richard_noggin Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 My partner won't adhere to my staunch sport climbing ethics. Were hanging at the local crag , start with a warm up on a 5.8 he does his usual elvis leg( the dude so old he farts dust) than we go to 10-b to get the flash pump over with( it really pisses me off that a weak old dude can style a climb better than me) than we send a couple more classic 10's and move to the prod of the day . Gramps takes the first lead on the 11-B , at the 4th bolt the oldsteer takes a fall than yells dirt me dude, he than unties and pulls the rope and reties in and climbs on it again and sends . The problem i have with this is he left the first 4 draws on , so I tell the old phuk that it was a pink point. He sayes that's just as good . Old or not I just can't let him get away with not adhereing to my staunch sport climbing ethics. Are you sprayers going to back me up or what???? Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Are you serious, or is this a pathetic attempt at humor? (haha.) Pink-point/red-point, it's all the same. On some routes, bolt-placement is done with pre-hung draw in mind. Quote
Greg_W Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Having just returned from Smith Rocks, home of stick clips and other weird shit, I can't really see how the words 'sport climbing' and 'ethics' can go next to each other in a sentence. Quote
iain Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 what did you climb? moonshine d? tremens? etc? Quote
texplorer Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 I climbed Sniffle Tower and almost took a 100fter when a hold broke on the last 4th class pitch. Overall a pretty shitty climb, save the 5th pitch. Outstanding view from the top however. I guess we got the pinkpoint though cause on the last tiny aid bolt someone had left some spectra cord and a biner and I used both. I am such a wanker. Quote
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Snibble Tower? No way what next? Smith Summit East Face? Vulture Ridge?? Was Muffy with you guys or not.? I want a full Tufftuff TR! Quote
salbrecher Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Ethics shmesics, people are so touchy . Can't wait to see what people say when I'm pounding the shit out of some free routes Quote
TimL Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 (edited) I have an old school budy who whips off of 12's, pulls the rope then sends. Bruce is bad ass! Edited March 11, 2003 by TimL Quote
RuMR Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 (edited) Tim, You on for Thursday w/ Frank and Ropegun???? Edited March 11, 2003 by RuMR Quote
richard_noggin Posted March 12, 2003 Author Posted March 12, 2003 I throw out a perfictly good troll , I mean sport climbing and ethics in the same sentance and this is all i get from cc cyber nerds this site is really getting boreing and the spray is getting lame This is what happens when you moderate the shit out of free speach And what up with sexual butt nuget ? It can't be the same sprayer that first used that avatar. If your going to trade avatars you have to keep the character going. Quote
Off_White Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 Nice of you to drop by, we've missed you too Richard. I thought this all got hashed out months ago when it became apparent that sportos consider leading a route with pre-placed draws a red point. Whatever. Do you want your monniker changed to "Retro Trad Post-Modern Sport Climber" ? Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 richard_noggin said: And what up with sexual butt nuget ? It can't be the same sprayer that first used that avatar. If your going to trade avatars you have to keep the character going. Estoy confudado, senor. Ayudame, por favor. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 No necesitas ayada, necesitas una cabaza que no tiene rocas in it. Como se dice the last part of that en Espanol correcto? Quote
texplorer Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 friends, cc.comers,tradmen, Lend me your gear, I come bury sport climbing not to praise it, The bolting men do lives after them, their good is often only in the gym So let it be with sportos For they are all, all honorable men Quote
iain Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 texplorer said: friends, cc.comers,tradmen, Lend me your gear, I come bury sport climbing not to praise it, The bolting men do lives after them, their good is often only in the gym So let it be with sportos For they are all, all honorable men stupid liberal arts students... Quote
forrest_m Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: No necesitas ayada, necesitas una cabaza que no tiene rocas in it. Como se dice the last part of that en Espanol correcto? "necesitas una cabeza que no tiene rocas dento" but it would be even better to say something like "necesitas no ser tan gilipollas" (such a stupid jerk) Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 Gracias, mi amigo. Una cerveza para ti! Quote
plexus Posted March 12, 2003 Posted March 12, 2003 forrest_m said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: No necesitas ayada, necesitas una cabaza que no tiene rocas in it. Como se dice the last part of that en Espanol correcto? "necesitas una cabeza que no tiene rocas dento" but it would be even better to say something like "necesitas no ser tan gilipollas" (such a stupid jerk) o necesitas no ser un pinche gavacho! I miss the keyboards in Mexico with the upside down question marks and exclaimation marks. It's in the 90s and sunny in Oaxaca. Why did I ever come back?! Quote
richard_noggin Posted March 13, 2003 Author Posted March 13, 2003 Off_White said: Nice of you to drop by, we've missed you too Richard. I thought this all got hashed out months ago when it became apparent that sportos consider leading a route with pre-placed draws a red point. Whatever. Do you want your monniker changed to "Retro Trad Post-Modern Sport Climber" ? Hey Off wit( getting a little full of yourself arn't you) this site is getting really boring just trying to stir up conversation Some Sportos may consider pre placed draws a red point but the ones like me who plug as much gear as draws don't, just like we don't consider a trad lead that all the gear is not placed on lead a redpoint or first ascent Missed you too Off Wit If I have made your blood hot at least I have rizen someone from the dead on this site . Even Trask acts like he is on double secret probation. I am a working stiff again, you know blue collar , real work, up at 5 , blood and sweat for you money spray at you tomorrow Quote
richard_noggin Posted March 14, 2003 Author Posted March 14, 2003 Something poped into my head while slaveing away in the coal mine today. If preplaceing gear is acceptiable than i could get First ascents on sick hard cracks. Now pink is pink and red is red but maybe I would be willing to bend the rules a bit. In the past i have been a 5.10 crack climber but with these new rules I could be a sick hard 5.11 crack climber . So all you rock cop ethics judges better speak up or I will dawn a pair of spandex, rap, clean, preplace gear, sportcrack sent it and call them First ascents. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Say, has anyone seen anything interesting going on in this thread? No? Yeah, thought so. OK, then! Quote
RuMR Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 (edited) richard_noggin said: Something poped into my head while slaveing away in the coal mine today. If preplaceing gear is acceptiable than i could get First ascents on sick hard cracks. Now pink is pink and red is red but maybe I would be willing to bend the rules a bit. In the past i have been a 5.10 crack climber but with these new rules I could be a sick hard 5.11 crack climber . So all you rock cop ethics judges better speak up or I will dawn a pair of spandex, rap, clean, preplace gear, sportcrack sent it and call them First ascents. Ummm..."Sick hard 5.11 crack climber" doesn't go together unless you happen to be ill w/ the flu, reading a penthouse and then start climbing... I'm not sure what the definition of "sick, hard" crack climbing is, but i don't think 5.11 is in it...maybe its relative though... Edited March 14, 2003 by RuMR Quote
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