summitseeker Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Spent Sunday at Leavenworth and cranked a bunch of routes. Arrived early in the morning and started up R&D just as the rain began to fall. It was slick as a badger's ass on the last pitch, but it was a kick in the pants. Only saw one other group of climbers the whole day! The climbs at the mouth of the "canyon" were reasonably dry until late in the afternoon, so we had a few good bouts of TR as well. What did everyone else do? [This message has been edited by summitseeker (edited 10-23-2001).] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Little Si and then Dirt Slingin' Mike O. and I did the then slimy hand crack Mambo Jambo. Then we met Bruce over at WWall to get punked (round 3 for me arg!) on some overhang route I could barely hang on to. Lots of hanging on bolts and long belay sessions with Gri Gri device in order. After 1 session on his warmup I was done. Bruce made it to the chains on Technorigine. Sunday I shoveled dirt all day and went to a slide show. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-22-2001).] Quote
Dru Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 soloed davy jones' locker with a pack fulla gear and mtn masters on for training. then went hiking, more training. then went to housewarming and hot tub, not for training. Quote
rr666 Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Â Hit Little Si yesterday and played in the Rain!! Belaying was miserable, but had a good time on Aborigine, the one to the left of it, and hung and pulled up on the draws quite a bit working my way up Chronic... Boy that one is tough, got a long way to go before i can even think about getting that one clean.. But thankfully the cliff overhangs enough that the rock was nice and dry, just an occasional slimy hold. Quote
James Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 West Ridge of Prusik on saturday. Cavey, too bad you couldn't join us. My partners did Cannon and Enchantment on Sunday while I had a look around the area. It was so windy sunday that there were whitecaps on Colchuck Lake. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Trust me James, If I could have made it I would have gone. White Caps on Colchuck Lake sounds interesting. Quote
todd Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 testing...testing, 123 (sorry, just seeing if im able to log in yet) Quote
plexus Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Saturday went to Mount Erie for some TR. OK climbing because battled numb fingers and toes syndrome. Rock was mostly dry but some wet spots to avoid. Saw two other parties that day, it's strange to see the Upper Wall open on a weekend. Usually avoid that like the plague and hit the other crags up there. Quote
chucK Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 Went and climbed the Tooth in the warm sunshine. Nobody was around. I do think I spotted ScottP up dancing naked on Chair though. Glad I didn't have my binocs. Chuck Quote
ScottP Posted October 22, 2001 Posted October 22, 2001 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Went and climbed the Tooth in the warm sunshine. Nobody was around. I do think I spotted ScottP up dancing naked on Chair though. Glad I didn't have my binocs. Chuck It would have been a truly ugly site, indeed. (I almost shit my pants climbing over a wet streak on the NE Butt once. If it hadn't been for some stout branches, I would have been nothing but a grease stain down the East face.) Â Quote
Ade Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 Perfect weather in the Gunks, NY. Lots of routes... steep... Quote
Uncle_Tricky Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 Well I guess this was last week instead of the weekend, but for me, the weekdays are my weekend. Had a few short days down in CA. Tuolomne: NW Books .9 variation on Lembert, West Crack on Daff dome, Alimony Cracks, SE butt Cathedral peak. Yosemite: Point Beyond on the Apron and Committment. Got lost/nearly stuck in the sand dunes and washes of Black Rock desert with no water on our way back. Also got lost in the dark and nearly ran out of gas on the hundreds of miles of unsigned dirt roads in NW Nevada and SE Oregon. Saw one car in 230 miles. When we finally arrived at a town, (McDermitt) it was 70 miles away from the town we thought we were arriving at (Denio). Found some incredible hot springs along the way though. Of course it started pouring rain as soon as we crossed Snocrummie Pass on the way home. [This message has been edited by Uncle Tricky (edited 10-22-2001).] Quote
jordo Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 Uncle Tricky, I hate your ass; the last thing I need to be dreaming about right now is the Valley! Must have been sweet. Is that belay on the Committment still really scary. Two years ago it was one 1/4" spinning sheet metal hanger and it scared the shit out of me! I backed it up with one small nut and it still scared me. Instead of a sunny California filled with cracks, I found Squampton very busy for an iffy Saturday in October. I hadn't been to the Smoke Bluffs in a really long time 'cause its always so crowded. It still is. Rubbed about $10 worth of chalk into Crime and Punishment to dry it off, still fun. Finally worked up the confidence to do Power Windows -- pretty nice climb. Seasoned in the Sun is so nice, but we dodged some nice meteors coming off that choss to the left of the U wall. Pretty scary when the whole climb is pock marked from falling rock over the last year. Quote
carolyn Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 I LOVe reading these posts of what people climbed over the weekend (thank you to those who start it and participate in it). Makes me jealous! Here in MN, I spent a night climbing in the gym for the first time since my elbow injury. Made it thru a half dozen climbs before it started hurting again...a couple more and I was done in. Lugged around and spread woodchips in various areas of the ropes course where I work on Sat. Some hammering nails on platforms and chopping wood. Can we say SORE arms!*sigh* I figure its good to get paid to get in shape for the ice though Took a friend to an ice climbing clinic at a local gear shop later that eve (they have one of those styrofoam pinnicles). Since it was a women's clinic, I met a few potential women partners for the winter.(strangely enough I have never met a woman who ice climbs here in MN) Sunday was WARM here...60's. I went out to a local crag and practiced setting up topropes, anchors, and placing gear. Got some bouldering in...and after dropping my trekking poles, wound up having to free climb a rock about 100 ft up from the water in order to reach a spot where I could go down and retrieve them (after leaving a pair on mt.baker during my visit, I wasnt about to lose another pair!). Might be "nothing" to people who are out climbing all the time. But to me it was pretty nervewracking. It was definately a good learning weekend for me! Quote
gapertimmy Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 jon, myself, and the ambiguously gaping trio (heh chaser ) spent the weekend at a rather crowded smith. did the backside (spiderman and some others) on saturday, and front on monday. my little lady hoped on her first rock climb ever and did 5 gallon bucketz, i was so impressed.... i have a rope gun in the making! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Ade: Perfect weather in the Gunks, NY. Lots of routes... steep... Yo Adrian, When I read this I think Ice! You are ice seeker I know it! What did you do?! Quote
Wallstein Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 I made it out to Index on Saturday and did a little craggin at the lower wall. We did the standards, Godzilla, thin fingers and Iron horse. The one non standard route I tried was Frog Pond. The first two bolts go at 12c, which of course I aided through. Standing on the top bolt I could just barely reach into the start of the crack. It was only suppose to be 10c but I thought the move was way harder. It does eventually turn into locker fingers to thin hans and then traverses underneath a cool roof. The route was filled with cobwebs and dirt but it was definately a classic in my book. Anyone else out there been on frog pond? Quote
offwidthclimber Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 as *silly* as it may be to some people here , a couple friends and i met up and hauled our crash pads all of 10 minutes to tubbs hill on the shore of beautiful coeur d'alene lake. chalk pots and all, we managed to scrub and work a few new lines ranging from crimpin' to dynamic sloper slappin'. did some great dyno problems and had a load of fun. on another note, it is now raining about as hard as i've ever seen it - with lightning, so, beer in hand, i'm outside to check it out... later. Quote
miker Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 Drove to Smith for the first time ever this weekend, hooked up with a partner through a connection here in CC.com. She then showed me around Morning Glory Wall, excellent buckets into thin Smithlike holds. Then over asterisk pass to the backside and a fun 5.7 up to a 5.10b and then the 5.11a which she made look easy and I flailed up, did all the moves, but a couple of hangs to rest. Then a trad 5.8 and then back around to the Dihedrals for me to lead Wedding Day, 5.10b, which I finished with a little whimpering. Sunday more fun after a long hike out to the Marsupials. A fun 5.9 on the front of Koala rock, Suck My Kiss. Then Ryan's Arete which is a really awkward 5.10c Julie worked for a while before finishing. Then up the same wall a little to a 5.11a, which was fun although the rock at the crux was a little scary. And the final climb of the day a long fun 5.9/10a lead up the Mudslide Wall which was an excellent finish, with fun knobs making the super long pitch extremely fun, almost froze in the wind over the top as I belayed. A few drops of rain hit us as we packed up, but the coolness of the day kept the crowds down and let us stick to the rock. I gotta go back there soon. Miker Quote
summitseeker Posted October 23, 2001 Author Posted October 23, 2001 Carolyn from MN: Ever been to the Palisades? Some awesome rock climbing right above Lake Superior. Rapp in, climb out type stuff. Check it out sometime, if you haven't already. Quote
carolyn Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 summitseeker, yes, I have BEEN there, but never climbed. It is AMAZING and cant wait until I actually have the chance to climb there instead of just watch other people climb (well its actually hard to WATCH unless you are really brave to peer over the edge while not tied into something ). Â Still working on building up my resources...equipment, climbing partners, skills, etc. Â The entire climbing area is actually closed right now due to a large rockfall which took place last week. Havent heard of any accidents taking place due to it, thank goodness. Patience is a virtue so they say...*sigh* Spent a lot of time backpacking up there on the Superior Hiking Trail this summer. Ever been? , carolyn [This message has been edited by carolyn (edited 10-23-2001).] Quote
willstrickland Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 I might as well be mikereddig: Hooked up with a CCer, went to Smith. Decided to clip'em the first day and climb gear routes the second day as we'd never climbed together before. He was a bit of Smith regular so I sat back for the tour. Barbeque the Pope, then over the pass for Screaming Yellow Zonkers and Moons of Pluto, back around for a flail on Heinous Cling, and some other easy line on chossy huecos. Tons and tons of people, like a freaking amusement park. Strange (for me) climbing style...all pockets and pebbles. Hit Redmond for some mexi-grub and back to the grasslands getting psyched for the basalt gear routes. Maybe it was the food, maybe the nearness of so many bolts, maybe my karma out of line with the area, but I paid a hell of a price. All night saturday into sunday morning I alternated between laying in my bag trying not to puke and hiking around the campground loop to the latrine hoping to puke away from our site. After about six intervals of sleep 10 minutes, wake-up, roll out of the bivi-sack, put on a coat and shoes, walk for 30 minutes, crap, puke, walk back...it was daylight. One more hurl for old-times sake right next to my bag and the sun was fully up. Spent the day laying in the car at a Wal-Mart eating pepto-chewables like candy while partner hooked up with some friends to get in some routes. He was gracious enough to offer to let me just drive his car back to Portland and catch a ride with friends, but I didn't want my probs to put someone else out so I declined and just drove it over to somewhere (Wally-mart) with drugs, toilets, and a hassle free parking area. Worked out well, although I was still down for the count on Monday. Eventful weekend no doubt. Quote
Dru Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 will was it montezumas from the dinner or the central oregon water that did you in?? or the altitude ?? Quote
willstrickland Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 Two words: Mi Poblita and two more: food poisoning Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted October 23, 2001 Posted October 23, 2001 I did some little nerve damage thing in my neck last week (stupid human tricks) and my arm is 1/2 numb. I felt my knees needed a break from the last two weekends. So, I thought I would take it easy and I went out to do this local 5.8ish 2 pitch climb with this 65 year old Tai Kwan Do instructor friend of mine who has just climbed in gyms a bit. I have never ever seen any newbie so smooth and clear headed on rock 200ft above the deck. He had a bit of technical difficulty on some of the moves, but totally kept it together in his head. We rappeled the route (I belayed his first 50 ft.) and when I said to just lean back, arch his back and keep pressure on his feet, he did. I was amazed and had a good time. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.