summitseeker

Pics have been added to the TR.

Yes. It appears to span the face but isn't that wide -- some air on the descent and you can cross it. Casey and Lars skied that line. Not sure how it would be on the ascent -- might be a way across -- didn't look that closely.

Trip: NCNP - Forbidden Tour and Buckner North Face Date: 5/11/2007 Trip Report: Great ski tour around Forbidden Peak and a fun ski descent of Mount Buckner's north face. TR is here. Gear Notes: Enough rope(s) for 15-20m rapp off Sharkfin Col. Approach Notes: Cascade River Road gated at Eldorado TH. (Will be for season, due to washouts). Walked road to Boston Basin TH, exited at Eldorado TH.

Climb: Azurite Peak-South Route Date of Climb: 10/21/2006 Trip Report: Like many, took advantage of the great weather window. Trip report is here. Gear Notes: Helmet -- lots of loose crap in the gully. Approach Notes: West Fork Methow River Trail, near Mazama.

Climb: Mount Ballard Alternate Route Exploration-from Azurite Pass Date of Climb: 9/23/2006 Trip Report: Some beautiful, rarely visited country seen on this trip despite not making the summit. Trip report is here. --Scott Gear Notes: Trekking poles, lots and lots of patience for the infinite talus. Approach Notes: West Fork Methow River Trail, near Mazama.

Climb: Luahna Peak and Buck Mountain-Pilz Glacier & NW Ridge / Southwest Slopes Date of Climb: 8/27/2006 Trip Report: Had a wonderful climbing outing in the wild and remote Napeequa Valley. For those interested, the trip report is here. --Scott Gear Notes: 30m rope, ice axe, crampons, helmet, minimal glacier rig Approach Notes: Little Giant Pass Trail, Napeequa River Trail. Camp at Louis Creek. Cross-country thereafter.

I got Lyme Disease last summer after a trip to Wisconsin to visit my family -- ground zero for it. It was nasty, nasty. Fortunately, I had the characteristic bullseye rash and an unexplained high fever. 21 days on Tetracycline kicked it, but left me wiped out and stripped of any good bacteria. I was pretty weak for the first week on the drugs. Walking to the microwave was hard. Still managed to climb the Spectacle buttes though by taking four days -- I felt like a pathetic old man. Catch it early is the mantra. The 2nd and 3rd stages are way nasty. --Scott

Cool Jeff! Thanks for the TR and the great pics. I posted a link to it from my website. --Scott

Cool! Congrats. That makes my list every year, but just hasn't happened yet for some reason. Next year, I swear. For future reference, cross the slide and regain the road on the opposite side, then go another 50-100 yards on it before heading directly uphill. Going this way allows access to a brush and deadfall free ridge that makes for pretty easy going, although it is seriously steep in spots. It's easier than the ridge you went up which is covered with toothpicks, as you said. It also tops you out right next to the entry point for the north summit's north face couloir. Anyway, that's the right way to get a tan. Skiing, exercise, fresh air and bronzin' up... no better combination I figure. --Scott

First off, cool climb! Congrats. I'd agree with Mark and say don't ascend the Cascadian for the approach. To add, you can just take the climber's trail used for the 'standard' (southeast route) on Stuart to 5,800 ft, then climb over a rib to the right and contour into the basin beneath Sherpa. Continue up to the Stuart-Sherpa col, staying left of a waterfall and cliff band. There is a big, flat rock in the upper basin (7,400 ft) that makes a great bivi site, but water can be scarce later in the season. More in my guidebook of course. --Scott

Man, that looks sweet. I missed this original posting. I gotta learn how to aid climb...

Thanks Otto! It is some beautiful country and definitely felt wild and remote.

Climb: Reynolds Peak-Southeast Slopes Date of Climb: 7/8/2006 Trip Report: I'm sure everyone will be lining up to read this TR, given that less than 6 parties a year summit this mountain. It's a fun route finding challenge though to the top of a very recognizable and prominent peak, so who knows, maybe its popularity will rise. Trip report is here. Gear Notes: No ice axe or crampons needed anymore -- completely melted out. Approach Notes: Reynolds Creek Trail off Twisp River Road.

Nice! Congrats. Yes, the class 4 scramble to the right of the hanging snow block is a bit sketchy, particularly at the top where there are few handholds. There's a picture of mean downclimbing it in my Formidable TR on July 1st. That's cool the snowfinger was a good bypass... I was looking at that on the way out. Wonder what that is like once it melts out? --Scott

That's very cool. Which way did you come down from Sinister? Northwest Face? West Ridge? Could you describe it in terms of terrain (snow, rock, etc.). What did you rapp?

thanks letsroll! that's the info i was looking for. congrats on the north face -- sweet!

awesome guys! great tr, great pics.

Cool Tom. Thanks a lot! --Scott

Yes, sorry, I should have been more specific. I do know that about the Chikamin. Just more interested in your impressions about the relative state of it, particularly for an eastward traverse to get over to Sinister from the col. No worries though -- I'll just head up there and have a look.

Sweet. Nice TR. Congrats. Do you happen to remember what the Chikamin Glacier north and east of the summit looked like? Were there a lot of crevasses visible in it or was it pretty much a snowfield?

Very cool. Great TR! Questions: 1) Crevasses easily avoided by solo traveler? 2) Class 3 max, right? 3) Did you drink the Klenke TR kool-aid? e.g., "buffet of brushy travel". That sounds like Paul.

Added more pics from Julian of Red Ledge, the Middle Cascade Glacier, and the arcing couloir. It is tremendous country. If you haven't gone there before, go this weekend.

sweet! great pics. i've never heard of a goat being all the way up on the summit though. but then, since you had the entire west ridge to yourselves i suppose anything is possible.

I added a photo with route overlay.

1 night. Rough times are 6-8 hours from car to camp at the S-F col. 4 hours from camp to summit. 2+ hours from summit back to camp; 4-5 hours S-F col to car. Another option (as in my guide) is to camp at Kool Aid Lake instead and do most of it as a day trip. This works well if Formidable is your only objective, but it's also a long day. Day 2 is long no matter what though (unless you do 2 nights). --Scott