Dru Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 What is the oldest piece of passive pro that you own that you still use regularily? Mine would be some '91 era WC Rocks & BD Hexes. I have a full set of Titons, but Ive never actually placed them on lead. Also have, not a nut, but a late-70's or early 80's solid shafted Titanium 0.5 Friend, which I have placed all of once, while aid climbing... A #6 and #7 Tri Cam from the 80's that I have never placed on lead... Anybody still have and use Foxheads or the old symmetrical hexes drilled out with dozens of lightening holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 DFA had a friend (those were the days ... *sigh* ) when he first started climbing who inherited her uncle's old trad rack. Lots of big-ass drilled-out hexes slung with like 7-mil Perlon cord, and big T-shaped pieces (Are those the "Titons" you're referring to?), also drilled out and slung with the big cord. She also had some assorted wacky nuts on a single piece of cable with a swaged loop on the end, shaped like giant copperheads, and some bizarre old-school passive camming things (SMC?). Can't recall if we ever used any of it; maybe for setting up TR anchors or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 WTF, why isn't this showing up on the "Last 40 Posts?" Maybe this will bump it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 i think they relaunched the SMC camlocks in 92 or 93 but no one bought em. sort of like a TriCam but useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Dru said: sort of like a TriCam but useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 There are old nuts, and there are bold nuts, but there are no old & bold nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 jkrueger said: There are old nuts, and there are bold nuts, but there are no old & bold nuts. Beckey =old, bold, nuts "WHAT??" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 What are rules without exceptions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 I have a couple pretty old pieces. I inspect everything I own on a regular basis and make a decision of safety. I have a couple old nuts I use every once in a while and an old SMC Camlock I've used like twice. They are old but still very solid. It's a judgement call. Of coarse, they'll probably be retired in a few more seasons. I like to keep a few old pieces in my rack in case I have to fix one for a rappel. I've rapped off some old crusty fixed pitons(probably placed by Beckey himself, I don't know), thats probably the worst I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 I've got a BD big easy locking biner from '92 that I still use frequently. It is probably my oldest peice of gear that I still use. I also inherited some old school gear from the '70s-80's. A pair of old Jumars that I let friends borrow and some oval biners that I rack pins and stuff on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Dru, thinking of starting a museum? Do you have any really big hexes (10+ size) in your collection? I'll liberate them from underuse. They'll work great in a couple climbs I have my eye on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 No but I was reading an old article about the Climbing Nuts Museum in Corsica... the weirdest one is the "roll your own" it was a toilet paper roll type thing with long nylon webbing attached and a floating one-way webbing lock. you roll it up to be the right thickness for the crack! only problem is, if it was small, the length of attached webbing, was like 2 feet long. not so good for aid i guess. it was supposed to be really good for soft rock like in the elbesandstein. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 incidentally if you built your own #15 hex, what size cracks would it fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North_by_Northwest Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 I'm working on an art project using old beat down gear. I had a post looking for pieces to use in it once before, but nothing came from it. Does anyone have an old piece or two that they aren't going to climb on anymore? It doesn't have to be functional or even whole, I don't plan on climbing on the stuff. I'd be willing to give a few bucks for a cool looking dead piece. Maybe more for a really beat up old cam... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 There was an old thrashed friend stuck in a crack on the twin cracks route at index last time i did that route in october. Its probably still there though. Might work our art project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 [/b] They are old but still very solid. It's a judgement call. Of coarse, they'll probably be retired in a few more seasons. I like to keep a few old pieces in my rack in case I have to fix one for a rappel. Here's my logic on that one: I buy spectra 11/19 or what ever it is to replace the 1" option. I pay money and I save how much weight? Not much. At least less than a short set of stoppers. I've left gear only two or three times in 10 years. To have carried around a handful of nuts that MIGHT have fit.... I'll just leave regulars and replace them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 Here's my logic on your statement. Read more carefully. I never said I carry a whole set of old nuts around just in case I have to rap with one. I have a few in my rack, and I use them as pro too. I'm a weight freak. I don't carry what I don't have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 I have an old #10 and #11 Hexcentric that occasionally get use. Also recently inherited some of the textured tubular Clog nuts and true hex Clogs plus a couple of plastic Foxheads. I remember using those back in the late 70s when learning to lead but didn't own them. Haven't placed the inherited ones yet; unsure if I will since I have accumulated less historic protection in the interim. Oh, yes -- also have a few of the SMC passive cams. Actually use a wired one occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Anybody still have any Slider Nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 24, 2003 Author Share Posted February 24, 2003 i just bought a #8 rockcentric over the weekend and it turns out i actually need a #7 so i guess im in it for that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Now you've done it, you intractable Canadian doofus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Slider Nuts belong in everyone's clean aid bag of tricks. They I've got tons of antique hexes, nuts, tube chocks, and other goofy ass shit lying around. I don't use it, its just good for a laugh every now and then. My oldest piece of gear I still use is my flourescant speckled Boucher chalk bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 specialed said: Slider Nuts belong in everyone's clean aid bag of tricks. They Not the spring-loaded kind (i.e., Lowe Ballnuts), but the old ones which consisted of two tapers (nuts) on one sling; a picture can be seen in Chapter 5 of John Long's Climbing Anchors book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Dru said: incidentally if you built your own #15 hex, what size cracks would it fit? Trask's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 24, 2003 Author Share Posted February 24, 2003 i heard a story about dean hart and randy atkinson retreating from the first complete ffa attempt of Freeway waving a #11 hex around on a long sling to fight off a peregrine mom that was dive bombing them for coming too close to the nest. i also heard there is a place that if you send them a #11 hex will make it into a coffee cup for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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