Off_White Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I got to go climbing in my front yard yesterday, my forearms are still a little pumped. It felt great to turn off the computer and actually go climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Blech!  <snip>  Today though I will heartily attempt to go out to The Rock. I will work on JayB's "Over the Rainbow" problem. WTF is up with that JayB, what's the beta getting from the 3rd to 4th hold? I can't figure that shit out.  <snip>  meekly yours  Chuck  Blech indeed. Ker-pflooey even. That rainbow thing is hard isn't it! The only way I have seen it done is with a match on the 3rd and what looked like a running jump into a dyno to the 4th  Actually, a big part of it is to find the right little nubbins and pockets for the feet, while hanging on to the 3rd for dear life. Your mileage will vary with your wingspan, of course.  Strong fingers to you chucK You can do it, you know you can! Just mime the sequence for awhile, think of Dwayner, and it will go for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 TG- Wanna share some beta on where you were? I pass through that area a few times a year and it makes a perfect rest spot to break up the drive. Â About 4 miles east of the Dalles is a minor truck pullout with a green gate. So it's safe to park as long as you want. Hike 1/3 of a mile farther and head up the hill. There are several spires and plenty stuff to climb around on. I bet you could even find routes more than one pitch. I found a couple of weatherd slings on the top of a couple spires, so I'm sure that people climb there occasionally. The walls are mostly north facing so there is a bit of moss around but there is a lot of rock. Â The coolest thing is that there are fine grained dunes at the top and down one chute there is a long, angle of repose sand flow, which allows some really high, safe landing bouldering. The east facing wall next to the sand flow has plenty of nice cracks. Friday, the sand was a bit wet and simi frozen so I couldn't stretch it out as far as I would have liked, but I'll be back when the thumb recovers. Â There is one very large, very vertical, free standing spire that looks like the true plum of the area. It is almost a half size version of the Totem Pole. It looked like a free ascent would be at a pretty high standard. Â Cheers - TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 i went to boulder along some of that columbia basalt once, a few miles W of the dalles while driving back from smiff. there was a stinky hobo jungle at the bottom and i almost pitched onto some wino sleeping in a pile of broken glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I got to go climbing in my front yard yesterday, my forearms are still a little pumped. It felt great to turn off the computer and actually go climbing. Â Turn off the computer and what?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 look pictures! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=123456&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 This section might me tough to lieback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 Turn off the computer and what?! Â Climbing. I am doing that now. UW Rock, JayB's sandbag. I sugges all of you in greater Seattle area do the same. Woo Hoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 This section might me tough to lieback  just push that body away from the wall a bit and perfect lieback position!!!  this comin' from a guy who laybacked ALL of Hypertension jamming? wha tha? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 on battered sanmich: I've climbed it three times and have liebacked/jam a little on the bottom then after the ratty sling go into jam for 10 feet and then chimney the thing. One of my favorite pitches at Index. I was wondering if any of you guys had done rattletale? I lead it three years ago and the guy who followed liebacked THE whole lower section. And then claimed he would do the same on lead! Just wonderin' what you thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 (edited) Today though I will heartily attempt to go out to The Rock. I will work on JayB's "Over the Rainbow" problem. WTF is up with that JayB, what's the beta getting from the 3rd to 4th hold? I can't figure that shit out. Â After my momentary triumph I've been shut down while trying to move from the fourth to the fifth hold. Argh! Anyway, grab onto the top of the third hold with your right hand, then cross your left hand underneath your right arm to gain the fourth hold. It's easier if you keep your weight low and your chest facing the wall. I matched on the fourth hold, gained a nubbin right of the crack with my right foot, then lunged for the last hold when I got it. Â I'm heading over there tonight at about 6:30 or so to get a bit o' bouldering in before the rain rolls in tomorrow.... Â Make that 5:30 - introduce yourself if you're heading over there. I'll the one flailing in a blue shirt... Edited February 14, 2003 by JayB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 What's the Over the Rainbow problem? JayB showed me a four-move problem one time that had me stumped for a while at the third move. Maybe he's sandbaggin' both of us the same way. Â Maybe I'll borrow my room-mate's digital camera and take photos of a couple of walls, highlight problems, and post them here so all can share in the fun. There's a bunch of problems out there that have been absolutely kicking my ass out there that I'd love to get some beta on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 klar that thing is perfect cupped hands. laybackng it would be ridiculous. Â i think laybacking is dumb and try to do it as little as possible. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Agreed about liebacking with you erik, 100%. Scary, hard to place pro, blah blah. But I do use it on ocassion. first 10 feet of toxic shock? B-line in cochise( which I know chucK has climbed) I don't like it, but I do use it sometimes. I DO pity the fool that liebacks the infamous section of godzilla, like I did ther first time 10 years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Rattletale. Definately good jamming on that. I can't quite understand liebacking either. I guess it's for people who don't know how to jam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 technique of no technique is used when unable to jam or when wanting to move quickly thru a section where one does not need to place pro eg. when climbing offwidths on TR or other foolishness. Â and if you do a Google Image search for Lieback crack look what you find...scott'teryx!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 I agree that it is difficult to place pro in the crack when using lieback technique, but it is a bit of an overstatement to suggest that one should never do it when on lead. I certainly use lieback technique more when I am following than when leading but, as Dru said, it can be easier and quicker than jamming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Yeah, I think its another tool to use climbing. Another section at index I lieback: the last 10 or so feet on the first part of the first pitch of japanesse gardens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 Did some liebacking at the Rock today. Some jamming too.  You anti-liebackers are funny. Sounds like gym climbing. "Dude nice send but the lieback is out, you have to jam"  It'd be fun to watch you guys jam an arete  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth_Man Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 You guys already gave it away, and it looks like my kind of crack climbing. I love to grovel and use my whole body in a crack. So where's the trail up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 On the lower part I finally got up the one section by putting a cam in as high as I could reach then liebacking upto where I could get back into it just below the top part. It just felt so insecure I didn't like it. At the top part I climbed a lot of that like a chimney. Still too big for my hands but I did get a could arm bars in. I guess I'll just keep thrashing about in offwidths until I get a little stronger and figure it out. Thanks. Â On Rattletale, I followed it laybacking the whole way. I would not want to lead it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 This section might me tough to lieback  That's the easiest part of that climb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 You guys already gave it away, and it looks like my kind of crack climbing. I love to grovel and use my whole body in a crack. So where's the trail up there? Â Here's the trail "map". Battered Sandwhich is at Private Idaho. Doesn't look like the Private Idaho topo is on that website. If you go to the far right of the crag, there is a nice dihedral/RFC with a bolted arete on it's right. Those are Senior Citizens in Space (5.7) and Spineless (5.10d++), respectively. The next weakness over to the left has Battered Sandwhich (5.9) on the right and Istanbul (5.9) on the left, both of which you may like given your mentioned preference for wide-crack grovelling. Further over left is a little gem called Magic Fern (5.9), recognizable by the splitter flared OW crack at midheight. Â You can walk off from the top by heading up through the forest about 20 feet to where you'll come to a trail. Follow the trail right just a little ways to where it winds it's way down in a slot behind a big slabby rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 CHUCK AND SLOTH Â THERE ARE NEW CHAINS ON TOP OF SCIS AND BS Â THERE IS ALSO WEBBING NOW ONTOP OF MAGIC FERN/ISTANBUL, THOUGH I DONT THINK THERE ARE RINGS. Â WALK DOWN THE TRAIN TRACKS HEADING EAT FROM PARKING LOT AND CROSS THE WOOD FOOT BRIDGE. WALK UP HILL GOING RIGHT ANYTIME THERE IS A TRAIL. THIS OCCURS TWICE. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth_Man Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 That sounds like an excellent crag. Three offwidths on one crag? Sweet. Man I wish there wasn't rain coming in. Maybe I'll just aid something tommorow. Â Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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