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[TR] The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit 08/06/2022


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Trip: The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit

Trip Date: 08/06/2022

Trip Report:


All the hardman FA glory on the site is pretty amazing this summer, but what is the blue collar climber to aspire to, you might ask?  Well, the Triad of course!  Nothing worse than low fifth (or old skool 4th) and an energetic approach separate mere mortals from the club of North Cascadian summits.  It didn't take much to convince  @Trent and @Kit to join me on an 11 hour ramble in the alpine a few weeks ago (even though Steve had already climbed it), following this excellent topo drawn by @Stefan:



We started the morning watching a bear....get shot....in the meadows above the trail.  I have to say that it was a bit surprising to hear a shot ring out and watch it tumble down the slope toward us!  A first for me.  But the MBSNF is the "land of many uses" and who am I to judge?  I like meat as much as the next chossdawg.  Just maybe wear orange after 8/1, eh.

Regardless, we made good time to the pass above the trail and began the sound of music ridge run towards the Triad.  Not much to report on the traverse to the peak that isn't included in the excellent topo.  My thumb was still pretty buggered so @Trent was on the hook to lead the technical bits, which he dispatched without trouble.  Difficulties were short-lived (1 pitch) and soon we rambled our way to the highest of the three dicks (read Green Fred for the full story).  The day was perfect, without a soul around, so nice on an August Saturday in the increasingly busy North Cascades.  And it remained quiet (no other parties) until we were back on the trail, close to the car. There are still lonesome weekend day trips out there!


















Gear Notes:
Crampons, helmet, axe, light 60m rope, very small rack if you want to belay 4th class bits.

Approach Notes:
Sibley Creek Trail. Watch out for bear hunters!

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Great trip report and pictures.  There is still solitude to be had out in the North Cascades for sure.  If you think outside the box and do some lesser known approaches and peaks, the majority of your company will be mosquitoes and biting flies.  Black Bear season is in full swing right now, bright clothing and a flute would be a good idea.  How many people, outside of Russians, have ever seen a bear playing a flute?

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Thanks for the stunning pics to remind me of one of the most beautiful places I have been in the Cascades (or anywhere else). Got to get back there. 

I don't live by the rule "If you wouldn't kill it, you shouldn't eat it." but I do find the notion of killing a warm-blooded beast in that environment disturbing.

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Wow, what a conincidence: @pugetgold and I climbed The Triad yesterday. I don't think it gets climbed very often. When you posted this report we were camping near the trailhead. That topo would have been very useful but we managed to piece the route together from various trip reports.


Your photos are terrific. There's quite a bit less snow now and there's some wildfire haze around.


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On 9/11/2022 at 2:40 PM, Jim23 said:

Climbed the East Triad last week and found an old Blackberry phone right on the summit in a leather case- happy to return it to the owner!

Uhhhhh, this might be mine!  I lost a blackberry somewhere on the East Triad about 10 years ago!  I would love to get it back just for posterity.

Edit, lost on 10/26/08 to be exact.  It was a Blackberry Pearl.

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