Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

      Huge thank you to Bellingham based The American Alpine Institute for being our sole sponsor, taking care of our hosting costs,  which is our biggest cost.  @Jason_Martin  of AAI reached out to me, and really wanted to support the forums.  They have supported us in the past,  and now stepped up to support us again.  They will be our sole sponsor for 6 months.   Big time, and they are a local climbing related company to boot!  
JasonG

[TR] The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit 08/06/2022

Recommended Posts

Trip: The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit

Trip Date: 08/06/2022

Trip Report:

 

All the hardman FA glory on the site is pretty amazing this summer, but what is the blue collar climber to aspire to, you might ask?  Well, the Triad of course!  Nothing worse than low fifth (or old skool 4th) and an energetic approach separate mere mortals from the club of North Cascadian summits.  It didn't take much to convince  @Trent and @Kit to join me on an 11 hour ramble in the alpine a few weeks ago (even though Steve had already climbed it), following this excellent topo drawn by @Stefan:

 

triad.JPG.4b794cb0734c35a766fb693fcbeb7635.JPG

We started the morning watching a bear....get shot....in the meadows above the trail.  I have to say that it was a bit surprising to hear a shot ring out and watch it tumble down the slope toward us!  A first for me.  But the MBSNF is the "land of many uses" and who am I to judge?  I like meat as much as the next chossdawg.  Just maybe wear orange after 8/1, eh.

Regardless, we made good time to the pass above the trail and began the sound of music ridge run towards the Triad.  Not much to report on the traverse to the peak that isn't included in the excellent topo.  My thumb was still pretty buggered so @Trent was on the hook to lead the technical bits, which he dispatched without trouble.  Difficulties were short-lived (1 pitch) and soon we rambled our way to the highest of the three dicks (read Green Fred for the full story).  The day was perfect, without a soul around, so nice on an August Saturday in the increasingly busy North Cascades.  And it remained quiet (no other parties) until we were back on the trail, close to the car. There are still lonesome weekend day trips out there!

2022triad99407.JPG.98c45daca24a80bba45e6bec4f1b8c5d.JPG

2022triad99427.JPG.5afca777fc369824efc3f2a2c9ec5944.JPG

2022triad99453.JPG.a31c327272e04e0871497102afe1336c.JPG

2022triad99464.JPG.7812935a758a8c04758899bffe81077e.JPG

2022triad99472.JPG.cc7cfcd032e9421a13bb150922ae9e76.JPG

2022triad99484.JPG.1846ace1a336929b665f09240dee215d.JPG

2022triad99490.JPG.c552fb00e2b14d7d51d41690e270a5da.JPG

2022triad99502.JPG.33de286ca9ffca2e5db4ad3749bb85ab.JPG

2022triad99504.JPG.accac093a834d54a6907faa8a8b81e48.JPG

2022triad99516.JPG.b8bde9c8e75a930ccd00e06c0b9f95f1.JPG

2022triad99526.JPG.1d27b6270709dafa2000bde08a5b00c7.JPG

2022triad99544.JPG.2284b7a04538f1c60528ff840614a2ba.JPG

2022triad99570.JPG.4c49629aea54f37c2d03af648c8ec701.JPG

2022triad99597.JPG.6d4b9601308583f8372dd0e7cae6fcfe.JPG

2022triad99606.JPG.0000bcfe6efe034d23d15e808a015bf2.JPG

2022triad99614.JPG.1e02a04562b3fb10997ac490fa51846f.JPG

 

Gear Notes:
Crampons, helmet, axe, light 60m rope, very small rack if you want to belay 4th class bits.

Approach Notes:
Sibley Creek Trail. Watch out for bear hunters!

  • Like 7
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great trip report and pictures.  There is still solitude to be had out in the North Cascades for sure.  If you think outside the box and do some lesser known approaches and peaks, the majority of your company will be mosquitoes and biting flies.  Black Bear season is in full swing right now, bright clothing and a flute would be a good idea.  How many people, outside of Russians, have ever seen a bear playing a flute?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw a group of guys loaded up with huge packs and rifles at the Tubal Cain trailhead. Can’t imagine them actually coming across any wildlife with all the people in that vicinity.

I’ve tried bear it isn’t for me. Give me moose meat any day. Venison (the back strap) after that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, olyclimber said:

I’ve tried bear it isn’t for me.

I think it can depend on the bear.  I've had some excellent bear..... but you're not alone, so maybe I got lucky?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the stunning pics to remind me of one of the most beautiful places I have been in the Cascades (or anywhere else). Got to get back there. 

I don't live by the rule "If you wouldn't kill it, you shouldn't eat it." but I do find the notion of killing a warm-blooded beast in that environment disturbing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the TR, bringing back memories of one of my earliest Cascades adventures.  Between the high start and the Sibley Ridge heather knife-edge, The Triad has a very high reward-to-effort ratio, even if you skip the Lesser Dicks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, what a conincidence: @pugetgold and I climbed The Triad yesterday. I don't think it gets climbed very often. When you posted this report we were camping near the trailhead. That topo would have been very useful but we managed to piece the route together from various trip reports.

IMG_9584.jpg.66f9b434893c532bf5bcc0635442e168.jpg

Your photos are terrific. There's quite a bit less snow now and there's some wildfire haze around.

 

  • Snaffled 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woah, what a way to start the morning!

Great photos, as usual. Love a good ridge run and some easy rock, will have to add this to my list :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/2/2022 at 6:09 PM, sugiyama_ss said:

I don't think it gets climbed very often.

I would tend to agree, though we did see some tracks in the snow from a few days prior on our trip.  Glad you had a good trip!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha, I saw 'The Triad' and was like: who goes there... Oh yeah, Jason. 

Thanks for the report, I've wanted to go there for years.

  • LMAO 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbed the East Triad last week and found an old Blackberry phone right on the summit in a leather case- happy to return it to the owner!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/11/2022 at 2:40 PM, Jim23 said:

Climbed the East Triad last week and found an old Blackberry phone right on the summit in a leather case- happy to return it to the owner!

Uhhhhh, this might be mine!  I lost a blackberry somewhere on the East Triad about 10 years ago!  I would love to get it back just for posterity.

Edit, lost on 10/26/08 to be exact.  It was a Blackberry Pearl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you love something, let it go. If it comes back to you, its yours forever!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×