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Posted

So you're a climber?

 

This chart was designed to help students understand the many different sports within the climbing world. I like to compare climbing to track and field. It too has many completely different and unique sports within its parameters to enjoy. It has gone from the early decathlon to the highly specialized sports we see today. The changes in climbing historically have been chronicled well in magazines like these. Who would have thought we would see people being guide up Everest like it was a tourist attraction. After doing the Nose of El Cap myself in three days, I am stunned to see the new speed records shattered continuously. Who knows what this chart will be like in the next 50 years?

A part of me wants to rub in the fact that the majority of the Climbing Population is only participating in one or two specific boxes. It is a shame most are missing out on all the wonderful aspects of the broader scale the sport has to offer. It seems most of the people I know however are branching out into other boxes as their finances and experience allows.

I have enjoyed nearly all of theses sub-sports immensely over the last 25+ years. I think there is enough there to keep anybody interested and busy year round. Perhaps the only downside is all the money one has to spend to participate safely on a broad scope. All I know is I have my favorites and maybe I will see you this weekend on the next adventure!

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=304&papass=&sort=1&thecat=503

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Posted

Hey, that's pretty cool Wayne. A lot of it makes sense, but the Peak Bagging box should not be relegated to snow climbing. Alpine climbing also sees a lot of peak bagging mentality. I should know, I'm a peak bagger. Then there's wall bagging and serac bagging (while the serac lasts) and climber's wall route bagging and so on...

Posted

That chart got me to thinking about the sports section in USA today. They started a 10 day series today with the top 10 hardest sports. Today (#10) was downhill skiing like the 80 mph kind. I wonder if anything on that chart will pop up in the next 10 days? Good job Wayne.

Posted

Very well done Wayne. I have a few questions though to help me better understand it all.

 

Why is mixed climbing the "purest form" of ice climbing? I understand that free soloing is the purest form of rock climbing. It seems like free soloing leashless on waterfall *or* mixed would be the purest form of ice climbing. Where would a route like liberty ridge fall in? It is kind of snow climbing, kind or ice climbing, and I would consider it alpine. I'm guessing light and fast alpine ascents of big mountains (single push expeditions) would that fall under "super alpine" even if there is more than 1 person? It seems like First Ascents might be a catagory too, but it could fall under many of the existing catagories. I'm not critizing at all, just trying to understand it all. Your diagram will be helpful when trying to explain climbing to non-climbing friends/family. grin.gifrockband.gif

Posted
So you're a climber?

 

I'm a cragger. Was mountaineering created in a big bang? An immaculate conception? A lizard jumping off a bush?

 

Forget your students. Add sticky rubber, Friends, beta, Messner, etc., and get yourself a script writer and start doing story boards. Make the world understand climbing.

Posted

Ok , I am of course biased. Maybe to some , ski descents are the purest form? Maybe for Trask, The trolling of this site is the purest form?

When I think of the purest form, I go back to Mummery and Tillman and the like, leading (soloing) the first difficult summits in the Alps. I have presented this to people from this site, and have added and changed things with the chart. Your suggestions are appreciated on this work in progress. grin.gif

Posted

sounds like your def of "expedition" climbing is plain ol' seige climbing and should have a link to big wall...

 

and mixed should evolve from alpine, not from ice climbing... alpine climbing has been mixed since day 1...

 

and where is speed climbing?

Posted

Where does rappelling fit in there Wayne tongue.gif.

 

Another good climbing presentation is currently on the side of boxes of Mickey Mouse Xtreme Coolers. Tells you what carabiners, Elvis leg, and jumars are. Pretty instructive picture of Mickey belaying (with helmet) too. I'll scan it when I get home, and post it. Maybe.

Posted

I disagree that mixed climbing is "the purest form of climbing" Honestly, I think if we are trying to define that then I would say taking the easiest way to the top of a mountain is the purest form, simple. Maybe not the most fun, but that's as pure as climbing something can get. Mixed climbing, on the other hand, is 95% contrived in my opinion. WHile there are lots of big mixed routes that ascend peaks to summits, I don't believe that picking some contrived line up a bit of ice and rock is very "pure." Flame away... bigdrink.giffruit.gif

Posted

wow Wayne, good job. So, is death aid a degenerative lineage?

 

I agree with Dru that mixed follows from alpine climbing. In fact, there may be some confusion about what mixed climbing is. Perhaps some younger climbers associate mixed with the single-pitch horror show that mags like to publicize, whereas others associate it with the complete bag of tricks necessary to climb a rocky summit that also sports snow and ice. Personally I always thought of mixed as one of the purest form for this particular reason: one has to do it all and it often requires a high degree of ability to bring it all together when needed. One can't do alpine mixed at a higher level without being a complete alpinist.

Posted
j_b said:

wow Wayne, good job. So, is death aid a degenerative lineage?

 

I agree with Dru that mixed follows from alpine climbing. In fact, there may be some confusion about what mixed climbing is. Perhaps some younger climbers associate mixed with the single-pitch horror show that mags like to publicize, whereas others associate it with the complete bag of tricks necessary to climb a rocky summit that also sports snow and ice. Personally I always thought of mixed as one of the purest form for this particular reason: one has to do it all and it often requires a high degree of ability to bring it all together when needed. One can't do alpine mixed at a higher level without being a complete alpinist.

 

j_b, you highlight the exact reason why I think of "mixed" as not very pure. The "mixed" I am talking about is the horror show you mention. I guess I've thought about your other definition of mixed as just plain ol' alpinism...combining all the skills to get up to a summit.

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