed it, the chockstone was buried in snow, and not even visible. We walked right over it. Â I would say the actual crux is climbing the snowy rocks (quite easy when dry, but slick when wet/snowy) exiting the couloir and attaining the summit area. Â Beware the very corniced snowpatch overhanging the East Face at the very top of the couloir!!! I've seen footprints leading out onto it before . . . Â This is a great climb in an awesome position. Approaching via the hairpin (rather than slogging up the blue lake trail) early in the morning gives good firm snow to hike up on and a great glissade back to the car . . . Mo Fastah mo bettah! Â See attached image of route if you like. Â Have fun, Â Steve Edited March 26, 2003 by goatboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Does anyone know if they have started to plow the road yet? Any beta on the road is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcracken Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Rodchester said: Does anyone know if they have started to plow the road yet? Any beta on the road is appreciated. Yep started working on Hwy. 20. Hwy 20 Status  -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 I'm sure ice is possible, but I just haven't encountered it. I'm curious who has seen ice on this route, and at what time of year. I did the route the day the road opened in 98 (early April). It was in the 20's and there was a short stretch of water ice (50') high on the route where it bottle necks down. The rest of it was good "styrofoam". An outstanding outing in these conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted March 26, 2003 Author Share Posted March 26, 2003 Thanks for the info. Sounds like just an ice axe (for the approach) would suffice if we run into any short stretch of ice on route. It doesn't sound like there is any need to bring a second tool, or is there? How steep does the "firm snow" get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 I did this route in April 1994 as a snow climb. If you go right after the hiway opens you'll encounter no difficulties. a single axe and crampons should get you through - though there is a spot where the snow gets pretty thin and you might have to scratch up some lower angled rock. Â Here is a pic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Even more fun if you take you skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Test post  SEWS from Kangaroo Temple (August).  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Dustin_B said: Thanks for the info. Sounds like just an ice axe (for the approach) would suffice if we run into any short stretch of ice on route. It doesn't sound like there is any need to bring a second tool, or is there? How steep does the "firm snow" get? Â Mostly 30-degrees, steepest part is in the 40-45 degree range as I recall -- the route starts off steep, then kicks back in the middle above the chockstone, then steepens again through the upper part where it narrows. The upper part of the route is the most aesthetic part. Â Yes, I'd think one axe would do fine for many folks, thought I've seen people use two tools for this route. I'd take one. Â Hope you have a good trip and post a trip report. Â Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 The WSDOT website has been updated as of this morning (3/27): N Cascades Clearing Activity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 So do you think I the crews would care if you rode a bike up the portion of the road they have already cleared? I guess on the weekends they aren't even there. It seems to me it would fall under the same guidance as in the winter; you are on your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 13, 2003 Share Posted April 13, 2003 from the DOT: Â "Washington Pass" "North Cascades Highway" Eastside Progress Week of April 10, 2003 North Central Region, Maintenance Area 3 The North Cascades Highway is scheduled to reopen at 11:00 AM on Monday, April 14th barring unforeseen weather. The highway clearing operation has been completed. There may be intermittent closures over the next few weeks based on weather conditions. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 It was in great shape today Our 3 person team and another party of 2 that went up as we came down were the only ones up there. Many snowboarders and skiers though. The skiing was not that great though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLC Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 Did you rope up? I was thinking of soloing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 scot'teryx said: It was in great shape today Our 3 person team and another party of 2 that went up as we came down were the only ones up there. Many snowboarders and skiers though. The skiing was not that great though..... Â Excellent, thanks for the info. I'll be soloing it Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiplash Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 I was in the party of two that went up today, we didn't rope up, and it didn't look like the other party of three did either. We down climbed the south arete to spice it up a bit. It would be a fine solo now. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 PLC said: Did you rope up? I was thinking of soloing... Â We did not rope up..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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